Update to say it's uncomon for it to stay that way for a long period of time.

 

Have your alternator and battery load tested. When the voltage is marginal today's computer controlled cars start acting up.

Also check and clean the ground connections under the battery and at the CVT. Replace the negative battery terminal cable if it looks like it's been exposed to years of battery terminal corrosion, it will be compromised internally...

 

When the voltage is marginal today's computer controlled cars start acting up..

-This is a very factual statement. -

I have a new alt and battery but I've also had a good looking cable on another car corroded beneath the shield. It was on the positive side if i remember correctly. This is not a daily driver, and this issue has been happining for almost 1 year.

On load testing the battery, many places that do this service for free are quick to say "yep you need a new battery but it doesn't help the situation.

I am thankful for the reply and will check my battery cables. and load test the battery.


-on another note, am i correct that the computer initializes the alt rather than it always supplying 14 or so volts when the car is running?

 

I'm not big on modifing competer controlld devices on my car, especially if under warranty. Mine has 190,000 miles and is no longer under warranty.
But someone has decided to convert their alt back to always charging when the car is running. They say it's helpful if your car is not a dayly driver.

(This video will show you how to disable the Ecm Control function of the Alternator. By doing this the Alternator will no longer be controlled by the Ecm and run all the time. A Ecm controlled charging system is intended to help with Mpg. So this could affect your Mpg if performed ) it's on Utube.

I've still got to do a losd test and other troubleshooting, but am glad someone else doesnt like the computer turning off the alt to save some gas.

 

The ECM will adjust the alternator's output to both keep the battery charged, and to meet to current voltage requirements.

IMO, disconnecting the alternator from its computer control will destroy your battery over time...and maybe other stuff...

 

disconnecting the alternator from its computer control will destroy your battery over time...and maybe other stuff...

Not sure how that would affact anything unless the alt is way overcharging.

I'm currently working on my truck. It had a bad oil leak and it turned out to be a corner of the valve cover broken off in the back. Got it fixed so I can go to work tomorrow without smoke coming out from under the hood.

Just wanted to post this issue in case someone has experienced it on their MO, and what they may have done to correct it.

I will update as I do things to try and remedy this strange issue on my Murano.

 

The 1st generation Murano doesn't have ECM control of the charging system--this didn't occur until the 2nd generation. So, it's just the plain old voltage regulator in the alternator that's controlling the output.

The symptoms reported in the 1st post is reminiscent of the combination meter's fail-safe mode. If ground issues have been ruled out then I'd probably be looking at the A/C Amp or combination meter itself.

 

I think you may be the Murano expert i need.

Any more info you could point me toward would be great.

Meanwhile im gonna try to organise a way to diagnose what you have indicated.

Thanks!

 

I have several vehicles that need minor work. I can't thank you enough to put me on the right track with the combination meter's fail-safe mode. I may not jump on it soon, but you have nailed the issue.

I'll try and figure a way to diagnose this unique problem, but I never knew this was even a thing.

Thanks !

(edited to say I was told about this once already on this very forum)

 

As already stated this issue started almost 1 year ago. The 1st indication was when i started it up the fuel guage read empty although i new it was full. Then while driving noticed the other weird dash indications. They would come and go for no apparent reason. Fast forward to about 1 month ago and i couldnt put it in reverse/drive. Had to research the overide button and have been using a piece of wire to push down the overide button.

I dont think these two issues have anything in comon. Just another thing i need to fix. I like the Murano but it has had an unusually large amout of issues during it's lifetime -- YES I BOUGHT IT USED -- 3rd owner. My daughter bought it from the original owner, a lady in her mid 40's. ( i only added the " bought used" because i think a certain poster creates a zen diagram of New vs Used -

 

As already stated this issue started almost 1 year ago. The 1st indication was when i started it up the fuel guage read empty although i new it was full. Then while driving noticed the other weird dash indications. They would come and go for no apparent reason. Fast forward to about 1 month ago and i couldnt put it in reverse/drive. Had to research the overide button and have been using a piece of wire to push down the overide button.

I dont think these two issues have anything in comon. Just another thing i need to fix. I like the Murano but it has had an unusually large amout of issues during it's lifetime -- YES I BOUGHT IT USED -- 3rd owner. My daughter bought it from the original owner, a lady in her mid 40's. ( i only added the " bought used" because i think a certain poster creates a zen diagram of New vs Used -

None of your posts indicate that you have had the codes read on this vehicle. I suggest that should be your starting point.

 

I have at least 1 quality code reader. I'll certainly check them out as a good starting point.

Love the help guys!

 

Bought a new/old snapper lawn mower.

 

Sep 4, 2022

Wow, been reading the service manual on the DRIVER INFORMATION SYSTEM /
unified meter control unit
unified meter and A/C amp
lots of test procedures and good info. - I hate intermittent issues!

That is from a thread i started on this site but didn't take it to a resolution.

The codes I'm getting are P1273 and P1283 - not unusual for a murano without cats. So it looks like I need to set aside more time to diagnose this issue or hand this car off to someone who can. I like it, but but don't drive it enough to really justify the insurance. Looks like it's on me.

 

Bumping for a tiny bit more info. I replaced the valve covers. Fixed an anoying oil leak. Went thru the drive thru and it started overheating. Long story short my engine fans do not come on at any time. Not when hot not with AC on.

 

The cooling fans are not running at all.

PS to the mods - I may have two threads on this and probably need to delete one of them......sorry.

No codes are showing at this time. P1273 and P1283 will eventually return.

 

I can't seem to put the ipdm in test mode. My door switch in in the forward hinged area but is working because it will show the door ajar if not closed. Tried 3 times to put it in test mode without any luck.

You mean the Auto Active test outlined in the PDF attachment, correct? Is the door ajar warning light flashing consistent with every time you press/release the button (i.e. not an intermittent connection problem inside the switch)?

 

My left brake light is out on back. The blinker works but i have not replaced the brake light on the drivers side.

--although when it goes into the hiccup mode of -

rpm guage, fuel guage stops working and the SLP, VDC OFF comes on, the light iluminating P R N D goes dark, ABS and Brake light comes on, the blinkers will not work when in this condition.

- the blinkes don't work, then it hiccups and works....but no cooling fans at any time. Vehicle hot or with A/C on.

No more updates from me unless i do some more troublshooting. - Thanks -

 

Well i may need new cooling fan assembly. I tested at the fan connectors and had power & ground after heating up and AC on. the driverside fan is worse than the passenger side. I got both to spin but the drivers side is struggling. It's got a struggling sound to it and the connector has a slight bit of corrosion.

But that another issue. I may be able to set aside some more time this weekend.

 

Well i may need new cooling fan assembly. I tested at the fan connectors and had power & ground after heating up and AC on. the driverside fan is worse than the passenger side. I got both to spin but the drivers side is struggling. It's got a struggling sound to it and the connector has a slight bit of corrosion.

But that another issue. I may be able to set aside some more time this weekend.

I'd like a youtube or an instruction sheet on how to remove the

"A/C Amplifier Climate Control BCM ECU Chassis Computer" or what ever the proper name is.

It's under the radio? i think?

I've checked fuses relays and have both brake light switches removed from their location and taped in the off position so my brake lights are not activated.....then just went ahead and removed the battery for a deep charge.

I'm gonna look for myself, just if someone has a link.....
I probably need to drive this car more often. or sell it to a good mechanic, but dang i've put alot of sweat ito it over time.

I don't know about a video, but the procedure to remove the A/C Auto Amp is likely in the section of the service manual that deals with HVAC Control.

After some checking, it looks like the BCM commands the IPDM to do the Auto Active Test so if the front door switch is fine, then there's some kind of communication problem between the BCM and IPDM. You say your blinkers don't work on the dash when the gauge issue is acting up. Did you ever confirm if the turn signal lamps are still working on the outside of the car when the dash lights don't work? If the exterior turn signal lamps are not working then there may be something wrong with the BCM.

You said you have a "quality" code reader. What's the brand and model number? Have you ever pulled a comm error (U code)?

 

confirm if the turn signal lamps are still working on the outside of the car when the dash lights don't work

Yes. They work outside even tho the dash is in hiccup mode. My daughter is over this weekend and i got her to help me check.

I retried initializing the active test by shutting my dr side door 10 times. the interrior light blinked on and off with the door, but still no luck. I printed out the instructions to make sure i din the ignition on/off/on properly

My code reader i'm using is cheap. ANCEL AD310. My laptop with a better program is displaced at the moment.

I have 1 of the brake pedal switches I need to do a make - break test on. may be the ascd? switch.

about to leave for work in a minute. Gonna try to put some time into the Morano this weekend. I may go to local pullapart to practice removing some items befor i try on mine.

Thanks for your help - I'm drinking some german coffee this morning, from ALDI's. Pretty good!

 

I'm drinking some german coffee this morning, from ALDI's. Pretty good!

I like the German Coffee they sell at ALDI's grocery store.

I do appreciate the help. Had a hard but good day at work. Goodnight everyone.

 

Just ordered a set of cooling fans. Lifetime warranty. Gonna go ahead and remove the ac amp. Looks very simple after watching a youtube on Murano radio removal. Still have the battery diconnected to check my two brake light switches i have dangling below the brake pedal.
Can't understand the issues that it seems resolutely determined to agrivate me with. Not gonna let it!

 

The A/C amp has been removed before. It had 1 of the 5 screws holding the circut board in it's plastic case gone. It also has a red mark on it as if it's been replaced/repaired at an earlier time in this cars life. Had to be the original owner as my daughter or I havent ever had it looked at.

The local pull a part yard has two "05's one "06 and one "07 in the yard. May see what they look like. Not too aufull hot outside...........

Battery's inside on deep charge..........

 

It also has a red mark on it

The mark is from QC, performed during assembly verifying position and connections. Color usually designates the inspector on that assembly line.

Have a good day.

 

I got some parts.

 

About 140.00 worth. Two "Radio assembly's w/Heater control" 39.00 ea. The fan assembly was already removed so i got it along with the ash tray (my door doesnt stay shut) - The plug in fuse link that connects to the positive battery post, another cap for my shifter release button (not sure if i lost mine) and a 3rd "heater control" from a 2006. - no charge-

The "heater control" is the A/C amp. So i got 3 of those. two from an '05 and one from an '06. total came to $139.11 so hopefully i can get something fixed and take a part or two back for refund within 30 days.

I think the guy checking me out just charged the lowest amount as we both wanted to be somewhere else today.

I've already ordered a new set of fans so I'll probably take these back or keep for a spare.

So.........maybe by tomorrow? I'll at least know something more!

 

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This is the two brake pedal switches i got. One is N/O - white connector the other is N/C the brown connector. I also learned how to unplug them without standing on my head under the steering wheel.

Just press the tab and pull.

Now i'll just replace both of mine.

 

The one above with the white connector is for a later model than my '05 but is still a N/C switch, just a smaller connector.

To remove them from their location turn counter clockwise.

You need to install with the brake pedal full up. Insert the switch as far as it will go and turn clockwise to lock in place. I did the top one 1st then the bottom, bottom one didnt need to go as far in as the top one. Looks like it is possible to instal a good switch improperly if you don't use proper technique.

 

Just popped my 1st beer. Not a bud light, but that's OK if you enjoy it.