[Bran96]

I was directed to Nissan forms to ask what the normal drain should be from the battery when the car is fully off? I’m getting 0.114 but unplugged the 3 part fuse ABS SOL, ABS MTR, POWER Window. Which brought it down to about 0.05.
I unplugged all the wires in the two front doors and still no change.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wolfgang Huang]

From 0.114A to 0.5A is "brought UP", or perhaps, you meant 0.05A?

 

[Bran96]

Sorry typo it goes down to 0.05

 

[I need coffee]

The two 30 amp fuses that protect each of the ABS motor and solenoid circuits are separate from the power window circuit so I would do the parasitic draw test again and disconnect the ABS Control Module to see if the current draw drops again. If so, that would point to the ABS module as the problem. If not, then the problem is somewhere on the circuit(s) that are protected by the 50 amp F fuse.

Let us know what you find.

 

[Bran96]

[deleted message]

 

[Bran96]

The two 30 amp fuses that protect each of the ABS motor and solenoid circuits are separate from the power window circuit so I would do the parasitic draw test again and disconnect the ABS Control Module to see if the current draw drops again. If so, that would point to the ABS module as the problem. If not, then the problem is somewhere on the circuit(s) that are protected by the 50 amp F fuse.

Let us know what you find.

View attachment 60423

Do you know of a video of how to disconnect it? I think I found it but looks like it’s on the far back of the passenger side under the hood and there’s a large plug

 

[PaulDay]

The two 30 amp fuses that protect each of the ABS motor and solenoid circuits are separate from the power window circuit so I would do the parasitic draw test again and disconnect the ABS Control Module to see if the current draw drops again. If so, that would point to the ABS module as the problem. If not, then the problem is somewhere on the circuit(s) that are protected by the 50 amp F fuse.

Let us know what you find.

View attachment 60423

Just an FYI, Nissan had issues with the ABS modules, prompting a recall and replacement on some productions. The module would leak, causing a short on the internal circuit board creating a fire hazard. The car did not need to be running for the fire to occur. Several fires were reported.

If the issue is traced to the ABS, contact Nissan to see if there's some kind of warranty, based on the production number stamped on the ABS unit.

Replace it no matter what, if that's the source of the battery drainage.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[I need coffee]

The ABS module uses a lever style connector so pulling the lever all the way should release it (looks like there may be a locking mechanism that you need to depress while pulling the lever).

You can check the NHTSA website to see if your car is subject to any recalls (use your VIN): https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

 

[Bran96]

The ABS module uses a lever style connector so pulling the lever all the way should release it (looks like there may be a locking mechanism that you need to depress while pulling the lever).

You can check the NHTSA website to see if your car is subject to any recalls (use your VIN): https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

View attachment 60425

Thank you sadly have to do all this work outside of my garage but once I get to it and see if unplugging resolved the issue I’ll return to let you know. Hopefully this week depending on weather.

my concern would be if it is the abs module. Am I able to buy one on eBay that comes preprogrammed to my vehicle?

 

[I need coffee]

When replacing the ABS control unit, the steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated so you'll need to use a scan tool capable of this. If AWD (you never specified year/type of your car) then the decel G sensor also needs to be recalibrated.

The factory service manual for your car can be downloaded here (see "Brake Control System" section): https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

 

[Bran96]

When replacing the ABS control unit, the steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated so you'll need to use a scan tool capable of this. If AWD (you never specified year/type of your car) then the decel G sensor also needs to be recalibrated.

The factory service manual for your car can be downloaded here (see "Brake Control System" section): https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

Oh sorry it’s a 2007 Nissan Murano SL AWD

 

[Bran96]

The ABS module uses a lever style connector so pulling the lever all the way should release it (looks like there may be a locking mechanism that you need to depress while pulling the lever).

You can check the NHTSA website to see if your car is subject to any recalls (use your VIN): https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

View attachment 60425

So I pulled out the abs module power and it’s still drawing power I’ll attach a video link on YouTube because I can’t post videos on here.

 

[I need coffee]

O.K. Well, this confirms that it isn't the ABS module so the draw is on the F fuse circuit. After checking all the wiring diagrams for the components on that circuit it appears to be the fuse that protects the main power supply to the BCM so my next move would be to disconnect the BCM and see if the draw drops.

 

[Bran96]

O.K. Well, this confirms that it isn't the ABS module so the draw is on the F fuse circuit. After checking all the wiring diagrams for the components on that circuit it appears to be the fuse that protects the main power supply to the BCM so my next move would be to disconnect the BCM and see if the draw drops.

View attachment 60455


View attachment 60457

Thank you for your help. I’ll take a look at that and let you know what happens.

 

[Bran96]

O.K. Well, this confirms that it isn't the ABS module so the draw is on the F fuse circuit. After checking all the wiring diagrams for the components on that circuit it appears to be the fuse that protects the main power supply to the BCM so my next move would be to disconnect the BCM and see if the draw drops.

View attachment 60455


View attachment 60457

Do I need to unplug all 3 plugs for the bcm or just to one that is closest going up and down? If just that one looks like it had no change. If I need to unplug the whole unit let me know. Thank you very much for helping me solve this issue.

 

[Bran96]

Okay I fully unplugged the BCM and the draw is now down to 0.010mA I even plugged the ABS Module back in and it’s staying at 0.009mA - 0.010mA. Does this mean I need to replace my BCM? I can’t post videos so I’ll link the a YouTube video I posted of it just to give you a better view of everything. Also the fuse in with BCM unplugged it’s down to the 0.009mA - 0.010mA range instead of 0.090 - 0.100mA.

O.K. Well, this confirms that it isn't the ABS module so the draw is on the F fuse circuit. After checking all the wiring diagrams for the components on that circuit it appears to be the fuse that protects the main power supply to the BCM so my next move would be to disconnect the BCM and see if the draw drops.

View attachment 60455


View attachment 60457

 

[I need coffee]

Does this mean I need to replace my BCM?

Unfortunately, it looks like this is where it's heading. The power feed to the BCM that goes through the 50 amp fuse is the large white/black wire on the connector circled in the picture below. Plug all the BCM connectors back in and do the draw test again, but only unplug that connector. This is just to verify that it's this circuit where the draw is coming from.

 

[Bran96]

(message deleted)

 

[Bran96]

Replugged it back in hooked the multimeter back up and the draw was around 0.085A. Unplugged the wire you circled on the BCM and the draw is now down to 0.010A

Unfortunately, it looks like this is where it's heading. The power feed to the BCM that goes through the 50 amp fuse is the large white/black wire on the connector circled in the picture below. Plug all the BCM connectors back in and do the draw test again, but only unplug that connector. This is just to verify that it's this circuit where the draw is coming from.

View attachment 60465

 

[deeman]

0.0085A is on the upper range of an acceptable parasitic draw. Not ideal but in light of the age of the vehicle and the cost of a BCM replacement, may be this is something you can live with? If you drive your vehicle on a regular basis, you shouldn't experience any issue as long as your battery is healthy. When you leave your vehicle parked for an extended period of time, may be hook up a trickle charger to the battery is a viable solution. IMHO.