Tyler_Canada
You can try with www.jtaudioacc.com I ordered mine using a Costa Rican Credit Card by phone which is not usual, I have an adress in Florida so they will ship it there, if they accepted the outside credit card I think they can ship out the US.
I love it
Now I can listen to my Sat and music keg like its supposed to be listened to.I have a KENWOOD KTC-SR902 SIRIUS SATELLITE Tuner,a kenwood music keg and a kenwood KCA-R71FM .I bypassed the fm modulator and hooked into the rca sat adapter.I works great .See my previous post for Pics...I answered my own question.For those of you thinking about adding sat radio this is definitly the way to go because you can add the music keg or any other kenwood cd changer.http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1725&perpage=15&pagenumber=3
Now I can listen to my Sat and music keg like its supposed to be listened to.I have a KENWOOD KTC-SR902 SIRIUS SATELLITE Tuner,a kenwood music keg and a kenwood KCA-R71FM .I bypassed the fm modulator and hooked into the rca sat adapter.I works great .See my previous post for Pics...I answered my own question.For those of you thinking about adding sat radio this is definitly the way to go because you can add the music keg or any other kenwood cd changer.http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1725&perpage=15&pagenumber=3
I have the AAI-NIS on my website listed at $89.95. But I will give it to anyone on this forum for $80.generator said:
On the check out page, just enter "murano" when it asks for discount code. Without the quotes.
AAI-NIS available here:http://www.virtualo.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=63
Thanks,
Mark
murano@virtualoutlook.net
www.virtualo.net
This site is not mine, but it is well structured... Good Luck
http://members.rogers.com/muran0/Main.htm
http://members.rogers.com/muran0/Main.htm
Thanks! That's my site...
Courier tried to deliver my Pac unit today, but I wasn't there. I expect I'll get it monday...
Courier tried to deliver my Pac unit today, but I wasn't there. I expect I'll get it monday...
Out of the packaging, here's what you get...
The red wire goes to the harness jumper. You pull out one plug on the radio, insert the jumper and put the plug back into the other end of the jumper. This gets you +12 volts to run the interface.
The other connector goes into the sat interface. On a 2003 with no harness, you plug it in. On a 2004, you carefully remove the connector for the Sat harness and put this in it's place.
ALWAYS remove these connectors by pressing on the release tab and pulling on the shell. I've heard of two times where the wires have been pulled on and the person pulling, ended up with a fistful of wires and the connector shell still in the radio. Yes, it's a pain to figure out where they go back in. Yes, it is possible to short out something doing this.
The three loose wires are for selecting external device power to power a relay for Aux 1 or Aux 2 and the last is for communication to the SWI-X interface for the G35 and 350Z.
Oh, don't be surprised if you lose your presets when you install this. I haven't confirmed this, but you do remove power to the radio in the process of installation.
The red wire goes to the harness jumper. You pull out one plug on the radio, insert the jumper and put the plug back into the other end of the jumper. This gets you +12 volts to run the interface.
The other connector goes into the sat interface. On a 2003 with no harness, you plug it in. On a 2004, you carefully remove the connector for the Sat harness and put this in it's place.
ALWAYS remove these connectors by pressing on the release tab and pulling on the shell. I've heard of two times where the wires have been pulled on and the person pulling, ended up with a fistful of wires and the connector shell still in the radio. Yes, it's a pain to figure out where they go back in. Yes, it is possible to short out something doing this.
The three loose wires are for selecting external device power to power a relay for Aux 1 or Aux 2 and the last is for communication to the SWI-X interface for the G35 and 350Z.
Oh, don't be surprised if you lose your presets when you install this. I haven't confirmed this, but you do remove power to the radio in the process of installation.
Attachments
jaak you mentioned this:
The thing is when I want to use the PAC I loose a programmed Preset on the radio. So if I want to use Aux 1, I have to be on Preset A and press SAT button then it works. Now for Aux 2, I have to go to Preset B and press SAT. - then I get sound from that. And also I can go to preset C and Press SAT and get an Aux 3, even though there is none. But when I do this Presets A and/or B are SAT now and not radio, untill I hit AM/FM botton.
Basically my mode bottun does not switch to the PAC without me loosing A or B Preset and then setting it back. Is this because I didnt hook up the 2 extra wires? And if so where do they go?
Now is there any specific place to plug these or splice these 2 wires into. I have the PAC hooked up without the two wires mentioned there.
The thing is when I want to use the PAC I loose a programmed Preset on the radio. So if I want to use Aux 1, I have to be on Preset A and press SAT button then it works. Now for Aux 2, I have to go to Preset B and press SAT. - then I get sound from that. And also I can go to preset C and Press SAT and get an Aux 3, even though there is none. But when I do this Presets A and/or B are SAT now and not radio, untill I hit AM/FM botton.
Basically my mode bottun does not switch to the PAC without me loosing A or B Preset and then setting it back. Is this because I didnt hook up the 2 extra wires? And if so where do they go?
I just got mine minutes ago, so I've not hooked it up yet...
I'll have to look at this when I can try it.
The two wires are for source selection. When Aux 1 is enabled, the Blue/Red wire goes low or to ground. So this would power a relay for control of the external device's power, if desired, or any other use you want. The same for Aux 2.
Reading the instructions, it looks like what you describe, is how it works. You lose the first preset on Sat A/B and that's how you select between the two inputs.
I'll try it sometime this week and see what it does on mine.
I'll have to look at this when I can try it.
The two wires are for source selection. When Aux 1 is enabled, the Blue/Red wire goes low or to ground. So this would power a relay for control of the external device's power, if desired, or any other use you want. The same for Aux 2.
Reading the instructions, it looks like what you describe, is how it works. You lose the first preset on Sat A/B and that's how you select between the two inputs.
I'll try it sometime this week and see what it does on mine.
I notice that each Aux set has a left and right. When plugging in my mp3 player, which would I use, or do I somehow use both?
Also, if we lose Presets A and B, I guess we can still Preset C right? Hmmm, I will need to find a way to whittle my station count down to 6.
Also, if we lose Presets A and B, I guess we can still Preset C right? Hmmm, I will need to find a way to whittle my station count down to 6.
Try this from R/S
![Image]()
You need one for each AUX input, so if you want to use both, you need two of these cables. One for the iPod and one for the iPaq...
You need one for each AUX input, so if you want to use both, you need two of these cables. One for the iPod and one for the iPaq...
Funny, I was on the radio shack site looking at that exact item when I got the email announcement of a new post.jaak said:Try this from R/S
![Image]()
You need one for each AUX input, so if you want to use both, you need two of these cables. One for the iPod and one for the iPaq...
On another note - with this aux harness in place, how are you going to use your SAT radio? After all you were one of the folks who pioneered installing SAT into a "non-SAT capable" 2003.
Right now they won't live together, but it is possible with modification.
Hey Eric, happy you remembered the pioneer. As far as I'm aware, I am the first to put Sat in the Murano, outside of one guy I know who confirmed it worked, about a week before I was about to try and the parts were on the way. He has a friend at Nissan that quietly put it in for him and told him "SHHHHHH.... Don't tell anyone it works!"
I remember figuring out how to do a harness a couple of months before I actually did it. I got so frustrated waiting for someone else to do it, I caved in and bought the parts. Plus there were a lot of upset people with that "Non-functional" SAT button.
Hey Eric, happy you remembered the pioneer. As far as I'm aware, I am the first to put Sat in the Murano, outside of one guy I know who confirmed it worked, about a week before I was about to try and the parts were on the way. He has a friend at Nissan that quietly put it in for him and told him "SHHHHHH.... Don't tell anyone it works!"
I remember figuring out how to do a harness a couple of months before I actually did it. I got so frustrated waiting for someone else to do it, I caved in and bought the parts. Plus there were a lot of upset people with that "Non-functional" SAT button.
I am a moldy oldie here, I remember everything. I even asked once to be a moderator since i read every post anyways, but no response...hmmm....jaak said:
I guess now we'll all wait for you to come up with a jumper harness to add the SAT back on so it can live happily with the aux inputs.
Hey Eric, there's an informal group of folks that are prime candidates to be a mod, and you're in it. Right now, we're fine though, but it changes with time. I never expected to be one myself, but people move on! It's not something that you ask for, it's more based on what you do already and when the time's right, are asked of...
As far as making the interface work, I already have a good idea of how to do it, but my biggest problem is time. Otherwise, the one in the picture below, would have been done already!
I could finish mine, or I could modify the Pac version. I kind of like the modify the Pac version better. That could be done with just some programming. ("Just" he says, like that's easy...)
The funny thing, is my concept and design, is along the same path as the Pac one. But theirs is built!
As far as making the interface work, I already have a good idea of how to do it, but my biggest problem is time. Otherwise, the one in the picture below, would have been done already!
I could finish mine, or I could modify the Pac version. I kind of like the modify the Pac version better. That could be done with just some programming. ("Just" he says, like that's easy...)
The funny thing, is my concept and design, is along the same path as the Pac one. But theirs is built!
Attachments
Jaak,
I am very interested in building on the serial lines from the SAT interface for communicating with specifically a serial port on a PC. I am thinking more along the lines of controlling media apps on a PC using the info transmitted over these lines. The acid question is as follows: Have you figured out the form of the data sent out over this line when radio or steering controls are used ? If yes can you please share this info and I am more than willing to spend some processor cycles on coding this up to interface a serial port on a PC ,, waiting your response ..
I am very interested in building on the serial lines from the SAT interface for communicating with specifically a serial port on a PC. I am thinking more along the lines of controlling media apps on a PC using the info transmitted over these lines. The acid question is as follows: Have you figured out the form of the data sent out over this line when radio or steering controls are used ? If yes can you please share this info and I am more than willing to spend some processor cycles on coding this up to interface a serial port on a PC ,, waiting your response ..
Yes, PM me and let's get talking..
If you're into writing PC code, the hardware is fairly minimal to modify a serial port to talk to the radio.
If you're into writing PC code, the hardware is fairly minimal to modify a serial port to talk to the radio.
hey jaak,
I'm thinking about installing the PAC unit in my car (03 with Bose but no Sat receiver) and I went to your site to check out how to dismantle the radio, but all your pics are missing.
Looked like it is very in depth, but without the pics, I have no idea what you're describing in the instructions. Is it possible to update the pics? Or might you know a good place to get a similar breakdown of the radio removal.
No biggie either way, I realize you're busy with other stuff, but I just wanted to ask.
Looks like I'm one of the very few that can actually use this item without any issues (don't need the Sat radio with my iPod!)
I'm thinking about installing the PAC unit in my car (03 with Bose but no Sat receiver) and I went to your site to check out how to dismantle the radio, but all your pics are missing.
Looked like it is very in depth, but without the pics, I have no idea what you're describing in the instructions. Is it possible to update the pics? Or might you know a good place to get a similar breakdown of the radio removal.
No biggie either way, I realize you're busy with other stuff, but I just wanted to ask.
Looks like I'm one of the very few that can actually use this item without any issues (don't need the Sat radio with my iPod!)
Yeah, it's time for me to do an update...
By the way, I like the PAC interface, I even bought one myself. And for those that would like to use it, but also be able to read the controls from your radio, there's an extremely simple RS232 recieve only interface, you can build to get those commands. I'll document that, eventually, in another thread...
There's something funny about the links that aren't compatible with all browsers. I'd like to know which browser you're using, as I see all the pics on two different machines, both using MS browsers.
But I know what it's like, when it doesn't work!
So here it is...
Radio Removal
Last updated 27-February 04
Some pictures of how to remove the Radio in the Murano.
NOTE: Before removing the radio, eject all the CD's and lock the CD auto-changer.
To lock the CD changer:
Turn off the ignition and wait until the display is off and the changer internals are no longer making a noise.
Press one disc selection button (any from 1-6) once and when something appears on the display, press that same button again for 5 seconds.
You should hear the mechanism lock itself within 10 seconds. Your radio is now ready for removal.
To get to the screws that hold the radio in place, you must first remove the Central Ventilator and the Instrument Stay Covers.
To remove the Central Ventilator cover use a plastic pry bar and gently lift at points A and A followed by points B, B and B. This may also be able to be done by hand, but it's not easy.
![Image]()
The cover is retained roughly where the blue X's are located.
To remove the instrument stay covers, gently pry down at the location shown by the red arrow in the following diagram.
This cover is already out a little, as you can see by the gap from the dash.
![Image]()
The left and right side covers come down the same way and are interlocked. Expect them to come apart from each other when you remove them.
There is a lamp for the tray, which can be disconnected from the cover, by pinching the connector and pulling it out.
Once the covers are all off, the screws can be removed that hold in the assembly.
Put something on your console to protect it before removal. This will allow you to rest the radio while disconnecting the connectors on the back. I used a large mapbook but a piece of corrugated cardboard would work well.
Two screws at the top need to be removed...
![Image]()
On each side, either two or one screw (depending on your Murano) also need to be removed.
![Image]()
At this point, you can pull the radio out.
You may need to put on the parking brake and move the shifter back to L for more room. Unlock the ignition, move it back and then turn it off again.
BE SURE YOU HAVE THE PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED!
By the way, I like the PAC interface, I even bought one myself. And for those that would like to use it, but also be able to read the controls from your radio, there's an extremely simple RS232 recieve only interface, you can build to get those commands. I'll document that, eventually, in another thread...
There's something funny about the links that aren't compatible with all browsers. I'd like to know which browser you're using, as I see all the pics on two different machines, both using MS browsers.
But I know what it's like, when it doesn't work!
So here it is...
Radio Removal
Last updated 27-February 04
Some pictures of how to remove the Radio in the Murano.
NOTE: Before removing the radio, eject all the CD's and lock the CD auto-changer.
To lock the CD changer:
Turn off the ignition and wait until the display is off and the changer internals are no longer making a noise.
Press one disc selection button (any from 1-6) once and when something appears on the display, press that same button again for 5 seconds.
You should hear the mechanism lock itself within 10 seconds. Your radio is now ready for removal.
To get to the screws that hold the radio in place, you must first remove the Central Ventilator and the Instrument Stay Covers.
To remove the Central Ventilator cover use a plastic pry bar and gently lift at points A and A followed by points B, B and B. This may also be able to be done by hand, but it's not easy.
The cover is retained roughly where the blue X's are located.
To remove the instrument stay covers, gently pry down at the location shown by the red arrow in the following diagram.
This cover is already out a little, as you can see by the gap from the dash.
The left and right side covers come down the same way and are interlocked. Expect them to come apart from each other when you remove them.
There is a lamp for the tray, which can be disconnected from the cover, by pinching the connector and pulling it out.
Once the covers are all off, the screws can be removed that hold in the assembly.
Put something on your console to protect it before removal. This will allow you to rest the radio while disconnecting the connectors on the back. I used a large mapbook but a piece of corrugated cardboard would work well.
Two screws at the top need to be removed...
On each side, either two or one screw (depending on your Murano) also need to be removed.
At this point, you can pull the radio out.
You may need to put on the parking brake and move the shifter back to L for more room. Unlock the ignition, move it back and then turn it off again.
BE SURE YOU HAVE THE PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED!
From the Murano Audio Project thread, but relevant to those using the Pac Audio interface:
For those of you that don't want a complete interface and just want to detect the radio controls from the Bose while still using your Pac interface, here's what you do...
Build a simple RS-232 level converter, using a Maxim Max232 series IC. Only use the Rx side of the RS-232. You may need to do level conversion, as this is TTL in (5 volts) This can be accomplished with a pull up resistor to 5 volts and a diode to allow the Radio's TX line to pull it to ground. You only need to make a connection to ground, power and regulate it to 5 volts for the IC and the Radio's TX connection.
Then you need to detect the following command strings (This is all in Hex)
Tune Right
10 02 36 C0 00 00 10 03 E5 04
Tune Left
10 02 36 C1 00 00 10 03 E4 04
Tune Knob Left
10 02 36 C2 01 00 10 03 E6 04
Tune Knob Right
10 02 36 C3 01 00 10 03 E7 04
Track Right
10 02 36 C8 00 00 10 03 ED 04
Track Left
10 02 36 C9 00 00 10 03 EC 04
Remember, receive at 9600, 8, E, 1.
You will receive much more data than this, but the key is to basically ignore the rest of it, and capture these, and then you know what's going on....
For those of you that don't want a complete interface and just want to detect the radio controls from the Bose while still using your Pac interface, here's what you do...
Build a simple RS-232 level converter, using a Maxim Max232 series IC. Only use the Rx side of the RS-232. You may need to do level conversion, as this is TTL in (5 volts) This can be accomplished with a pull up resistor to 5 volts and a diode to allow the Radio's TX line to pull it to ground. You only need to make a connection to ground, power and regulate it to 5 volts for the IC and the Radio's TX connection.
Then you need to detect the following command strings (This is all in Hex)
Tune Right
10 02 36 C0 00 00 10 03 E5 04
Tune Left
10 02 36 C1 00 00 10 03 E4 04
Tune Knob Left
10 02 36 C2 01 00 10 03 E6 04
Tune Knob Right
10 02 36 C3 01 00 10 03 E7 04
Track Right
10 02 36 C8 00 00 10 03 ED 04
Track Left
10 02 36 C9 00 00 10 03 EC 04
Remember, receive at 9600, 8, E, 1.
You will receive much more data than this, but the key is to basically ignore the rest of it, and capture these, and then you know what's going on....
Yoinks... didn't even think to try a different browser!
I'm using Mozilla Firefox... can't beat the pop-up blocker and it feels like pages load a little faster with this than with IE... I believe it is built off of Netscape
If you want to take a look at it... Click Here
Awesome walk-thru, Jaak! THANKS!! I'm going to be ordering my Pac this weekend, so I can hopefully get it installed next weekend!!
I'm using Mozilla Firefox... can't beat the pop-up blocker and it feels like pages load a little faster with this than with IE... I believe it is built off of Netscape
If you want to take a look at it... Click Here
Awesome walk-thru, Jaak! THANKS!! I'm going to be ordering my Pac this weekend, so I can hopefully get it installed next weekend!!
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