Codes were C1155 (left front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure)

Nissan defines this code for low brake fluid level. Are you sure it wasn't C1104 or C1108 if it did pertain to the front LH sensor? Is your ABS light on?

The dealer claimed that the wheel sensor was actually INSIDE the transmission which is just one reason why we opted to have them do nothing since I knew that was a lie.

There is a primary and secondary speed sensor in the transmission (secondary is mounted on the outside), but if it was a C-prefix trouble code then it is one of the wheel speed sensors mounted near the wheels.

The dealer also claimed that the A/C compressor needed replaced because it had no power. If that's the case, it would seem to me that the upstream relay or IDPM in the case of this car should be investigated first before replacing the compressor.

Presumably, they would have done this as part of their diagnostics. Nevertheless, run the Auto-Active test in the attached PDF document and see if the IPDM is capable of actuating the A/C clutch independent of all the other inputs in the A/C system.

 

Thank you for the information!

Nissan defines this code for low brake fluid level. Are you sure it wasn't C1104 or C1108 if it did pertain to the front LH sensor? Is your ABS light on?

I have attached the AutoZone and dealer reports for reference. I really wished that I would have had my own code reader with me (an extra has already been purchased and put in the car!). The AutoZone report stated C1155 for the sensor, P1778 for the transmission, and also listed P0868. ABS light was not on and currently no lights are on.

Presumably, they would have done this as part of their diagnostics. Nevertheless, run the Auto-Active test in the attached PDF document and see if the IPDM is capable of actuating the A/C clutch independent of all the other inputs in the A/C system.

I would have hoped so, but they were not able or were unwilling to really explain what was actually done and how. It was very frustrating. It is supposed to stop raining later today and I will give the procedure you provided a try. Thanks!

 

@I need coffee ... I ran the diagnostic test today and all seemed to check out, but unsure of the A/C compressor since the clicks were very faint. Not sure how loud they are expected to be.

CVT fluid level looks okay per the referenced procedure in the manual to check it.
New Bonus Problem: Lock tab on the CVT Fluid Check stick cap broke right off when I pressed it in to release the cap! Guess I'll have to add that to the parts list...

Attached is a picture of the transfer case seal leak that was mentioned.

Thanks!

 

It's leaking pretty good. The level on the dipstick is normal so if you haven't been filling the fluid then presumably the dealership tech did?

I would suggest the following:

- Do a few transmission oil pan drain/refills spaced at least a few days apart until the fluid on the dipstick is clear. Be sure to use CVT fluid that says "NS-2" on the label. Then do another one, but also drop the transmission oil pan and clean it out (along with the magnets) and also remove the filter attached to the valve body and clean it out. Depending on how much debris you find, it will give you a decent indication of the shape the CVT is in.

- Change the gear oil in the transfer case and also measure the fluid that drains out--it holds a little over 300ml. The reason for this aside from putting fresh gear oil in is to make sure that it isn't leaking as well because if it is, you will probably have to suck it up and have it repaired since if it goes dry the transfer case will fail.

If it ends up just being a seepage leak from the CVT output shaft seal then you can just monitor the fluid level and make sure it's always within the hash area if you can tolerate the oil leaking on the underside of your car (and possibly garage/driveway). As far as the codes are concerned, clear them and see if any come back.

On the A/C compressor, you need to be certain that the IPDM is (or is not) actuating the clutch solenoid in order to determine what your next steps will be. Run the test again and shine a flashlight down where the compressor is and see if you can visually see the clutch moving when you hear the clicks. If you have to, raise the front end of the car and remove the wheel and splash guard (4 clips) and the compressor is right there. If the clutch is engaging then you have to figure out why the ECM is not sending the A/C request command to the IPDM.

 

The sub frame assembly part for my Subaru finally arrived this week after being backordered for two months, so I was able to get that swapped and can now return my focus to this...

Happy weekend! Thank you for the information and recommendations. I have never added transmission fluild and the dealer mentioned nothing about doing; only ran diagnostics.

I will pick up NS-2 transmission fluid and work through the changes you suggested. Also, looks like the replacement transmission pan gasket is part ##313971XD00/313971XE0A, correct? I will also look at the A/C compressor closer and see if I can make a determination on it.

For the CVT check cap, I was able to find that it's part 31086-JA00A. However, the part details state that it should be installed and used for checking the CVT fluid level only and not left in place all the time. However, the full cap and stick was in place on this Murano. Is there a different part number for just the cap without dipstick then? I have not been successful and locating that particular part number. Please advise, if possible. Thanks.

 

If all you did was break the locking tab on the CVT dipstick, don't bother replacing it. Many others on these forums did the same thing--it's not going anywhere.

I don't believe you need to buy an OEM gasket for the CVT pan. Aftermarket should be fine (Mahle, Fel-Pro etc.).

The transfer case has a fill plug facing the passenger side that's a 12mm wrench size, but it's in a very tight spot. Most people use a deep offset wrench (at least 60 degrees--Harbor Freight sells a set). I use a ratcheting S wrench. The drain plug is right on the bottom of the transfer case and it's a 10mm hex bit. There's a how-to on the 1st generation forum and the procedure is pretty the same for the 2nd generation. Just make sure to lift the entire car so it's level. You'll find RTV on the threads of both, which you'll have to clean, but you have the option of using plumbers teflon tape instead (cleaner and easier to work with).

IMPORTANT: Do not drain the gear oil unless you can loosen the fill plug first or you may find yourself in quite the pickle.

 

Will also do the gear oil change and check the volume. If necessary, it doesn't sound like that gasket is really DIY?

 

Forgot to provide an update. I picked up a 10 mm Allen socket for the transmission oil plug and changed in a couple days ago. No issues with that so far. I was surprised to see an O-ring on the plug rather than a crush washer, but maybe that was the standard for the 2012? I will drain again in a couple days and have a Fel-Pro 18755 gasket on the way for the third change with pan drop. Will update on the condition then.

I still need to investigate the transfer case fill plug before I do anything else with that.

As for the A/C, its pulley is spinning, but I cannot hear or see the clutch engage either when activating the A/C regularly or via the IPDM test.

 

As for the A/C, its pulley is spinning, but I cannot hear or see the clutch engage either when activating the A/C regularly or via the IPDM test.

If you have a test light, connect it to a good ground, disconnect the harness connector from the A/C compressor coil and probe terminal #1 (white wire) of the wiring harness connector while running the IPDM Auto Active test. If it lights up when the test is run then the A/C coil is bad. If it doesn't light up then the problem would be either the wiring to the IPDM or the A/C clutch relay inside it (do you hear the relay in the IPDM click, but the clutch doesn't engage?).

 

It is the same, but at that low a torque spec you would be looking at a tool calibrated to inch-pounds because torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their torque range (i.e. not at the extremes). Also, wrenches calibrated in foot-pounds typically bottom out at 10 ft-lbs (...at least the ones that I've seen).

Thanks for the explanation. I have a 3/8" drive wrench that has 0.5 ft-lb increments, but I'll get an appropriate wrench for this. No need to mess it up over a relatively inexpensive tool that will likely be needed again in the future any way!

At the moment I am tracking down the necessary replacement transmission pan bolts. The part number for 2012 Murano SL is being elusive to me (although looks like it is 313771XA00 and 18 are needed), or maybe I'm just worn out on this project! Also, is there a specific pattern for tightening the bolts on the pan? Thanks!

 

Thanks for the explanation. I have a 3/8" drive wrench that has 0.5 ft-lb increments, but I'll get an appropriate wrench for this. No need to mess it up over a relatively inexpensive tool that will likely be needed again in the future any way!

At the moment I am tracking down the necessary replacement transmission pan bolts. The part number for 2012 Murano SL is being elusive to me (although looks like it is 313771XA00 and 18 are needed), or maybe I'm just worn out on this project! Also, is there a specific pattern for tightening the bolts on the pan? Thanks!

It should be 31377-1XD0D, but do a VIN search to confirm. Nissanpartsdeal says 20 is required, but it could be that 2 bolts are used elsewhere.

 

Well, today was finally a nice day to drop the transmission pan as there are no other projects in the way and all of the necessary parts are in hand. The bolts holding on the air deflector were super rusted and broke of just by looking at them, but that's an issue for later. Dropped the pan and there is definitely some fine dark gray sludge around the magnets (I wiped some off in trying to determine the amount before grabbing the pick). Not sure how much is considered too much though. The car has been driven off and on for the past several months with no check engine lights appearing again. Please advise on whether I should just put this back together and not worry about the transmission for now or if it should be replaced. Thanks!

 

Well, today was finally a nice day to drop the transmission pan as there are no other projects in the way and all of the necessary parts are in hand. The bolts holding on the air deflector were super rusted and broke of just by looking at them, but that's an issue for later. Dropped the pan and there is definitely some fine dark gray sludge around the magnets (I wiped some off in trying to determine the amount before grabbing the pick). Not sure how much is considered too much though. The car has been driven off and on for the past several months with no check engine lights appearing again. Please advise on whether I should just put this back together and not worry about the transmission for now or if it should be replaced. Thanks!

That's not too bad. Internal transmission components wear over time so those magnets will inevitably attract some degree of metallic particles. You should also remove and clean the filter screen attached to the valve body and note how much debris has accumulated there as well.

 

The magnets look somewhat normal. The thick looking goo ? What is it? Did the transmission get the proper fluid?

 

Okay, so here's the current status on this project...

• AC clutch was pulled and replaced with $22 part for eBay and the A/C is working great again.
• Transmission fluid and gasket has been holding solid with no leaks; no near error codes.
• For the leaking transfer case, I took the car to a place specializing in transmissions at the recommendation of my trusted mechanic and the place does A LOT of work on Nissan CVT... The transfer case is leaking at the transmission; it apparently holds 1.1 pints and was about half full. Their pull of the code history indicated a possible stepper motor problem. They refilled the oil and recommended replacing the transmission and transfer case at the same time which is up to us based on the cost to do so nearly meeting or exceeding the remaining value of the car.
• Stupid broken driver's side visor replaced; it was surprising how much those cost considering the genuine Subaru replacement visor I did awhile back was only about a third the cost of the Nissan one!

Overall everything is running okay and we drive it around town, but we have been looking for a replacement vehicle since the long term outlook on this one is not good unless we go all in on a replacement transmission and transfer case.

 

The transfer case is leaking at the transmission

Is the transfer case leaking or the transmission? If the latter, you can likely drive the car for many years if you just make sure to top off the CVT fluid, periodically (...assuming a seepage leak).