[2ndGenMaintainer]

Just thought I would reply here for anyone else in our position. I took my 2019 Murano back to the dealer to have them check the noise again. I noticed that the sound was much worse when cold, so I dropped it off the night before when the temperature was in the teens. On the first drive the tech did not hear anything. I told them to try again or have another tech drive it. Good news is they heard it the second time around and ended up replacing the sway bar bushings. Same issue as peter2788. Finally the front end is quite. Below you can read the work order. I am currently outside of warranty (41,000 mi), but there was no charge since I brought this to their attention a couple times when inside of my warranty.
Hope this helps the forum.

View attachment 54635

Very nice!! Glad they took care of you too. Makes it one of the good dealers.

For what its worth there is another common issue to keep your eye out for in the future. Its the strut mounts, more importantly the nut that tightens down the whole sassembly in the middle top. People have been reporting that they become loose over time and hear tapping noises when going over bumps,curbs or even those small reflectors on the road. I had the issue myself. I ended up having to replace instead of just tighten them as my left front was so rusted out on top. The right front was fine but ofcourses I changed them both. Noise is gone. What ended up happening is the weather stripping along that side of the windshield had become sun beaten and warpedto where it would let rain water down on top of the strut causing it to rust over time. The struts mount down under the wiper cowel. I bought KYB and had an alignment done.

 

[jamesg]

Has anyone actually changed them themselves, I can get to all bolts except passenger front, socket will not go down all way.

 

[jamesg]

Yeah I remember I mentioned the sway bar a couple months ago and you said the dealer looked at them and they said they were fine. Ive been watching this thread just biting my tongue,, but I'm glad they finally confirmed it for you.. I bought links for $30 a piece and the stabilizer bushings were $10 a piece. Did the work myself.

How did you get to the passenger front bolt, cant get the socket to slip down on.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

How did you get to the passenger front bolt, cant get the socket to slip down on.

The sway bar bushings? Its been a while cant remember having and hard time with it. I probably went for a wrench method if there wasnt enough clearance.

 

[jamesg]

The sway bar bushings? Its been a while cant remember having and hard time with it. I probably went for a wrench method if there wasnt enough clearance.

I cannot even see how you could wrench it, tried again today on front passenger and could not get a grip on it.

 

[Pilgrim]

How did you get to the passenger front bolt, cant get the socket to slip down on.

Got a photo? It's hard to picture the problem. What about a box end wrench?

 

[jamesg]

Got a photo? It's hard to picture the problem. What about a box end wrench?

Ill try again when wifes gone next week and get a pick

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Ill try again when wifes gone next week and get a pick

Is it this side? Passenger you said right?

Passenger side wheel well. Remove the plasic well parts in the way. Have replacement rivets or leave off until you do.

Edit:Then ratchet with a shorti extension/or deep socket should work.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Is it this side? Passenger you said right?


Edit:Then ratchet with a shorti extension/or deep socket should work.

Edit:

Or an offset wrench if you have one or all of these things. If your hands dont fit, maybe try using a cheater pipe to extend the handle of whatever you useto where you can articulate the bolt loose.

 

[Pilgrim]

Yes, it looks like the bolt on the left can be accessed with a wrench - the one on the right might require a wrench with an offset in the handle. I see two possibilities:

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/combination-wrenches-wrench-sets/metric/professional-s-shaped-metric-wrench-set-5-piece-56773.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/combination-wrenches-wrench-sets/metric/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html

Another possibility might be to get a socket from a pawn shop and grind off enough of the socket to get it on the bolt head...but some measuring would be required.

There's a way to do it. You might have to get a factory service manual and see if other parts have to be removed to get at one or both.

 

[jamesg]

The longer socket presses against the side of the Pinion bar I believe is what is right next to it so the socket sits on and angle and does not go down fully onto the bolt allowing the socket to slip.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

The longer socket presses against the side of the Pinion bar I believe is what is right next to it so the socket sits on and angle and does not go down fully onto the bolt allowing the socket to slip.

What about trying an open end wrench and reaching from the front and under the rack/pinion. You probably will only get small turns on the bolt until its losse enough the get out by hand.

 

[Cryogenix1]

I think what @Pilgrim said is sound advice. You may need to remove other parts or use a specially made socket to get it out. If you use a wrench to remove it you won't be able to torque that bolt during re-installation. Some things should be torqued to spec.

 

[Pilgrim]

I think what @Pilgrim said is sound advice. You may need to remove other parts or use a specially made socket to get it out. If you use a wrench to remove it you won't be able to torque that bolt during re-installation. Some things should be torqued to spec.

That's a good point about torque. However, then it comes to bolts like those I suspect the correct torque can be achieved with the "tighten the bejeezuz out of it" approach. From the view provided, I don't think there's a way to get a torque wrench on either one without a substantial teardown.

 

[Cryogenix1]

I wonder if there's a rubber plug along that floorboard area that you remove to gain access to the bolt.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

The longer socket presses against the side of the Pinion bar I believe is what is right next to it so the socket sits on and angle and does not go down fully onto the bolt allowing the socket to slip.

Incase you end up needing it i attached a screenshot of what i found in the service manual. Heres a link to the manual home page if you do not already have one. It does seem like these manuals go a little overboard on parts removed to gain access.
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html

Edit: If you look at the 2hole strap that holds down the stabilizer, one of the holes is slotted. If you remove the strap on the drivers side first, you could just loosen up the slotted half of the strap on the passenger-side then slide the entire stabilizer back and out from under the bolt with the strap as one piece theoretically. Now that i think about it, i think thats what i did way back when. Torque spec is in the photo as a symbol with the spec next to it.

 

[jamesg]

Got some stubby impact sockets and they were just small enough to allow me to loosen the front one off ok. Thanks for all the replies you have helped me incredibly. Looking at the old ones the dealer may have been looking for some extra cash because they don't look bas at all and the vehicle only has 80,000 km or 48.000 miles. No signs of hardening or wear, but for 60 bucks and a few new tools and all your help its done. Just loosened the front two bolts a bit, removed the rears and slid bar back, popped off brackets and removed the bushings, cleaned slipped on new ones and slid the brackets back forward, only had to remove 2 tires none of the other mentioned work got fronts from wheel well and rears from under.
Link to Stubbies I purchased

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set, Metric - Amazon Canada

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set in Metric.

www.amazon.ca

Also A necessity (flex head a must)

3/8 in. dr Extra-Long Flex-Head Ratchet

 

[jamesg]

Here are theoriginals, cant see how they deemed they were level 2 wear. Not even sure what level 2 wear id as there was no movement in the bar when tested and they are in very good shape. No cracking or rubber tear and the centers are good.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Got some stubby impact sockets and they were just small enough to allow me to loosen the front one off ok. Thanks for all the replies you have helped me incredibly. Looking at the old ones the dealer may have been looking for some extra cash because they don't look bas at all and the vehicle only has 80,000 km or 48.000 miles. No signs of hardening or wear, but for 60 bucks and a few new tools and all your help its done. Just loosened the front two bolts a bit, removed the rears and slid bar back, popped off brackets and removed the bushings, cleaned slipped on new ones and slid the brackets back forward, only had to remove 2 tires none of the other mentioned work got fronts from wheel well and rears from under.
Link to Stubbies I purchased

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set, Metric - Amazon Canada

MIXPOWER 3/8" Drive Low Profile Stubby Impact Socket Set with Storage Rails, 14-Piece, 6 Point, 6-19mm, CR-V, Metric, Nano Impact Socket Set in Metric.

www.amazon.ca

Oh good! I didnt know you only had 48k miles on it. I didnt start seeing wear til like 70-80k. Did you have a clunking noise or anything?

Also thanks for the list of tools needed. Ill be sure to refer back to it.

 

[Cryogenix1]

Those bushings look great to me. What problems are you having? If clunking, maybe it's a control arm/subframe bushing or bad/loose transmission/motor mount. If clicking, I'd check the sway bar links.