Re: 2007 murano sl awd rattle in the gate

I have a new 2007 murano wich I acquired in January. What is driving me crazy is the rattle I here from the gate area -- You only hear it on non-smooth roads or bumpy roads. It is driving me CRAZY!!
I took the vehicle in for a 1000 mile oil change, had them take a look at it -- told me the back seat wasn't secured and so they secured it, but the rattle is still there -- makes me feel like I'm driving an old empty van.
I love this car, but I only want the rattle in the back to stop.
Anyone else had a similar problem?
Is it perhaps due to the very cold weather we've been having in Chicago?
Any advice that may be offered will be MUCH appreciated!

I think I know what the noise is, my MO used to make what I thought was a rattling noise, but come to find out, it was where the door came in contact with the rubber tabs that are mounted just above the tail lamps and the rubber tabs that are on the liftgate, they come in contact with each other. I rubbed some silicon tire dressing on each tab and it stopped the noise, lasted for about 4 to 5 months.

 

I have had the same issue with my 07. But when I roll the window down and then up it seems to fix it for a while.
I also thought I was crazy

 

04' Mo

I have the same problem. My told me it wat the regulator and there was not a fix for it. Just like my CVT that won't shift and now what they say are my front axles. I have a click when I put it in reverse and then again when I go to drive. Sounds like when a u-joint was bad. Their answer: There is a TSB stating this noise is caused by the front axles. They say they have to be removed and lubricated to the tune of 250 bucks. Also was told that Nissan does not cover anything under warrantr if there are no parts replaced. BS! This service advisor doesn't know squat. I have about all I can take with this. deal Anyone else heard ofthis?.

 

'06 With the Infamous TICK!

You'd think they would have fixed this by '06...

I have to say I'm both disappointed and relieved to have found this thread. I thought I was just being overly sensitive about the unusual sounds in the MO, but decided to check here anyway. This ticking sound is driving me bonkers! Some days it's quiet, other days it ticks from either the driver or passenger window area, and some days it sounds like a beater, ticking from both windows and the sunroof area!! I've never owned a vehicle that ticked like this (and this is by far the newest and most expensive vehicle I've ever owned). It really destroys the MO's otherwise great driving experience.

I've only gotten through about 5 pages of this thread (and already several TSB's have been mentioned) so I've got some more reading to do before I hit up the dealer for (hopefully) a warranty fix. Though, it looks like most people here addressed the issue themselves... I had good luck with my local dealer over a paint fix so hopefully they'll be just as helpful in trying to resolve this one. Wish me luck...

 

As I mentioned on another thread, for six year mine didn't rattle until I had some warranty work done at a dealership. One day I went there to check on the progress, and saw MO's windows partially down, and a tech grasping the top of the glass and leaning against it while shooting the sheet with another tech. Too much stress on the mechanism. I think it's the result of the careless techs who are working on our cars that's causing it. It could even happen because of you, if your window isn't down all the way and you lean into the window to grab something and stress the track. Also, some dealerships place those hooked tracker/marker boxes onto the glass, then roll the window up. That clip/hook is fairly thick and will again stress the window assembly.

 

Rattle with window down - simple fix in my case.

Just an FYI for those experiencing a rattle only with the window down - my wife's '05 Mo developed one in the driver's door. I was in there repairing the lock actuator the other day, and upon removing the door panel a loose screw fell out. Turns out it came from the attachment to the lock cables on the inside of the door - when the window was down, the loose attachment/bracket was banging against it. Put the screw back in (had to hold the inside bracket in to grab it with the screw, using a long screwdriver, down inside the window slot), and rattle is gone. Lots of other miscellaneous screws were somewhat loose on the door as well - it's much more solid after tightening everything up.

Also FYI - I used one of the eBay $4 generic door lock actuators, and it worked fine after some fiddling (ok, a lot of fiddling - had to cut a chunk of sheet metal out of the top inside of the door to make room for it). Was worth it to save the $400 the dealer wanted to replace the original parts. And if it ever fails again, it's a quick $4 fix now that the brackets, rods, etc. are all in place.

 

so what is the final consensus on this thread? Out of all the recommended solutions recommended here, Which fix is the best to apply?

 

Glad I stumbled across this thread... that noise has been driving me batty for 2 years now! I will be applying the felt strip this weekend... thanks MO Dale!!

 

Door Rattles (and fixes)

2006 S AWD, 85K miles. Door rattles (2)
o Location 1: Driver’s door, sounded like it was coming from lower left corner where window emerges from lower door. First appeared ~ 2 years ago. Card trick worked initially, but recently failed.
o Symptoms, etc.:
1. Rattled a few times each time when going over some bumps.
2. Had a metallic sound to it.
3. Colder temps increase the sensitivity to bumps – more rattling. When really cold (freezing), almost constant rattle.
4. Pressure on the inner door panel at that corner would stop the rattle so long as pressure was maintained.
o What ultimately worked:
1. Removed the door panel.
2. Applied silicone goo to the holes (round opening, not the slot) of the small metal brackets where the white snaps fit (that help hold the door panel to the door). Removed each snap, squeezed silicone over the hole area of each bracket, then slid a snap into the hole (while silicone was still wet). (I figure, with cold weather, the holes were enlarging {the metal shrank} just enough that the snap nearest the driver’s shoulder became more free to move/rattle. Over time, minute changes/wear in how each part of the door seated and moved caused the card trick to fail.) The silicone stops any noise-making movement yet is pliable enough to allow for door flexure and for unimpeded door-panel removal and re-attachment.
3. Added self-adhesive felt along the back side of the short leg of the upside-down J-shaped channel at the top of the door panel. The surface to attach the felt to is of white plastic and runs the length of the door panel/channel. It is this channel that fits over the top of the door’s inner metal skin, and the back side of the white plastic is in contact with the glass-facing side of the inner metal skin. If this contact is intermittent, you get rattles/ticks. The felt tightens up the contact and muffles any rattle.

o Location 2: Rear hatch, definitely coming from the latch.
o Symptoms, etc.
1. A constant jiggly rattle whenever the car was moving more than 10 MPH.
2. Occurred only in cold weather, when ambient < 50º F. When car warmed up from the heater or from standing in bright sunlight, rattle would diminish (car is black).
o What ultimately worked:
1. Wrapped several windings of blue painter’s tape around both the loop (on the deck) and the hook (on the door). Rattled immediately disappeared and hasn’t returned after 5 years. (I figure the low temperatures were causing both metal parts to shrink just enough to be loose enough to rattle.)

 

thanks for sharing!

 

this happens on my 2007 also. glad to hear im not alone. ?

 

From my experience, the driver/passenger door rattle comes from when the rubber grommets Nissan uses, dry rotted over time and now you've end up with plastic against the metal door panel. I found this out after having to replace the drive window regulator and motor assembly.
all the wire harness are held to the metal door panel by plastic clips. these plastic clips should all have rubber grommets, to keep the noise down from the hard plastic vibrating against the metal door panel. Because the weight of the wire shifts, it causes the clips to rattle against the metal. But over time these thin rubber grommets deteriorated and now you have plastic vibrating against metal.
what i did with my setup is i took duct tape and stacked it up to 4 layers, and cut out little round duct tape washers to put between the clips and the metal door panel. not sure how long this will last, but at least for now my doors are quiet.

Now for the trunk hatch rattle, i noticed mine will rattle when i prop the sunroof open. all you have to do is adjust the 2 rubber stoppers on both side of the hatch door. just unscrew them one turn at a time, lock it in it's height by tighten the nut so the stopper wont screw back down again. to determine which stopper needs to be adjusted, push on the back door at the place of the stopper. if you can feel the door moves a tiny bit, unscrew that side's stopper (making it higher) one counterclockwise turn. close the door and push again to see if it still wiggles or not.