:confused.. I hope I'll be able to do this.. It doesn't look too hard.. I'll give it a try.. Do I need anything else to make this work?
I'll print is out and show it to some friends.. What is the DRL?

 

DRL is the addition of Daytime running lights left out in the US car.

 

Ekaxel...

you are the man

Thanks for the diagram. I will also try that, along with Jack.

Jack, i read your email to me.
Do you happen to have the factory maintenance manual?
I am thinking of scanning some of the page (per your request in the email), but if you already have it, i will just quote the page #

 

I goofed and left the fuses out. Needs a 15 amp fuse in each battery feed, just like the original.

 

I don't have the manual in question.. I would appreciate so much if you could send me the appropriate pages either via e-mail or this web site..
How did you come by getting this manual and where ,if possible, can i purchase one.. thank you so much..I really really appreciate the help.. I owe you guys..

 

Been said before - I recommend soldering all connections. Don't use those plastic squeeze connectors. They are notoriously unreliable.

 

Here is the hack. All wiring accessible in the EPDM harness (RH side of engine compartment). Fuses 15A

You might be able to acheive what you want with the addition of one diode in the right spot....

 

I agree with the theory, but in order to do this, you must disassemble and modify the EPDM board. A little more risky in terms of an EPDM failure/warranty issue.
I think I would do it.

 

jack


Here's how to obtain the service manual . . .

Manual

 

Re: Service Manual. Download is only practical if you have a broadband connection.

 

ekaxel.. could you confirm my observation..

Good man Sugar! Wiring the same computer output different.

Do you concure with my theory explaining jack's lost-of-hi-beam?
(since you retrofited DRl to Mo, so i guess you are the healidhgt-wiring-expert here

 

You are absolutely right. Jaak's solution is simpler, mine less risky. I personally would use Jaak's, but for a lot of folks, it would be tough.

 

More tech stuff, concerns:
Jaak's method
1. Finding the right relay terminals once you have dissasembled the EPDM. Note: Relays are soldered in, so you have to do it on the bottom of the board.

Two of the four relay terminals are battery- should be big traces. Easy to spot
Third trace is the output to the fuse. Also a big trace -easy to spot.

The fourth terminal is the output of the processor. Ground signal line. Should be a small trace. This is the one you want.
So far so good.
Now the bad news: you will be putting a double load on the High beam output. Has to pull two relay coils instead of one. Possibility of frying that output. Big coin repair -no warranty.
If both the high and low beam relays are energized at the same time on a conventional headlight vehicle (which is what you are forcing), this is a no-no. May (and I emphazize MAY) set an error code in the diagnostic computer.
Have I scared you off this one yet??

 

::13: Now I am scared..
Where is the EPDM. and will i be able to remove the board off the car? What kind of resistor (ohm's) or connection will I have make to do this. I will take some pictures so i can share what i am doing.. this should be fun!
thanks
PS.. I really enjoy this site.. Great job!:4:

 

HID cut outlines

As per requested. Picture of the cut outlines of HID Headlights

 

Here are some of the pictures of where the Fuses are and (relays??) might be for the Headlight.. I would like to know if i am on the right track to finding the relay in question.

 

HID installed , 8500K bulds

My Murano SL 04 with the NEW HID's 8500K bulbs.. Still no High beams, :2:

 

You do have a picture of the EPDM. If I were you, I wouldn't touch it without a shop manual. (and some basic knowledge of auto electronics and electronic repair).
Please see my PM

 

I agree, while it's simpler in theory to drop in a diode, it's not for those that aren't comfortable with electronics.

As far as dealing with the drivers and the relays, this could be done before the drivers which would solve the current sink concerns.

And yes, it would keep the low beams on, when going to the high beams, but that's the point of the modification when going to HID's.

For most, doing the external relays would be easier and less risky. If you cook your module there, you'd have to pull out that mod, just the same as the diode mod, before you'd have a chance at a warranty claim.

 

Drivers are part of the computer IC inside the EPDM, controlled by software. You can't get at them.

 

Well that's annoying... Kind of stupid too as a relay problem will take it out. I guess they figure anything goes wrong with it they trash it and make you buy a new one.

 

Ekaxel, JAck and Jaak, some more questions...

First question for ekaxel:
------------------------------

Now the bad news: you will be putting a double load on the High beam output. Has to pull two relay coils instead of one. Possibility of frying that output. Big coin repair -no warranty.
....
Have I scared you off this one yet??

> "You will be putting a double load on the High beam output."
Is this true if we do either the external-relay-method (ekaxel's way) or the internal-relay (jaak's)? Sorry i am not too good in electronics.

>"If both the high and low beam relays are energized at the same time on a conventional headlight vehicle (which is what you are forcing), this is a no-no"
This will only happen with jaak's method right?

I am thinking of doing the external relay method per ekaxel's

Question for Jaak:
------------------
>"As far as dealing with the drivers and the relays, this could be done before the drivers which would solve the current sink concerns."
What did you mean by *done before the drivers hence solve the current sink problem*?
Sorry, I am not too good with electronics. It has been quite a while

 

1. external relays do not put any load on the EPDM drivers.
2. both internal relays energized only with Jaak's mod
3. I told Jaak in a PM that the drivers were an integral part of the EPDM computer chip and were not accessible.

 

This could also be acheived with a pair of diodes off the existing relays, driving an outboard relay, which would keep the parts count down, work and sidestep any issues with the module modification. It also relieves the relays of any current issues.

The high beam relay would still trip the shutter and the two diodes, one from high and low, would feed the relay that powers the HID's.

Keeps it simple.

 

I replaced my halogen headlight with a pair of oem hid HEADLIGHT

including the d2s xenon bulb last weekend.
Took me around 2.5 hrs with all the proper tools
and some tips from Jack (who did this retrofit 3 weeks ahead of me)

IT WORKS!

Overall, i think this is a better 'retrofit' for halogen murano then using aftermarket HID kit (rebased 9007 bulb base).
FYI, oem healdight (and hid bulb) is obtainable from ebay for around 50% or even less than dealer price.

Me and Jack are in the process of figuring the hi-beam (see earlier posts under this same thread). It turns out that the IPDM CPU of halogen murano are programed by FUJI-san ( ! ) in a slightly different way than HID muranos. But a simple relay circuit will solve this problem. I will post picture sometimes this coming weekend, once the relay is installed and hi-beam is set.

Let me say it one more time:

"Halogen to OEM HID system for murano DOES WORK".