Hey Paul,

Why are you using an air lift? What's it good for?

 

Hey Paul,

Why are you using an air lift? What's it good for?

Check this discussion. I've posted pics.


http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/82-1st-gen-2003-2007/217297-i-ve-confused-myself.html


Have a good day.

 

Thanks.

For our 3rd gens the towing capacity is 1500 lbs., I wonder why it's 2000 lbs. less than 2nd gens. I thought I read somewhere that 2nd gens really had 1500lb as well, and the wording for the 3500lb in the manual was odd, which made people think it has a tow capacity of 3500lbs (I could be wrong).

Would you suggest that same item you're using for me, if I'm towing up to 1250-1500lbs occasionally, but normally around 300-600 lbs.?

 

Thanks.

For our 3rd gens the towing capacity is 1500 lbs., I wonder why it's 2000 lbs. less than 2nd gens. I thought I read somewhere that 2nd gens really had 1500lb as well, and the wording for the 3500lb in the manual was odd, which made people think it has a tow capacity of 3500lbs (I could be wrong).

Would you suggest that same item you're using for me, if I'm towing up to 1250-1500lbs occasionally, but normally around 300-600 lbs.?

I highly recommend the air lift kit. What's really nice about it once you add air for a level ride, you'll hardly notice any difference in the ride and handling, except for using a little more brake.


Super easy to install, although it does take a little to get the air bags into the springs, just make sure the fill nipples are facing down. I T'd the bags together and have the fill nipple coming thru the very bottom bumper right by the tow light connector.


I'll try to take a couple pics tomorrow and post them so you can see for yourself.


Have a good day.

 

Thanks! I have to drive some 1500 miles with a 4'x8' U-Haul soon. I think this will help. And I doubt it matters, but I have an AWD.

 

Thanks Paul,

That's very kind of you!

PM sent...

 

"Replace Side Marker, License Plate, Turn Signal (Back changed from Orange to Red) and Backup lights with equivalent LEDs ? Finished"

Paul,

Can you link to the bulbs you purchased for the side marker and turn signal bulbs?

Was this a simple swap or are there more steps involved? I've read something about double-time blinking happening when leds are used for the signals.

 

"Replace Side Marker, License Plate, Turn Signal (Back changed from Orange to Red) and Backup lights with equivalent LEDs ? Finished"

Paul,

Can you link to the bulbs you purchased for the side marker and turn signal bulbs?

Was this a simple swap or are there more steps involved? I've read something about double-time blinking happening when leds are used for the signals.

The only ones you need to worry about are the front and rear blinker bulbs. All other bulbs you can use whatever you want. I bought three or four different styles (looking for the brightest and 6000K output) for each type of bulb needed.


Most of the blinker led 7443 bulbs are not CAN compatible, even though they may say they are, and will cause rapid blinking.


NB Series, 360-450 lumens (7443 Bulb) - BEST more details on - https://www.carid.com/2017-nissan-murano-led-lights/lumen-led-lights-273023845.html


These are the only led's that are really CAN compatible, that I've found, and don't cause the rapid blinking. They are not cheap, you can chose red for the back instead of the standard orange. I didn't want to go the resister route to prevent the rapid blink.


The rest of the led bulbs you can get cheaper on Amazon or Ebay.


The bulbs are listed in the Owner's Manual, 8-25. Just put the number listed and add led to end in Amazon or Ebay to see the equivalent led bulb.


Sorry I can only give you the one's for the blinkers. Except for the fog lights, I went thru several types of led bulbs for each application looking for the right look. What worked for the plate, didn't work for marker. But I did end up with a nice collection of led bulbs that will probably collect dust. :crying:


Have a good day.

 

Running board installation.

The running boards are installed and wiring passed thru to the inside. Still have to hook up the lights.


The first picture is a shot of the running board showing the GKL added along with the blue lights.


I'll be posting pictures with everything lit up soon.


Have a good day.

 

Looks really good...
I am still waiting for the grommet

I think I can tell where you drilled the hole from your picture, that was my concern.
What size hole did you drilled? The instructions says 16mm
Also, how long did it take you for both board?

Thanks for sharing....

 

Looks really good...
I am still waiting for the grommet

I think I can tell where you drilled the hole from your picture, that was my concern.
What size hole did you drilled? The instructions says 16mm
Also, how long did it take you for both board?

Thanks for sharing....

My wife dropped the mailer in the box at the PO Monday on her way to work. Thought you'd have gotten it by now.


I drilled the hole right where the templet shows. You have to remove the wire bundle from the first two white clips so you can pull up the rug at the inside edge of the first clip to access the inside hole. It's covered by a six sided foam patch. I shined a light into the hole and was able to feed a stiff wire with a bend up from the bottom using the light that was shining thru.


I drilled a 16mm hole so that the grommet would fit tight. It was a very tight fit with just 3 wires. I did have to cut out the back side of the grommet so that the wires would fit thru.


I don't know the size of your wires, but you might have to remove the connectors to get all 4 of those wires thru one hole. You could always drill another hole inside next to the existing one and then drill one outside in the same location and put two wires thru each hole. Use the plugs that you removed for the second set of holes (Follow the procedure I posted above for the flat grommet.) and use the set I sent for the first set of holes.


As you can see, I applied primer and paint and then used black PVC to seal everything.


It was a little more involved then yours, with the added GLK kit, but we spent about 5 hours from start to getting the wires inside the car.


I'm half way done wiring and I'll be finishing after supper. I'm over in upper NY at my brother's house. The car is parked in his drive-in cellar, so we can take our time with everything. I'll post pics when the lights are finished.


Have a good day

 

Hi Paul,

I did actually receive the grommets, did not know they would be in a small envelope.

But they are way too small for my wires, my wires are thicker, I will go to Lowes or home depot to try to find a wider grommet with a bigger opening.

I rather put all 4 wires through one hole, instead of drilling 2 holes on each side. My wire loom has a diameter of 16mm, but need a wider opening through the grommet. I might need to drill a 20-25mm hole...

 

Hi Paul,

I did actually receive the grommets, did not know they would be in a small envelope.

But they are way too small for my wires, my wires are thicker, I will go to Lowes or home depot to try to find a wider grommet with a bigger opening.

I rather put all 4 wires through one hole, instead of drilling 2 holes on each side. My wire loom has a diameter of 16mm, but need a wider opening through the grommet. I might need to drill a 20-25mm hole...

You could use a 1" body plug instead. You can pick them up at any auto parts store.


Just be sure so use plenty of PVC to seal everything.


I'll be posting pics of everything we did this last week.


Have a good day.

 

Hi Paul,

had the day off today, and decided to try to install my running boards. The task is not easy at all, and after 1hr of fiddling around, I gave up. There is no way I can install the running boards without putting the car on a lift.

The screws that holds the brackets do not hold easily once you have them inside the frame. Maybe my board design is different from yours, but once I put the screws inside the car frame they shake a lot, and I am not sure how well they will hold, given that one side of the screw has a lip to hold it against the frame. I have attached the picture of the screw so you can see how they are designed.

I am still confised about where you drilled the hole? I pulled the carpet out and between the first white bracket and second, I did not see any hex foam tape, maybe it is only on the platinum model. But I found a small hole ( like predilled 1/2 way), right at the center. Is this where you drilled the hole? ( see picture).
Also, do you have to drill a hole from the bottom of the car? Because that part of the car is hollow.

I was able to find some nice grommet at advanced auto part, they should do the job nicely

I will have to go to a mechanic that has a lift and try put the car on the lift to be able to install the running board, hopefully next week, once I shop around for a mechanic who can help me.

Thanks

 

Hi Paul,

had the day off today, and decided to try to install my running boards. The task is not easy at all, and after 1hr of fiddling around, I gave up. There is no way I can install the running boards without putting the car on a lift.

The screws that holds the brackets do not hold easily once you have them inside the frame. Maybe my board design is different from yours, but once I put the screws inside the car frame they shake a lot, and I am not sure how well they will hold, given that one side of the screw has a lip to hold it against the frame. I have attached the picture of the screw so you can see how they are designed.

I am still confised about where you drilled the hole? I pulled the carpet out and between the first white bracket and second, I did not see any hex foam tape, maybe it is only on the platinum model. But I found a small hole ( like predilled 1/2 way), right at the center. Is this where you drilled the hole? ( see picture).
Also, do you have to drill a hole from the bottom of the car? Because that part of the car is hollow.

I was able to find some nice grommet at advanced auto part, they should do the job nicely

I will have to go to a mechanic that has a lift and try put the car on the lift to be able to install the running board, hopefully next week, once I shop around for a mechanic who can help me.

Thanks

You don't need a lift nor a mechanic. Really, save your money. With your pics I can walk you thru the tough spots. Once you have the bolt and hole issue resolved, physical installation is about 2 hours.


With pics 1 and 5 I can tell you have 3 of the smaller bolts and 2 of the larger ones. The bolts are exactly like mine and they hold very well when tightened up. See below on how to solve the "shaky issue".


Pic 2 is correct. I was given 1" clear plastic squares with the size hole for each bolt. The hole was so small that it screwed onto the screw, sealed the hole and held the screw in place while putting on the bracket. Instead, cut a 1" square piece of duct tape, cut a little starter hole in the middle and slide it up the bolt sticking down to hold it in place. The tape will move, allowing the bolts to move to be aligned during the running board installation.


Pic 3. No, that's not where I drilled. I see this is the passenger's side. In the picture, the bottom clip (first one from the front of the car), the rug at the very bottom of the picture, pull out towards the center of the car. Grab the rug up in the foot well corner where you removed the kick panel and fold it back towards the center console. Right at the bottom (in the picture) when you pull the rug back, the metal bends down into the foot well. The hole with the foam patch is right on that vertical wall, about 1 1/2" down. Peel it off to see the hole.


Drill the hole from the bottom using the templet from the GLK pdf. You only need to raise the car enough to get your drill motor under to drill up into the panel where the bolts hang down. We used a large Uni-bit to drill the hole, which is shorter then a drill bit and easier to handle. You'll need to make the inside hole larger to match the size you're drilling to fit the grommet (pic 4) you've picked up. Yes, you're drilling into a large hollow tube that runs under both doors.


Shine a light thru the vertical hole inside and look up thru the hole you drilled and you'll see the light shining. Use it as a guide to feed you're wires thru.


PM me and I'll give a number to call and I can help you further. I worked a teck helpdesk for a year and can walk anyone thru just about anything, with the proper instructions and knowledge, over the phone. This one is a piece of cake.


Have a good day.

 

Believe me, I am a very handy man, but got so frustrated the screws did not hold in place that I gave up. I got as far as putting all 3 brackets in place, but when I try to slide the board, they started shaking and coming out, could not find a way to hold them in place when screwing the nuts.

I am not sure of the 1'' clear plastic square you are talking about, mine did not come with those. I will try the duct tape method and see. How did you align the bolts? with the lip facing toward the front or back of the car?

I will try again next weekend, hopefully this time, I will be successful.

Here is a video of the install they posted on youtube, they make it look so easy, but it is not.

 

Believe me, I am a very handy man, but got so frustrated the screws did not hold in place that I gave up. I got as far as putting all 3 brackets in place, but when I try to slide the board, they started shaking and coming out, could not find a way to hold them in place when screwing the nuts.

I am not sure of the 1'' clear plastic square you are talking about, mine did not come with those. I will try the duct tape method and see. How did you align the bolts? with the lip facing toward the front or back of the car?

I will try again next weekend, hopefully this time, I will be successful.

Here is a video of the install they posted on youtube, they make it look so easy, but it is not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kda4s-cFuI4&t=34s

It doesn't matter which way you insert the long leg of the bolt into the hole. It will hold either way. Just use the tape to hold the screw so you can place the brackets. I had one of the small screws pop completely up into hole, couldn't even see it. Took a short flex stick and put a small piece of double sided tape on the end and stuck it in the hole and fished around until I felt it touch the bolt and dragged it to the edge of the hole to grab it. Boy, was I sweating bullets until I got it back out.


The video is the exact way it's done. Please remember, he's probably done it dozen's of times so he isn't worried about holding the bolts still while placing the bracket. Also, the video is pretty shaky and cutting several steps short, although I did notice that the text was pretty accurate.


You have to tighten the bracket bolts, leaving them just loose enough so that the bracket can slide back and forth. Once you have all three brackets on and tighten as described, open both doors and place the running board onto the brackets.


Close the doors and go under and slide the brackets to line up with the screw nuts on the running board. After you have all the running board screws installed, tighten them up firmly first.


Align the running board before tightening the main bracket mounting bolts. You're good to go at that point.


Hopefully you've figured out the hole issue.


Have a good day.

 

Lighted running board pictures

Here's a few pictures of the running board lit up. The Murano logo is lit whenever the car is running. I'm waiting for a relay needed to operate the blue lights under the running board.


Have a good day.

 

Rebranded rearend completed.

Here are a few pictures of the rear rebranded. I went a little radical! Better pictures to follow.


Have a good day.

 

Brake Rotors and pads replaced.

Please share your experience, I just finished one wheel and it was little daunting for a first timer.

Assad,


I replaced rotors and pads last week with slotted and drilled black zink rotors and ceramic/metalic hybrid pads. Big difference in stopping! Got the rotors from Brakestop, great place for brake parts.


I'll post a pic of how my brakes look now. Very sharp with the chrome rims.


Have a good day.
[/QUOTE]


Hope this helps you out.


If you're just replacing the pads, it's not too hard.


For the front, after removing the tire, you'll have to remove the two slide bolts that the caliber rides on, from the back side. After removing the caliber, using a large C clamp and old brake pad, compress the caliber piston back in. Secure the caliber while replacing the pads. Slide the caliber back over the new pads, making sure the pins are cleaned and slightly greased before inserting and tightening.


If you're removing the rotor, you'll have to also remove the caliber holding bracket, removing the two larger bolts on the back side that hold it to the spindle assembly.


The rear is a little more difficult. The bottom caliber slide bolt will not come out due to rear suspension support being in the way. You have to loosen the caliber slide bolts all the way and then use a large box wrench (22mm if I remember correctly), remove the bottom caliber bracket bolt. Loosen the top caliber bracket bolt, and now you'll be able to swing the assembly up from the bottom and remove the bottom caliber slide bolt to remove the caliber. Finish up the same as the front.


Remove the top caliber assembly bolt if you're changing the rotor also. Assemble in the reverse order by hanging the caliber bracket assembly by the top bolt to start.


I've attached a few pics of the finished front and rear brakes on the drivers side.


Have a good day.

 

Hi Paul,

You read my mind, I just finished up replacing my rear brake pads, first time replacing brake pads. I did a lot of research and watch a lot of youtube video before adventuring myself into doing this . Every car is a little different, but they all apply the same principle for brakes.

Last week I was at the dealer to change my oil, he told me that my rear brake pads were 3/32 and needed new pads, he quoted me $370 just for the rear, he told me he would also resurface the rotor. Also, when he removed the tire to show me the pads, I noticed a lot of rust around the rotor, he did not advised me to change it, but just to resurface it. He told me that my front pads were fine, and that the rear pads on the murano wear faster than the ones on the front.

I have 70,000 miles, not a lot of braking, most of my driving is highway from MD to Jersey, maybe that's why it took so long before my pads wears out.

I bought all the necessary tools to changed my pads, I was quoted $80 for the rear pads from the dealer. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the Akebono premium pads for $52, I wanted to also get rotors, but changed my mind at the last minute, I thought i would just clean them really good and remove all the surface rust. I was told that the rotor with the holes are not that good because they suck dust inside those hole, although they might help with dissipating heat. The ones they recommended me were the ones with the slotted rotor because they help in getting rid of the brake dust ( more on that later).

First thing I noticed when I removed my tires were the amount of dust around the rotor, although my pads were not that worn out, there was a lot of dust trapped between the pads and the rotor, I guess it is a good idea to spray some brake cleaner between the pads and the rotor from time to time ( not sure). Seeing how rusty some parts were and the amount of dust surrounding the rotor, I decided to soak my rotor into some rust remover ( WD40 / $26 for 1 gallon at Lowes), it did a pretty good job at removing the rust, I was quite satisfied with the final result.

I also decided to paint my caliper, since it was all rusty and ugly. I wanted to spray some VHT color caliper paint to match my car orange color, but decided at the last minute to just paint it metallic silver. After lots of sanding with a wire brush, and using a drill with wirebrush, I applied the paint and it look just like brand new.

As a newbie, you are prone to make some newbie mistake, here are some tips for those newbies.

1- The guide pins, although the same length and identical somehow, are not the same. The one with the rubber boot goes on top. I did not noticed it until I went to put it back, I had to stop and try to figure out which one goes on top by looking t the service manual.

2- The screws that hold the brackets are pretty tight in there, you need a to use a rubber hammer and hit the end of the wrench to loosen it a bit.

3- Use you camera and take lots of picture before you disassemble everything, that way you can remember where everything go when you are ready to put it back.

4- If you are replacing the rear rotors, make sure you disengage the parking brakes. Had to find out the hard way, after spending 20min trying to pull it out

At one point I freaked out, I rotated the wheel I was working on forward, and the other wheel was turning the opposite direction, I thought I did something wrong, to cause it to do that, I was like what the hell? lol, still don't understand why?

Another mistake I made, i forgot to put the washer in the bottom bolt that holds the bracket. Imagine my frustration when I put my hand inside my pocket and found a washer in there, then I realized I missed putting it inside the bolt, had to remove the tire again and redo it.

Overall, it was quite fun doing it on my own, it is not that hard once you do it, the first wheel might take longer, but once you figure out everything, it should be pretty easy. I will start doing oil change myself also...


Paul,

1-Don't you have to open the brake fluid reservoir before you push the piston in?
2- What is that rubber attached to the rotor used for?
3- Which brand of pads did you use? Had a hard time selecting one. My coworker recommended I get ceramic because they produce less dust.

 

Hi Paul,

1-Don't you have to open the brake fluid reservoir before you push the piston in?
2- What is that rubber attached to the rotor used for?
3- Which brand of pads did you use? Had a hard time selecting one. My coworker recommended I get ceramic because they produce less dust.

Yes, but I only had 4,100 miles so that wasn't an issue. Excuse me, I been doing this too long and am making a lot of assumptions.


You remove that plug to adjust the emergency brake, like the old drum system. You shouldn't need to touch this.


I'm using an hybrid ceramic/metallic, I'll have to look and see the brand, but I got them online. Not too bad on dust, but you get a little more of the metallic stopping power. I shop online because I paid about 2/3 of what you paid for your ceramic pads and if I went to AAP and ordered my type they'd be about double of what I paid. I don't mind the wait and I pretty much plan my repairs pretty well in advance.


Looking at the picture that shows the rotor looking down on the edge, it looks like the inside surface is thinner then the outside surface. Both sides of the rotor should be the same thickness. If one side is more worn then the other, it means that your caliber is not sliding properly on the pins. More then likely it's not sliding back enough after braking and the inside brake pad is staying in contact longer with the rotor, causing excess wear on that side. The key is making sure that you don't use too much grease on the pins so it doesn't get air bound, but is still fully lubricated so it doesn't rust.


I've been using slotted and drilled rotors for the past 15 years since they became more popular and I've never had the holes plug from dust, even using solid metallic pads, which really produce a lot of dust.


Good luck with your other side. I'm sure it will go much easier.


I wire brushed the calibers and brackets and then put about 6 coats of high temp clear gloss coat.


Have a good day.

 

Thanks for the tips, this is the first time I am replacing my pads, so it is nothing I did that cause that to happen. Although when I applied the silicone grease on the pin, I put a little bit more to cover all the pin, though that a little more would not hurt, since it is meant to slide in and out, will keep that in mind for the front pads.
I bought the clear gloss, but did not think it would be worth it to apply it. Maybe I should have to protect the paint from peeling off.

Would putting brake cleaner between the pads and the rotor from time to time hurt? This is to prevent dust from being stuck between the pads and the rotor. When I removed my rotor, there was a lot of dust stuck in there, and this causing your rotor to wear and noise.

I might invest in getting new rotors, since they are not that expensive.

 

Thanks for the tips, this is the first time I am replacing my pads, so it is nothing I did that cause that to happen. Although when I applied the silicone grease on the pin, I put a little bit more to cover all the pin, though that a little more would not hurt, since it is meant to slide in and out, will keep that in mind for the front pads.
I bought the clear gloss, but did not think it would be worth it to apply it. Maybe I should have to protect the paint from peeling off.

Would putting brake cleaner between the pads and the rotor from time to time hurt? This is to prevent dust from being stuck between the pads and the rotor. When I removed my rotor, there was a lot of dust stuck in there, and this causing your rotor to wear and noise.

I might invest in getting new rotors, since they are not that expensive.

Assad,


Pins should be able to slide in and out without air getting trapped when pushing the pin in. If it does, you have too much grease and the caliber will "stick" the pad to the rotor on the piston side. This is not that uncommon of an issue of uneven wear on the rotor with single piston calibers, even without the grease issue on the pins.


If the silver paint you used was high temp then you should be ok. If not, high temp clear coat at this time will not help. Once the caliber temp reaches about 150 degrees, regular spray enamel paint (even with primer) will start to loose adhesion and flake. I was going to paint my calibers, but decided not to because it would have been a four step process, primer, color coat, Nismo logo, and clear coat. I just detail wire brushed the caliber and bracket, cleaned with denatured alcohol and applied the logo and then applied about 6 coats of high temp high gloss clear coat to everything but the rubber parts. I figure that should be good for about two to three years before it needs it again and then I might go with a color instead of clear.


Brake cleaner should only be used to clean new rotors (Unfinished rotors ship with a light coating of oil to prevent rust.) and remove any oils left on the rotor when assembling. Absolutely avoid getting ANY type of oil or grease on your new pads. The pad can quickly absorb the oil into the material and even brake cleaner will not remove it all.


Only compressed air (Please wear a face mask!), or brush should be used to clean off brake dust. Brake cleaner can actually cause excessive dust to clump and harden when dried, which can cause scoring of the rotor. Most people don't realize that brake dust is composed of the hardest left over parts of the system, so very abrasive. One of the advantages of using slotted/drilled rotors is they shed this dust instead of collecting in the pad slots and leading edge of the pad. Without this dust collecting, the rotors last longer and wear more even, plus you have a little more stopping power in extreme conditions.


Premium Cross-Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors


This is where I get all my rotors, and sometimes pads. Their rotors are H3000 (hardness), where most auto parts stores sell H2700 to H2800 rotors. I just bought the black zinc rotors a month ago and now I see that the price has dropped another 20% over what I paid. You can't beat the price, along with free shipping.


https://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-performance-calipers/#y=2017&mk=NISSAN&mo=MURANO


This is where I get my calibers from when I need them. This is the manufacturer's web site, shop around for the cheapest price. I used them on my 2003 Murano SL and they greatly improved the feel of the pedal and stopping power. I called their support number and was told that they use a little wider seal on the piston, which is supposed to help prevent piston rock. When you remove your pads, if the front edge is worn more then the rear edge, more the slightly, the caliber piston is not sliding straight anymore and more prone to locking up. You should replace the caliber as a preventive measure if there is a significant difference in wear from the front to the rear of the pads. Repeated hard braking will also cause this condition on single piston calibers.


Hope this helps you out. Nothing like nice new brakes.


Have a good day.

 

Looking at the picture that shows the rotor looking down on the edge, it looks like the inside surface is thinner then the outside surface. Both sides of the rotor should be the same thickness. If one side is more worn then the other, it means that your caliber is not sliding properly on the pins. More then likely it's not sliding back enough after braking and the inside brake pad is staying in contact longer with the rotor, causing excess wear on that side. The key is making sure that you don't use too much grease on the pins so it doesn't get air bound, but is still fully lubricated so it doesn't rust.

Hi Paul,

I think it is by design
It's true, one side of the rotor is thicker than the other. When I took out the second rear rotor, I noticed the same thing, I measured the thickness with a caliper and it read 16mm.

When I look at the service manual, it listed the thickness of the rear rotor to be 16mm, not sure why they designed it this way.

 

Hi Paul,

I think it is by design
It's true, one side of the rotor is thicker than the other. When I took out the second rear rotor, I noticed the same thing, I measured the thickness with a caliper and it read 16mm.

When I look at the service manual, it listed the thickness of the rear rotor to be 16mm, not sure why they designed it this way.

It's due to wear. When you get your new rotors, you'll see that both sides are equal thickness. I would say that a little too much grease was applied to the caliber glide pins during factory assembly. You'll probably find the same issue in the front.


Reading back thru your posts, I noticed that you stated your back brakes were worn more then the front. This is the exact opposite of the way brakes normally wear. Usually, if you're driving heavy stop and go, you'll replace the front pads at least once before needing to replace the rear pads. Seeing that you mostly drive steady highway speeds, I would expect to see the front worn just a little bit more then the back.


Speaking of the rear pads, looking at the pictures you seem to be showing both new and old pads. Those old pads are not even worn half way, according to the pics, not even near time to change. The OEM pads have two slots for cooling and keeping dust off the rotor. I think that the dealer was looking for money!


Let me know how the front goes and what the wear is.


Oil changes are a breeze using the Fumoto F-103N Engine Oil Drain Valve and a 3' length of 3/8' ID hose. Lets you drain the oil while extremely hot (Carries more dirt out with the oil.) without burning yourself. Here's a link:


https://tinyurl.com/y7yzq2yg


Have a good day.

 

Thanks Paul, I will order a pair rotor for the rear.
Are you familiar with StopTech:
http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/61A2722A0A0.aspx

I will also order a pair of brake caliper for the rear, thinking about the Posi-Quiet, the ones you linked are a little pricey.
Should of thought about this instead of trying to clean the rotors and paint the caliper.

I thought the same thing when I saw the brake pads, didn't think they were that worn out as the technician said, glad I decided to do it myself.

Really like the idea of the valve. Wouldn't the right angle oil change valve with the opening pointing downward be better?

 

Thanks Paul, I will order a pair rotor for the rear.
Are you familiar with StopTech:
StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors | Regular or Cryo | FREE SHIPPING!

I will also order a pair of brake caliper for the rear, thinking about the Posi-Quiet, the ones you linked are a little pricey.
Should of thought about this instead of trying to clean the rotors and paint the caliper.

I thought the same thing when I saw the brake pads, didn't think they were that worn out as the technician said, glad I decided to do it myself.

Really like the idea of the valve. Wouldn't the right angle oil change valve with the opening pointing downward be better?

Unless the piston pad is showing uneven wear, front to back of more then .050 there is no reason to change to caliber, unless it's sticking, causing the pad to drag and over heat the rotor. You'll know if this is happening, you'll smell the pad and see discoloration on the rotor.


I believe that Autoanything is where I purchased the red calibers. I chose those over stock rebuilds because they actually try to avoid piston rock by using different seals that are a little wider and harder. My 2003 Murano suffered from this on four calibers, the rear very badly. My driving style certainly didn't help, but I didn't expect to see the amount of wear when I got my first set of tires at about 40,000 miles. When I pulled the rear apart and saw how uneven the piston side pads had worn, I knew there was an issue with the calibers.


FYI, the front caliber is now a two piston design, so you won't have a piston rock issue with uneven wear. The fronts are still prone to uneven side wear because they also rely on the caliber pins to keep the caliber centered on the rotor.


I had read about Powerstop in a trade mag and how they were improving the calibers by redesigning the pistons and using different seals to lessen the piston rock effect. I called and talked to their support who told me that they were just changing seals and boots with improved material on my model. I bought all 4 calibers and new rotors. There was a total difference in the braking. That pad and rotor set lasted to about 130,000 miles. Because I had used metallic pads, the rotors were pretty well worn so rotors and pads were replaced. I spent about $300.00 and I'm sure that the car will be sold from the family with those brakes, still working fine.


My point being (not just to you) is that sometimes doing a little research and spending a little more up front might save you much more in the long run and have a better quality product/experience.


Not sure if Autoanything has free shipping for the rotors. The link I provided has free shipping for the rotors. I'm sure that you'll love the zinc plated rotors, no rust. I went for the black this time, always got the plain zinc before.


In your case, I would recommend just getting quality rotors. Install them and use a rough sandpaper to brake the glaze on the new pads you just installed. Break them in following the procedure sent with the rotors and you'll be good to go. I'm assuming that your used piston pad is wearing even, couldn't tell from the pic.


I chose this oil drain valve for two reasons. The one that bends could bring the nipple below the level of the oil pan (depends on the threading where it ends up pointing), and would almost hit the shield if it does. Brass is very brittle and anything coming up and hitting the shield at the point could snap the valve off. Getting the hose on could be difficult, again depending what angle the nipple ends up pointing.


I used the straight one to avoid any of these issues. I drilled an 3/4" hole in the shield about 2" back from the nipple to pass the hose thru and then it just slide over the nipple.


Have a good day.

 

I did want to get the red caliper, but I don't like the bright red color, wish they had it in another color.

my calipers are fine, they are just very rusty.

Why did you replaced your brake calipers on your 2017 murano?

This one will do for me also:
Power Stop Autospecialty OE Brake Caliper - FREE SHIPPING!
they also have free shipping

The 2 pistons caliper design on the front tells you that the front has more stopping power than the rear, and thus will wear the pads faster than the rear, I have not looked at the front yet, but I am sure the pads are lower than the rear. I also noticed a squeaking noise coming from the front when braking, but only when I first start the car and braking at very low speed.

 

I did want to get the red caliper, but I don't like the bright red color, wish they had it in another color.

my calipers are fine, they are just very rusty.

Why did you replaced your brake calipers on your 2017 murano?

This one will do for me also:
Power Stop Autospecialty OE Brake Caliper - FREE SHIPPING!
they also have free shipping

The 2 pistons caliper design on the front tells you that the front has more stopping power than the rear, and thus will wear the pads faster than the rear, I have not looked at the front yet, but I am sure the pads are lower than the rear. I also noticed a squeaking noise coming from the front when braking, but only when I first start the car and braking at very low speed.

I really didn't like the red either, but no other choose at the time. I wanted light blue.

If your pads are wearing even, then your calibers don't need replacing. They look sharp now that they're painted silver. Saves you some money too.


I did the same as you, wire brushed and 6 coats of high temp high gloss clear coat on the calibers and brackets.


Squeaking from the pads when cold at low speeds is normal. After warmed up, squeaking can be a cause for concern. The front factory pads have wear indicators what will produce a high pitched sound when braking once your pads wear past about the 85% mark.


Have a good day.

 

Just finished installing my new rotors, replaced all 4 with the slotted version.

This was the first time me doing it; but boy, was it a though job.... Now I understand why mechanics make $150/hr. You have to deal with the smell, the oil, heavy parts, etc...

I must have done something or disrupted some component while installing my rear rotors, now my parking brakes feels lousy and does not stop the car when I am in drive, will have to adjust them.

One question:
1- Should the new pads make contact with the rotors when the brakes are not applied? I mean I can turn the rotor, but I can also hear it rubbing against the rotor... I am thinking maybe because the pads are brand new

2- Do I have to "bed" the new rotors?

 

Just finished installing my new rotors, replaced all 4 with the slotted version.

This was the first time me doing it; but boy, was it a though job.... Now I understand why mechanics make $150/hr. You have to deal with the smell, the oil, heavy parts, etc...

I must have done something or disrupted some component while installing my rear rotors, now my parking brakes feels lousy and does not stop the car when I am in drive, will have to adjust them.

One question:
1- Should the new pads make contact with the rotors when the brakes are not applied? I mean I can turn the rotor, but I can also hear it rubbing against the rotor... I am thinking maybe because the pads are brand new

2- Do I have to "bed" the new rotors?

If you're talking about setting the pads with new rotors, "bedding", that should have been done the very first time you drove the car.


All disc pads are designed to "float" above the rotor when running at speed. They do slightly rub the rotors, which you can hear when turning by hand and at very low speeds.


If you didn't touch anything in the emergency brake setup, including the cable, it should be working fine without any adjustment. I would be pulling one tire and pulling the rotor off and visually inspect the EB shoe setup. If it looks normal, I would check the inside dia. of the EB drum and compare it to the original. If the new drum is larger, install it and remove the rubber plug and using a screwdriver adjust the "star" to expand the brake shoes until they just start to rub the inside drum. Remove the rotor and back the "star" one or two clicks. If this is the case, you'll have to do the same to the other side. When finished, test the EB and it should be back to normal, or even a little tighter. You should not try to resolve this issue by just adjusting the EB cable. If the issue is drum size, adjusting the cable will cause the brake shoes to spread unevenly and not hold has well. EB's work by spreading at the bottom of the shoes, which is the reason you want the top (where the "star" adjuster is) set properly.


Have a good day.

 

I just finished doing my oil change for the first time, can't believe I have been paying my dealer $85 for this.

I bought the oil drain valve as you recommended and it is a life saver, I got the Fumoto F103S. Very easy to install, I won't have to worry about removing the bold on my next oil change. It seat it there pretty low, I have read some reviews that if the valve seats too low, then it might hit the road below. But this is no concern on the murano, as the valve seats pretty high and is also protected by plastic liner.

I used Mobile1 0W-20 extended performance 5qt, and poured the whole container in there, I paired it with mobile1 oil filter.
Before doing the oil change I used Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush to clean the engine.

Will be doing my running board this weekend, I also bought some sun visor from aliexpress I will be installing.

 

I just finished doing my oil change for the first time, can't believe I have been paying my dealer $85 for this.

I bought the oil drain valve as you recommended and it is a life saver, I got the Fumoto F103S. Very easy to install, I won't have to worry about removing the bold on my next oil change. It seat it there pretty low, I have read some reviews that if the valve seats too low, then it might hit the road below. But this is no concern on the murano, as the valve seats pretty high and is also protected by plastic liner.

I used Mobile1 0W-20 extended performance 5qt, and poured the whole container in there, I paired it with mobile1 oil filter.
Before doing the oil change I used Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush to clean the engine.

Will be doing my running board this weekend, I also bought some sun visor from aliexpress I will be installing.

I love the oil valve. I got the one with the nipple. Drilled a 3/4" hole about 2" back thru the plastic shield. I use a clear 1/2" clear hose on the nipple and stick the other end right into a old oil container. Never spill a drop.


I'm told that Nissan oil filters have an anti-flowback valve built in. If you notice your engine starting dry after only a short time setting, you might want to go back to the OEM filter.

Can't wait to see how your running boards come out. Have you located that hole with the foam patch over it on each side? If you have any issues, give me a holler.


Have a good day.

 

What dealer charges $85 for an oil change? I never pay more than $25 at a local Nissan dealership for those (when I don't do it myself, that is).

 

My local Honda dealer charges $105 for oil and filter change!


I will be ready soon for my first oil change on my 2018 Murano. I am past the point of DIY (old fart), as a matter of fact I just threw away my oil can spouts realizing oil doesn’t come in cans anymore!

Dealers are close by but not sure I trust them. I also have a Firestone within walking distance that offers Penzoil synthetic for $50.00. I have been taking our Honda there but they made me mad when they threw away the access cover for the filter. My guess is most places including dealers do this to save them time.

I assume I will just have to find a place I can trust, but there are no guarantees. Any advise?

 

Part of the purchase agreement with my dealer is free oil & filter changes, plus tire rotations for as long as I own the car.

With my 2009 (same dealer), I ended up getting 9 years of oil changes and tire rotations from them. Tire rotations were done when switching over the summer and winter tire/wheel sets, so that worked out well.

Take care!

Jim

 

user8, gone are the days where you could get your oil change for $20.

My dealer charges me $85 for full synthetic oil change + oil disposal fee + tax ( so I end up paying around $90), most of the time I can clip a coupon on their website to save $5, but that's about it. Dealers also used genuine Nissan part so it costs more, and their labor is more expensive.

Phil,
$50 for full synthetic oil change is a very good deal.
If you do the math: synthetic oil (5qt) costs $28 + oil filter $9 that's around $40. And you don't have to worry about getting rid of the used oil. I trust the dealer more than any other shop, at least their work is guarantee.

What is the access cover for the filter?

 

user8

What is the access cover for the filter?

My 2013 CRV had a cover that was a part of the cladding under the vehicle. I assume it was to keep it aerodynamic and protect the filter. After a oil change it was missing. Firestone said the dealer must have left it off. I had 2 oil changes at the dealer but all I know is it was there when the car was new, I saw it.

The Murano has a “Protector” also. Do the dealers replace it or throw it away like Honda dealers apparently do?

 

Thanks Paul,

I have located the hole yet, will see tomorrow.

I will be suprised if mobile1 oil filter, the number 1 engine oil maker in the US would not have a drainback valve.

On top of this, you also get a premium silicone anti-drain back valve which prevents oil from pouring back into the filter when the engine stops. This ensures no dry starts since you’ll always have oil in the engine. There is also a metal bypass valve which is activated if the medium is clogged and can’t provide adequate flow rate to the engine. It’s a common safety you’ll find in almost any filter.

https://www.yourbestpicks.com/best-oil-filters-reviews/

 

FINALLYYYYYYY,

I installed my running boards today.
I have been putting this off for the longest time, because it was intimating for me to do it, specially after I tried to install it the first time, and could not get them in correctly.

But, thanks to Paul, he gave me so much confidence I could do it by myself.
On a scale of 1 to 10 difficulty, I would say 5. The LEDs are another story, I would say 9.

I know why I failed the first time I tried to install them. Basically, you have to remove both mug guards, front and back, in order to push the board in once the brackets are in place, the mug guards are in the way. Once the board is in, replacing the mug guards, you will have to cut them to fit, just the edges.

The running boards look stunning, I love them, makes the car look so sporty, modern, futuristic. I can clearly say, this is one of the best upgrade I did to my car. It doesn't even look like a running board, like those you see on some pickups, it looks like it is part of the car because of the round shape, and it fits perfectly.

Now for the LEDs ( what a pain in the ****)
To route the LEDs cables from the outside of the car to the inside so you can tap into the power, you have to use one of the predilled holes. But unfortunately, mot of those hole underneath the car are used by the metal brackets holding the running board, so you have limited option.
Not sure, if Paul's brackets placement and mine are the same, but the pre-dilled hole from the outside I could use the run the cables lines up with the hole on the inside right by the driver's seat, I could have used that one, but when I put my finger inside to see if I had enough clearance for the cable, there was another piece of metal in there, so I could not use it. The next outside hole that closely lines up with the inside hole was being used by one of the screw brackets. So I had no option but to drill another hole on the outside of the car.
The first hole I tried to drill, I measured it to line up with one of the inside hole. But guess what? Half way into drilling, I found out that there was 2 metal piece I had to go through, and the murano frame is very strong, not easy to drill. So I moved over my hole a little bit over so I would have to drill to only one metal frame. I used a hand drill with some bits I had around, I spend like 30min, and it barely made a dent on the frame, I though maybe my drills aren't meant for metal, so i could not continue drilling. I was going to go to Lowes to get some metal drill, but because of the holiday, they were closed. So I plan to finish drilling next weekend, once I get the new drills from amazon.
I am planning to drill 3/4 inch hole, that should be enough to route my 4 cables inside. Please advise on these drills from amazon:

Here are some pictures as promised, if you are thinking about this upgrade, you will not regret it.
Thanks to Paul again for all the help he provided, I don't think I would have been to do it without your guidance.

I also bought these sun visors ( I thing that's what they call it), the install should be pretty easy, planning on puttin them in next weekend.

 

FINALLYYYYYYY,

I installed my running boards today.
I have been putting this off for the longest time, because it was intimating for me to do it, specially after I tried to install it the first time, and could not get them in correctly.

But, thanks to Paul, he gave me so much confidence I could do it by myself.
On a scale of 1 to 10 difficulty, I would say 5. The LEDs are another story, I would say 9.

I know why I failed the first time I tried to install them. Basically, you have to remove both mug guards, front and back, in order to push the board in once the brackets are in place, the mug guards are in the way. Once the board is in, replacing the mug guards, you will have to cut them to fit, just the edges.

The running boards look stunning, I love them, makes the car look so sporty, modern, futuristic. I can clearly say, this is one of the best upgrade I did to my car. It doesn't even look like a running board, like those you see on some pickups, it looks like it is part of the car because of the round shape, and it fits perfectly.

Now for the LEDs ( what a pain in the ****)
To route the LEDs cables from the outside of the car to the inside so you can tap into the power, you have to use one of the predilled holes. But unfortunately, mot of those hole underneath the car are used by the metal brackets holding the running board, so you have limited option.
Not sure, if Paul's brackets placement and mine are the same, but the pre-dilled hole from the outside I could use the run the cables lines up with the hole on the inside right by the driver's seat, I could have used that one, but when I put my finger inside to see if I had enough clearance for the cable, there was another piece of metal in there, so I could not use it. The next outside hole that closely lines up with the inside hole was being used by one of the screw brackets. So I had no option but to drill another hole on the outside of the car.
The first hole I tried to drill, I measured it to line up with one of the inside hole. But guess what? Half way into drilling, I found out that there was 2 metal piece I had to go through, and the murano frame is very strong, not easy to drill. So I moved over my hole a little bit over so I would have to drill to only one metal frame. I used a hand drill with some bits I had around, I spend like 30min, and it barely made a dent on the frame, I though maybe my drills aren't meant for metal, so i could not continue drilling. I was going to go to Lowes to get some metal drill, but because of the holiday, they were closed. So I plan to finish drilling next weekend, once I get the new drills from amazon.
I am planning to drill 3/4 inch hole, that should be enough to route my 4 cables inside. Please advise on these drills from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Wareho...8HR5JJG9KYS1GNN8&pd_rd_w=jE2EF&pd_rd_wg=niU4V&psc=1&refRID=GQZB8HR5JJG9KYS1GNN8

Here are some pictures as promised, if you are thinking about this upgrade, you will not regret it.
Thanks to Paul again for all the help he provided, I don't think I would have been to do it without your guidance.

I also bought these sun visors ( I thing that's what they call it), the install should be pretty easy, planning on puttin them in next weekend.

Those are the exact same running boards I just had installed, my son put them on, yah a bit of a pain to do, but they don't look half bad,,,,,don't put the little mud flaps back on, hold onto them in case you need them down the road...


I found the running boards a bit cheap, the part that holds the rubber strip, broke in a few places, I had to drill new holes and put in new rivets.


Overall they do look good...


I had to replace the ones my wife took out when she went rock climbing....LOL


I will try to get some pictures and post them as well, but the car is dirty right now.....