Cute baby you have, dad. Congratulations. And your doing a super good job on that transmission project. And great photos thank you. I am glad to hear your going to get that torque converter cleaned.
Just don't forget to flush the oil coolers and that external oil filter.

 

Thank you so much @chidog I do appreciate.

That external filter is,I did opened it up and that filter is totally wasted, I am trying to find a part no for this, I am going to Nissan dealership tomorrow and ask if they got, I am sure when servicing Murano's in the early days, they must have replace the filter with new ones?

attached are photo of mine

 

Dealer only sells the whole assembly for over $300. here in us. Best bet is to find one at auto parts place or ? My new one was in the kit, I had to reuse old oring because I don't know if I had a new one or lost it. Go to my thread about my rebuild to see how to hold the converter to install the transmission. Opps I just noticed you found it, good deal.

 

I posted this in that other thread, and thought I should here as well.
And notice it is pretty thin bar stock. It worked great, those studs need to fit in the correct holes maybe hand hold to converter first to make sure you know which way to align it with the flex plate, I didn't do that and that became a headache to get right, so very important to get that correct.

 

@chidog I visited Nissan dealer yesterday in my town, took the filter to them, we have check parts and also they have the oil cooler/warmer assembly that are expensive.
The interesting part Nissan don't replace these filters when doing an oil service on these transmissions.
I have checked the "to do list" with the parts guy when Nissan doing service what parts/items they replace.

anyway with a lot of google search we find the part no for the filter, but that part no did not and so the part no changed to different no.
I have attached photo of the new filter and Part no to help all the members, please guys this filter is very important.
if this filter gets dirty your oil pressure will definitely drop.

 

@chidog I visited Nissan dealer yesterday in my town, took the filter to them, we have check parts and also they have the oil cooler/warmer assembly that are expensive.
The interesting part Nissan don't replace these filters when doing an oil service on these transmissions.
I have checked the "to do list" with the parts guy when Nissan doing service what parts/items they replace.

anyway with a lot of google search we find the part no for the filter, but that part no did not and so the part no changed to different no.
I have attached photo of the new filter and Part no to help all the members, please guys this filter is very important.
if this filter gets dirty your oil pressure will definitely drop.

I found that paper filter and O-ring for my 2003 using a cross-reference to Mitsubishi parts that I found at an Atima forum. I don't recall the numbers, though I thought I posted them somewhere here for someone... If I find them, I'll also post those numbers here.

 

Thank you Redline, good work finding it. Yes it is like even the dealer does not know that filter exists, and so strange they say the only way to replace it is with the whole 300 dollar assembly.
What about the O ring??????? Aren't you all glad I figured out it had these filters in the first place?

 

The external CVT filter has been mentioned numerous times in this forum...

 

Yes but not on a 2004 or 6. Because it is not in a separate place it hides under the warm up oil cooler in an integrated assembly.
And no one knew the part number for the replacement, the dealer parts depot included I know I tried to buy the o ring.

 

I just want to confirm I actually did know about the filter,I just want to wait till the last part to clean and flush cooler and the warmup oil cooler thing,I googled this car for hours and hours. but what I did is to find the part no and actually order it from Nissan dealer,as no one on the forum has posted the part no yet,as I have search it on the forum before,
anyways here I have took some photos when installing the new filter, cleaned the housing with brake cleaner

 

I hope I will also be rewarded as I post a lot of detail photos on the forum on my rebuilt
The O ring I bought from local bearing shop that sells O rings. so that was not a big issue.

 

Back to the valve body,I was so excited that the valve body filter have arrived!!!

 

And so I assembled the valve body with the new filter.

 

Redline you are highly awarded for finding the proper part number for the filter. I just can't believe its such a huge secret at all the Nissan dealers. They want to sell the whole $317.00 unit or what ever the cost is now.
On the suction screen for the valve body make sure that pipe that sticks down is the same as what the old one was. Lots of people had problems with the transmission when changing them due to they blocked the fluid flow because they bottomed out into the oil pan. Just a heads up. Yes you did a super job on the photos and what you have done. Hope it all goes good, I see no reason why it shouldn't.

 

I noticed the oil pickup/spout/neck on your fitler is slightly damaged. When I replaced mine, I recall it had no noticable damage, yet when I pulled the pan a few months later to check on things, the perimeter-face of the pickup was very damaged. There are have been posts about that pickup being slightly longer than the original, to the point it crumples on the bottom of the pan which then leads to restricted CVT fluid flow and possibly inferior line pressure. In my case, the pan went on easy and I didn't feel any bumping going on, but it's possible as the pan flange bolts were tightened and the pan moved upwards, it contacted the opening of the pickup and crushed it a bit. Refer to pics. Though my picture of the original fliter opening is from a lower, more dead-on view, I believe it reveals the pickup/neck is longer on the new one.

Here's a thead about my CVT if interested....

Rear differential, transfer case, CVT filter/fluid...

In combing through the threads here, it seems strange that MO owners are overwhelmingly using the drain/fill plugs to change the tranny fluid, despite Nissan's manual providing what I believe to be a simplier option, where you don't have to jack up the car or crawl way underneath it. It appears...

www.nissanmurano.org

Point being, pay close attention to the length so you don't end up with problems after everything's assembled. Nice job, BTW. Thanks for showing your work.

 

That filter came like that it was only in a plastic bag,I actually measure it as I have also read somewhere about he flange that is to long,so too make sure,I have attached the valve in to the transmission and bolt the pan and reopened it,there was no damage,will post later the photos.

 

Awesome photos!

 

Okay guys so here are some photos while I installed the valve body, remember to replace the two rubber seals as mine was very hard and got fined cracks, I have marked it with blue circles to help locate it.

 

 

So I have put back the transmission in the Murano,I worked like 2 days on it,to make sure everything is right.
So I filled the transmission with Nissan NS2 fluid and like everyone we all make mistakes and I have overfilled it and saw it while I was driving only for 2km - 3km.
I can only drive it for that short time as my Radiator got a leak and dont want to cause any damage.
So I have drained the fluid to the mark just under "Hot" mark.
I will attach photo of the Cvtz50 app and can anyone of the smart members tell me if the pressure are correct.
as soon as the Radiator are fixed I will go further to see if it shifts to all the "gears"

 

I will also liked to know if I have to reprogram/reflash the transmission as I have repaired it,and did not use original flow control valve (I use the transgo flow control valve) and I changed the variator pulleys ball bearings to the pin conversion

 

I'm no expert, but those initial CVTz50 screenshots look pretty good to me! It will be interesting to see the results when driving.

Congratulations on what looks like a very successful rebuild!

 

Thank you so much, yes this was a first time for me and wanted to do it perfect so I don't need to remove the transmission again, If I need to remove the valve body for issues that will be fine, but lets wait till the radiator are repaired so I can do a longer test drive, must say this was my first time driving a murano and not used to drive automatic vehicle, but damn this car feels nice, and the 3.5 V6 got soooo nice sound

 

I had down loaded a manual I think it told the correct amount of fluid to use, I forget now what that number is. If the valve body has the original ROM there is no need to program a thing. I never did, nor would I trust a dealer to do that, and not do something to cause me problems, and say sorry you need a new transmission. I saw the car yesterday my daughter is still using it and transmission is fine, CV's and suspension and engine have a few issues, but at least the transmission is doing okay. The only issue I had was since I reused the copper gaskets on the cooler lines I had one bottom line on that filter housing leak a bit. I'm betting nissan would want a mint for them so just ordered a kit of them on amazon, had to file the burr's off them, they fixed the problem. And congratulations for getting the job done and it works, yes.

 

Hey guys sorry for the delay, hope everyone enjoyed Christmas,
I were in accident with my ranger the other guy was passing vehicles driving the wrong side of the road and did not see me,long story short I am okay only shoulder neck and my lower back,could be the safety belt because I was hanging upside down...

back to the Murano, things that I need to know as I am not familiar with the vehicle and no one driving one in my town so I can go ask and do test drive.
Do you check cvt oil when idling or check when oil are warm and vehicle is turned off?
I check oil when vehicle warm and turned off and my oil is on the mark.

But sadly I got error code P0868.
could not be the flow control valve as it is already been replaced.

let me explain when driving.
when I move lever from P to R it goes instant in Reverse and very well.

when move lever from P to D it does not go in drive, vehicle not moving, but when move lever to N and back to D it goes instant then.
Could it be one of the solenoids on the valve body or bad connection?
when I am driving it feels it takes to long to go to the next "gear"
I am not gunning it down as I don't want to cause damage.
it also does not feel that the belt is slipping.

 

back to the Murano...

But sadly I got error code P0868.
could not be the flow control valve as it is already been replaced.

when move lever from P to D it does not go in drive, vehicle not moving, but when move lever to N and back to D it goes instant then.
Could it be one of the solenoids on the valve body or bad connection?
when I am driving it feels it takes to long to go to the next "gear"
I am not gunning it down as I don't want to cause damage.
it also does not feel that the belt is slipping.

P0868 was the final code I just couldn't get rid of after a few CVT fluid changes. My initial thought was that the secondary speed sensor was bad, but I never actually got around to switching it out due to engine problems. The car still drove relatively great until engine troubles emerged. Typically, if I cleared P0868 first thing in the morning, it would trigger again within about 1000 feet heading out of my driveway. Only once or twice did it remain cleared, and that lasted for I think six hours over the course of a day of starting and stopping (the engine) and driving about 150 miles. It triggered shortly after taking it on the highway and accelerating hard to 80MPH. Once I took an off-ramp and slowed to about 30MPH, the code triggered. BTW, the thermostat in my MO was original and often seemed to be stuck open from time to time. The P0868 code also seemed to start triggering during the colder months. I wonder if it's possible the coolant not being up to temp prevented the CVT from variating correctly and possibly caused P0868 to happen.

As I recall, code P0868 first triggered for me after pressure-washing the engine. It then cleared and remained gone for about a few weeks before coming back persistently.

I'd be curious to know if you replaced either of the speed sensors.

BTW, with the CVTz50 app running, once you drive a certain distance under certain conditions and then come to stop for a certain period of time (while remaining in D) it will perform a pressure test and show the results. Refer to pics. Sometimes the app or the CVT/TCM was fussy and I could drive for an hour, come to a stop for a few minutes and that pressure test never happened. Other times after driving for merely a mile and coming to a stop, the test was done immediately. It helps the process if you select to only monitor the CVT (uncheck engine and AWD montoring.). Frees up more resources for the test to happen, from what I could tell.

If interested, here's a link mid-thread about my CVT dealings with the pressure test, P0868, etc... Are you seeing the app's STM Step 196/196 data ever highlighting in yellow at any time?

Rear differential, transfer case, CVT filter/fluid...

In combing through the threads here, it seems strange that MO owners are overwhelmingly using the drain/fill plugs to change the tranny fluid, despite Nissan's manual providing what I believe to be a simplier option, where you don't have to jack up the car or crawl way underneath it. It appears...

www.nissanmurano.org

 

These transmissions are checked with the fluid at operating temperature and with the engine running. ((Hondas are the only strange ones for that.))
If it reads full with engine off then likely your troubles are the fluid is low.
As far as how it all works driving it. I really don't know, as I only moved my daughters car around my long driveway. It did no good for me to test it on the road as I have never driven a CVT.

Test drives? I have never understood why so many seem to have to do that I can do most all tests with out driving a car. I have done many wheels off the ground tests of normal automatic transmissions, and its easier to have pressure gauges connected as well.

 

Okay guys, so fluid was low, my mistake, but not too low, so I add some while engine running and wait a minute and add till I reach the mark, so all that codes were gone.
but car was still delay when changing gears, and I got the P0720 code, actually that was a brand new speed sensor that I bought last year.
So I put the old one back and all the errors gone.
drove for a while and gears were changing very smooth and very well.
stop and run the cvt app again, no errors.
drove for a few miles and still no errors.
I am so happy that I rebuild a successful transmission.

Thanx a lot for everyone that was following my post and everyone's input!

 

Thats good to hear. And great job you did. That transmission is very likely rebuilt way better than anything you would have got from Nissan. The only thing that could be a problem or may not. Is the use of RTV on the case. Yes in one of the bulletins for a newer style transmission they show using it. But when I took mine apart what hit me first was the lack of any sealer on the parting surfaces. So they must have used some sort of anaerobic sealer at the factory, that is what I used, the only place that type of sealer cures is between the metal surfaces, it stays sticky and fluid where ever it oozes out of the seam, so it won't plug up stuff and it will dissolve in the fluid instead. You get an A++ for the great job done.

 

Thank you so much @chidog
And thanx for all your input..I am so happy with my project. Just need to replace the left ball joint and maybe some wheel allignment.
The interior will be next but will do it with new post,nothing wrong with it as everything still looks perfect,but want to change interior lights to LED and etc.