dual 12 inch shallow IB Flats, kicker amp, Audio Control LC2i... all hidden. Sound deadener on order

 

Hi Shawn,

This is what you are looking for, PIN #1 on this 20 PIN connector, you can trace it back to the trunk where the BOSE AMP was installed. Try to see if you can buzz it out with a multimeter with the connector that connects to the AMP, and splice your RMT TURN ON wire there.

I have installed an amp recently, but mine went under the driver's seat and I tap into the cig lighter 12V for my RMT TURN ON.

 

Thanks Assad, just knowing white alone helps a bunch.

 

It should be PIN #20 on the second amp connector ( see below ), not sure why it says output, I would think it would be INPUT since it is to turn on the AMP, try to see if you get 12V when car is power on on that PIN and 0V when car is off.
I don't have the Bose, so I cannot verify.

You can look at the av.pdf document page 110-111 for the amp pinout.

 

That's what I thought, it is an input to the bose amp as the diagram shows below. It is coming directly from the head unit. It would be PIN#1 on the head unit and PIN #20 on the Bose amp.

 

thanks again

 

Anyone have the needed specs to replace just that amp?

 

when your adding a amp for subs you can use the lc21. if you want to put back all the frequencies that these new data comunication setups do you need to go higher. this is what you want if you want to do probably the cheapest tunable all frequency setup to boost door wires and what not. LCQ-1. you can get much more expensive but it really wont be a DIY deal then.

 

Nice install BTW, I am guessing here the piece of the puzzle is the Audio Control LC2i in case you want to keep your original head unit and use a different amp.

I have seen a lot of people wanting to replace their Bose amp in this forum, so this would be a good reference as to how you did it.

Let us know how it goes...

 

when your adding a amp for subs you can use the lc21. if you want to put back all the frequencies that these new data comunication setups do you need to go higher. this is what you want if you want to do probably the cheapest tunable all frequency setup to boost door wires and what not. LCQ-1. you can get much more expensive but it really wont be a DIY deal then. time delay if your a audiophile... DQ-61

 

For the bose units in the 2015 and up Muranos what exactly is powering what? Theres a 4 channel amp under the back seat? is that just powering the door speakers (and associated tweeter on the windshield? what powers the sub in the back and the three speakers on the flat part of the dash?

 

Hi upinsmoke,

Below is the answer to your question (av.pdf / page 82); see attachment below:

WITH BOSE SYSTEM
WITH BOSE SYSTEM : BOSE Amp
• BOSE amp. is located in the rear cargo area.
• It receives sound signal from AV control unit and outputs sound
signal to each speaker, tweeter, and subwoofer.

 

so basically i need need a 8 channel amp for the bose system?

4 channels for the doors / 3 for the dash speakers / 1 for the sub?

Also seems like I would need a dsp amp of some kind to filter out the tuning and eq for the bose output.

 

thanks again Assad. where is the av.pdf for download? Would love to check that out.

 

No you don't,

You just need a 5 channel amp, 4 channels for the door, and 1 for your sub.

There is 1 center speaker (1 channel), but you will loose that one, you really do not need it if you are going with an aftermarket amp.

Refer to the diagram below:
You can find av.pdf here:
Index of /FSM/Murano/2015 Murano

 

hmmm ok I'm confused. There are two instrument panel tweeters and a center. The two side panel windshield tweeters (separate from the instrument panel tweeters) would be fed from a single channel feeding that and the associated mid in the front door for each side? Something like that?

 

You also do not need any DSP amp or that sort

The Bose Unit outputs are PRE-AMP (see below), so they can hook up directly to your aftermarket amp.

You will need to buy these (4 total) to connect to your new amp.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B8EJYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

 

You are right, I did not see that.

So you have 3 sets of speakers for the Mids and High.
The center speaker and the instrument panel tweeter are the same and output the mid and high.
The sound coming from the Bose head unit will output the full range of frequencies, it is the Bose amp that will separate those frequencies into the different sets of speakers.

I haven't seen any aftermarket amp that does it the way Bose does it.

you have 2 option:
1- This will be a complete overhaul of your sound system, you can replace the amp and the speakers all together and just keep the head unit.
2- You can replace the amp, keep the Bose Front (woofer + tweeter) and the Rear speakers, then get rid of the 3 centers ( center + instrument tweeter).

Both option only need a 5 channel amp.

Here is the way the Bose works:

Front tweeter (x2) = high
Front speaker (x2) = mid
Center (x1) = mid and high
Instrument Tweeter (x2) = mid and high
Rear speaker (x2) = low, mid and high
Subwoofer (x1) = low

Never seen a setup like this before, I guess Bose engineers have figured that the best sound would be this setup.

Which makes it harder to use any after market amp or speakers.

 

Yea, the more I dig into this the more of a mess it's becoming. Bose really throws a monkey wrench into the picture. I've been making some calls and emails and it seems it's not as easy as just a straight swap for the best sound in the MO. There is sound shaping that is being done by the headunit then that signal is sent to the amp that splits it off to the respective speakers. The sound shaping is to compensate for what crappy speakers they use. Given the poor quality it actually does an OK job and for most is probably fine.

Replacing the speakers really does require a new amp. While the new speakers and amp will sound better than the stock (and probably by a significant margin) you need something to deequalize and remove the spacial timing queues that are being inserted by the Bose tweaking, It starts to get pricey at this point .

Audison makes amps (along with companies like Helix) that can be used to do this and can hook up a laptop and completely tune the entire sound of the vehicle. Unfortunately an 8 channel amp is about a grand. The AP8.9 is the one that was being recommended to me. I still have a lot of reading and research into this. Also this is starting to get out of the realm I'm feeling uncomfortable about doing on my own. Dynamat and swapping some speakers is no big deal but tuning starts to get in a whole different realm. I may just bite the bullet and go for the whole enchilada. IDK.

I'm going to stop in their shop and take a listen to some demos they have. Figured I'd ask about cost to dynamat the doors (100/door including material). 50/pop for each door for speakers. Owner was telling me what they do to the door which would be way over what I was planning - complete interior and exterior skin, securing and damping everything in the door including wiring harnesses.

The woofer in the tire I' still up in the air about. I can drive that from the new amp and have them tune that using the existing speakers in that assembly. I don't go for the thump thump thump down the road sound so think I can get away with that. Also after mapping you can save the config as a baseline and tune away with your own laptop to your hearts content. Even if you screw it up you can put the baseline back on and no harm no foul.

 

Also going to add that I know from home use that sound shaping can have some huge increases in sound quality. Products like Audesey and such in home theater does miracles between on/off. In a car which is even more of a nightmare for sound with the different surfaces/reflections I could see it having an even bigger effect.

I may just go with the doors matted/speakers first and then the amp later. IDK

 

Good info!

Never heard of sound shaping before... If your source file is compressed, such as MP3, then it makes sense. But for a CD, I don't see the benefits.

I heard of something similar called Clari-Fi, that Infinity uses in their top of the line amplifiers. It basically tries to restore the compressed audio to its original format, but I don't know how much of a difference it makes, and you have the option to turn it off. Some car such as KIA, put Clari-Fi in their head unit, but you still can disable it.

Sound is very subjective, I would rather have the option to fine tune the sound quality myself, especially if using an amp.

 

its the frequencies, delays and eq'ing they do to try and make crap speakers sound better. Personally I'd rather do without any but difficult sound environments can benefit greatly from it. At home my Anthem receiver works it magic in some really reflective surroundings and its day/night difference on and off. Car is the same way. See how persuasive they are in person and what deal I can work out.

 

well narrowing it down and its ending up a lot more than I expected. So going to do in stages. Going to soundproof all four doors with Stinger Roadkill Expert. Install the Focal speakers in the doors. Going with Hertz DCX130.3 3" for the three speakers in the dash and see how it sounds. If ok, going to leave it be till next year and then figure out the amp situation which I'll pay an installer to do. I'm thinking either Kenwood Extreme or Audison 8.9 - haven't decided on that one yet.

 

Interesting...
You would be the first to it with the Bose sound system

 

To me its just painful listening to it as is. I had a very good system in my last car, a great one at home so going from one from the other is nails on the chalkboard.

Theres quite a bit of sound that comes from the dash speakers and I picked up the Hertz 87.3 speakers last night to put in. I'll do that sometime this weekend. After the kid heads off to college in a few weeks I'll work on the doors and it gives me more time to figure out what to do for amps. I'm thinking either the Audison (probably the best choice but most $$$), or Kenwood / Focal / JL Audio Slash amps - IDK. Audison would be the easiest with 8 channels but is $1000 for just the amp (no install cost in that number and an hour of an automated system tuning , proprietary mic rig Audison has for it). The Kenwood / Focal / JL would just need a summing / de - eq box with it too - and more than one amp to do all 8 speakers.

 

@upinsmoke, did you succeed with the speaker changes? I'm interested in what you think of the Hertz dash speakers? I need to do something with the stupid Bose speakers. Looked at Infinity Kappa but they seem to be 3 1/2" and maybe too big for the dash cutout?

Thanks!

 

@upinsmoke, did you succeed with the speaker changes? I'm interested in what you think of the Hertz dash speakers? I need to do something with the stupid Bose speakers. Looked at Infinity Kappa but they seem to be 3 1/2" and maybe too big for the dash cutout?

Thanks!

I keep meaning to write something up for this and never seem to find the time. Between work and home I've been swamped.

I never ended up using the Hertz speakers. I went with a 3 way active Focal Flax speaker setup in the front - 2 tweets in the A arms, left and right speakers in dash replaced with mids and midbass in the doors. Rear doors had the speakers replaced with 2 way Focal Flax speakers. There was some opening up on the dash to fit the bigger 3" mids (2.7"? were stock).

Replacing the speakers alone did nothing to really help the sound. EQ changes being done by the Bose amp completely ruined the sound (also going to 3 way in the front wouldnt really work with what was factory).

Adding the JL amp and JL TWK allowed me to go to a full active setup and even with no tuning done at that point its amazing the difference. Even XM radio (which was horrible to start) sounds decent.

The center channel is now completely disabled. Using the TWK I was able to try different configurations and playing around with the delay was able to created a profile that had a "ghost" center channel. To be honest it sounded significantly better taking it out of the picture and going back to a more L/R front setup instead of speakers L/C/R.

BTW all of the warnings/beeps/navigation work fine. There was no CANBUS info being sent to the Bose amp so it was a complete snip and gone from the configuration.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

The quality of the Bose system is so underwhelming that I fear I will have to rip it out at some point. It’s so bad, it’s depressing.

 

Don't rip it out yet. Take a look at this:


Axxess AX_DSP 31 band DSP graphic equalizer.


This plugs in at the back of the radio between the amp. Fire up your phone to connect thru Bluetooth and you have a full graphic equalizer to play with.


I've already ordered this, along with the required T-harness for the 2015+ Murano with Bose/Navagation setup. It's been on back-order for several weeks now. Once it arrives, the following Sunday it will be installed. I'll be posting a full video of the install and before and after audio results.


Have a good day.

 

Great write up! Yep, I just purchased a CPO '16 Murano SL AWD w/Nav and am infuriated with the Bose system. This may sound funny, but behind our kids, metal and music in general is most important to me and my wife. This sound system lacks any sound richness or clarity. It sounds like the system is muzzled. I have compared the same song via CD, Bluetooth, and USB...they all equally suck. All vehicles we purchase must have premium sound systems. Have driven several vehicles with Bose systems, and this is the first one that imo severely underperforms to the point where I will do something about it. Am actually drafting a letter to Bose. The marketing brochure billed the system as a ' Premium Bose Audio System with AM/FM/CD and 11 speakers, including dual subwoofers'. This is not a premium sound system, and my letter will include a demand for them to make it a premium system, whether it means replacing their amp or paying me to get it done myself. If I have to get it done myself, will your fix render the steering wheel controls or overall functionality of the head unit and nav system useless?

 

If you install the Axxess DSP and harness, should the amp be replaced, too?

 

No, the DSP put's back the equalization (And more!) that Bose has removed in the latest gen head units. My 2003 Murano with Bose radio had Treble/Mid/Bass and a "Bass Boost - Low/Med/Hi" in the audio settings.


I'm vastly disappointed with the current Bose unit in my 2017.5 Murano. Totally different sound quality between the two cars. Both cars have the exact same woofer setup, but the bass response is totally different, the 2017 has none! All you have is Treble and Bass for audio adjustment.


The AX-DSP, with it's 31 band equalizer and time/phase shifting, should resolve 90% of the audio issues with the current Bose system.


After the AX-DSP install I still plan on replacing the door speakers and doing the woofer upgrade with a 200 watt amp. I'm just holding off until after the AX-DSP installation so that I have a true picture of the sound quality that the AX-DSP provides by itself.


Have good day.

 

Thanks for the info Paul. You and Assad have made some very cool mods to your vehicles.

As I indicated earlier, the only two things I am passionate about are my kids and my music...I will be absolutely relentless with Bose and/or Nissan to compensate me for whatever I need to do in order to get what they call a Premium system up to speed...that is false marketing on both their parts imo. There are too many companies these days marketing products that fail to live up to the marketing spin. I cannot allow them to keep doing that.