[2ndGenMaintainer]

Have you tried flushing your coolant system first. Also you may want to do a visual check on your trans cooler and external filter replacement. Just thinking of the most simplest things to start with, then observing any changes as I'm moving forward. Type of approach I would make. Good luck!

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Radiator hoses thermostat and coolant was changed 2 years ago no rust showing

Yeah I mean, you didn't mention if you have ever done a coolant flush on your car. So I see why Paulday mentioned the age and reluctance to do so at this point. I would ask if your heater core is still providing good hot air when you select heat from your AC? An engines coolant can be flushed in segments as well. I.E. you can flush just the radiator and isolate it from the rest of the system. Similarly you can flush just the engine, or just the heater core. Its a little bit more work this way, but it can be done in a way thats still safe even if its never been done and at that age.

 

[Mak]

Yeah I mean, you didn't mention if you have ever done a coolant flush on your car. So I see why Paulday mentioned the age and reluctance to do so at this point. I would ask if your heater core is still providing good hot air when you select heat from your AC? An engines coolant can be flushed in segments as well. I.E. you can flush just the radiator and isolate it from the rest of the system. Similarly you can flush just the engine, or just the heater core. Its a little bit more work this way, but it can be done in a way thats still safe even if its never been done and at that age.

Not since I had my radiator, hoses and thermostat replaced about a year and a half ago is it time to flush it. I probably put on maybe 6000 miles in that year and a half I switched jobs a month and a half ago and in that month and a half I put on 2500 miles. Then I replaced my bypass hoses 6 months ago.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Not since I had my radiator, hoses and thermostat replaced about a year and a half ago is it time to flush it. I probably put on maybe 6000 miles in that year and a half I switched jobs a month and a half ago and in that month and a half I put on 2500 miles. Then I replaced my bypass hoses 6 months ago.

Typically, no you shouldn't have to flush it all that often. I do mine maybe every 3-4years, but I definitely check its condition everytime I do an oil change/tire rotation. I flush my power steering fluid in the same time interval as the coolant. Like others have said here too though, thehirgher temperature could just be a symptom of a problem that has a different source within the transmission. There is a possibility of improper coolant too. Are you sure they flushed it, or could they have possibly topped it off. They could have even topped it off with incompatible fluid too. What does your fluid actually look like? In your opinion should you flush it?

 

[MKUltra]

As a ex-mechanic for a dealership for years, before getting burnt out, I'd say most, if not all are great points of advice, but I stand in the corner that, at that mileage, do not flush anything other than brake fluid. Flushing in general is overrated and sometimes can open a hell fire of issues, as some involve levels of pressurization that even at low levels can cause havoc. Drain and fills at this point as it gets close to the finish line.

My next few points are to check the radiator itself for damage, missing plastic panels that affect air flow, fan operations, obstructions in cooling fins etc. A potential head gasket weeping can cause a fluctuation in temperature [again another reason to reconsidering flushing] that may not even affect the coolant level significantly, and be missed completely as a causation of temperature changes. They make premixed extended life coolant as well, and I myself stand firmly with those to avoid guesswork with ratios. I also stand behind using coolant spill free/fill funnel kits that allow better bleedoff when refilling after drains and maintenence. They can help reveal issues at times.

Example: https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-g...d-garage-tools/funnel/p/oemtools-no-spill-coolant-filling-funnel-kit/802197_0_0

I bought one off a Cornwell tool truck years ago, and just get the updated adaptors as needed. It also can help reveal combustion chamber/head gasket issues also if there is prevalent air being reintroduced as the coolant is filling from funnel beyond the air that originally bleeds off. I've worked on a car that while disgnosing and refilling, was "burping" an excessive amount, and revealed a micro cracked head after compression test.

Tread lightly with high mileage engines with the onset of cooling issues. There is always the possibility of something less obvious lurking.

Good luck

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

As a ex-mechanic for a dealership for years, before getting burnt out, I'd say most, if not all are great points of advice, but I stand in the corner that, at that mileage, do not flush anything other than brake fluid. Flushing in general is overrated and sometimes can open a hell fire of issues, as some involve levels of pressurization that even at low levels can cause havoc. Drain and fills at this point as it gets close to the finish line.

My next few points are to check the radiator itself for damage, missing plastic panels that affect air flow, fan operations, obstructions in cooling fins etc. A potential head gasket weeping can cause a fluctuation in temperature [again another reason to reconsidering flushing] that may not even affect the coolant level significantly, and be missed completely as a causation of temperature changes. They make premixed extended life coolant as well, and I myself stand firmly with those to avoid guesswork with ratios. I also stand behind using coolant spill free/fill funnel kits that allow better bleedoff when refilling after drains and maintenence. They can help reveal issues at times.

Example: https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-g...d-garage-tools/funnel/p/oemtools-no-spill-coolant-filling-funnel-kit/802197_0_0

I bought one off a Cornwell tool truck years ago, and just get the updated adaptors as needed. It also can help reveal combustion chamber/head gasket issues also if there is prevalent air being reintroduced as the coolant is filling from funnel beyond the air that originally bleeds off. I've worked on a car that while disgnosing and refilling, was "burping" an excessive amount, and revealed a micro cracked head after compression test.

Tread lightly with high mileage engines with the onset of cooling issues. There is always the possibility of something less obvious lurking.

Good luck

Not sure what brand of car dealership you worked at, but you consider a 174000 mile car basically at its end of life?

 

[nitely]

Been maintaining and repairing my vehicles since the late 80s and I never ever done a radiator flush. Never have to do it. Never had any cooling issues except leaking radiators due to age. My regimen on all my vehicles over the years is drain and fill after the 4th year from new. And every 2 years thereafter no matter the mileage. I have been using prestone long life coolant and distilled water. No problems ever. Oem coolant or equivalent should work.

My issue with flushing the system is the amount of distilled water you need to flush out the system. ( Using a garden hose water is a no no due to the minerals coming from it.) Add the deliver tool to push those distilled water thru the system strong enough. And the guessing game of how much water is left inside. Trying to get that 50/50 ratio. People that need to flush their system are those who neglect them.

 

[MKUltra]

Not sure what brand of car dealership you worked at, but you consider a 174000 mile car basically at its end of life?

Very much so, yes. It's almost unsellable at that point, and customers have to be told that you may be putting more money in it than it's worth at that point. Sure, it may start and drive [not in the OP case], but wear and tear is well beyond reliable as transportation at 170k especially anything with a CVT. My last Nissan had 128k, self maintained, and it had very little trade in and ended up donating it.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

As a ex-mechanic for a dealership for years, before getting burnt out, I'd say most, if not all are great points of advice, but I stand in the corner that, at that mileage, do not flush anything other than brake fluid. Flushing in general is overrated and sometimes can open a hell fire of issues, as some involve levels of pressurization that even at low levels can cause havoc. Drain and fills at this point as it gets close to the finish line.

My next few points are to check the radiator itself for damage, missing plastic panels that affect air flow, fan operations, obstructions in cooling fins etc. A potential head gasket weeping can cause a fluctuation in temperature [again another reason to reconsidering flushing] that may not even affect the coolant level significantly, and be missed completely as a causation of temperature changes. They make premixed extended life coolant as well, and I myself stand firmly with those to avoid guesswork with ratios. I also stand behind using coolant spill free/fill funnel kits that allow better bleedoff when refilling after drains and maintenence. They can help reveal issues at times.

Example: https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-g...d-garage-tools/funnel/p/oemtools-no-spill-coolant-filling-funnel-kit/802197_0_0

I bought one off a Cornwell tool truck years ago, and just get the updated adaptors as needed. It also can help reveal combustion chamber/head gasket issues also if there is prevalent air being reintroduced as the coolant is filling from funnel beyond the air that originally bleeds off. I've worked on a car that while disgnosing and refilling, was "burping" an excessive amount, and revealed a micro cracked head after compression test.

Tread lightly with high mileage engines with the onset of cooling issues. There is always the possibility of something less obvious lurking.

Good luck

Been maintaining and repairing my vehicles since the late 80s and I never ever done a radiator flush. Never have to do it. Never had any cooling issues except leaking radiators due to age. My regimen on all my vehicles over the years is drain and fill after the 4th year from new. And every 2 years thereafter no matter the mileage. I have been using prestone long life coolant and distilled water. No problems ever. Oem coolant or equivalent should work.

My issue with flushing the system is the amount of distilled water you need to flush out the system. ( Using a garden hose water is a no no due to the minerals coming from it.) Add the deliver tool to push those distilled water thru the system strong enough. And the guessing game of how much water is left inside. Trying to get that 50/50 ratio. People that need to flush their system are those who neglect them.

I agree that neglect can lead to a need to flush a system. That simply draining and filling the radiator should be ok even if a lot of 2 year old coolant is still mixed in the rest of the system. Keeping in mind that old coolant can cause electrolysis which is a "no no". Maintaining a regimen of flushing coolant and most fluids in my vehicles has gotten me pretty far for years and years. Technically hose water is a "no no", I do mine this way no problem. The trick is driving it around a bit with fresh coolant, then draining and filling with fresh coolant a couple times till what you are draining looks good. Not trying to disagree and I know I will catch a lot of flack for saying it, but I've been maintaining and repairing my vehicles for years this way. Only issue I have ever had on my 2010 murano so far is a clutch coil replacement on the ac compressor and some bushings, struts. I've never had a meaningful overheating issue on any of my cars past replacing a radiator here or there either. So far I haven't had to do either of my cars radiators. My other is a 2010 accord with 150k miles and still feels brand new. This car has had a few repairs such as motor mounts replacement, both front bearings replacement with timken,tune up. fluids flush on the power steering,transmission,coolant, brakes. Front Struts. Installed an oil catch can and reversed an infamous K24 self diagnosed single cylinder oil control ring clog causing consumption of a quart every 4000 mile OTI. Did all the work myself except the alignment and transmission flush. The occasional battery replacement under warranty.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Very much so, yes. It's almost unsellable at that point, and customers have to be told that you may be putting more money in it than it's worth at that point. Sure, it may start and drive [not in the OP case], but wear and tear is well beyond reliable as transportation at 170k especially anything with a CVT. My last Nissan had 128k, self maintained, and it had very little trade in and ended up donating it.

I wouldnt personally buy a car with 174k on it ever for those reasons. But I am also the type of guy that buys them with extremely low miles on them, maintains them very well and junks them when im done. The thought never enters my mind on resale value or trade in value. I drive the thing into its grave. I also don't buy certain brands for that reason. Not all brands are the same. I'd love to buy American but honestly, if you can't beat em, join em. If I wanted a truck , I might consider a ford for sure as they are the leading manufacturer and have put most of their efforts in them. It matters what brand you buy and it affects the life you should expect to get from a car with proper maintenance imo.

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Tap water varies in its mineral content around the country/world. Some water is okay, in other areas it can be very bad...

Using distilled water in the cooling system is the best choice to avoid minerals...

 

[Mak]

I wouldnt personally buy a car with 174k on it ever for those reasons. But I am also the type of guy that buys them with extremely low miles on them, maintains them very well and junks them when im done. The thought never enters my mind on resale value or trade in value. I drive the thing into its grave. I also don't buy certain brands for that reason. Not all brands are the same. I'd love to buy American but honestly, if you can't beat em, join em. If I wanted a truck , I might consider a ford for sure as they are the leading manufacturer and have put most of their efforts in them. It matters what brand you buy and it affects the life you should expect to get from a car with proper maintenance imo.

Sorry for the late response I have not been getting emails about replying to the post, my story is when I get off work I take the freeway home i get off work and the temperature outside is 60 degrees and I have to climb hills with steep inclines so I'll be going 80 and the rpms shoot up as expected and there steep hills you have yo go up for a good amount of time and then I will see the temperature gauge go up enough no notice it's not in the middle and I used the cvtz50 app and it said my transmission temp was at 210 and my coolant was at 236 then after the hill climb was over the coolant went down to 219-226 and the transmission temperature stayed at 208 all the way until I got home and when I got home it dropped to 207. Does it normally take cvt transmissions a long time to cool down.when driving.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Thats good info to know for sure. What I'm gathering is not only the cvt but the engine temp goes up as well. Engine temp comes down but cvt doesn't. I wonder if the rise in temperature is normal for both, however the radiator may be in better condition than the trans cooler. At least the logic points me this way. By no means am I saying thats whats wrong though.i personally haven't been tracking my trans temp with the app, so I dont know what temp is normal. Im sure someone may chime in here and either know more than me or has experienced this before possibly. Either way, thats good info to share. Thanks!

 

[I need coffee]

...my transmission temp was at 210 and my coolant was at 236 then after the hill climb was over the coolant went down to 219-226 and the transmission temperature stayed at 208 all the way until I got home and when I got home it dropped to 207. Does it normally take cvt transmissions a long time to cool down.when driving.

Your CVT fluid temperatures are directly affected by the engine coolant temperatures since the transmission cooler is inside the radiator. You need to address whatever cooling system issues you're having as those coolant temperatures are way too high. When the car is moving at highway speeds there should be enough air moving through the radiator to keep coolant temperature within normal operating range, even while climbing a hill. You seem to have done a bunch of work on the cooling system so are you absolutely certain that you properly bled the system of air after doing that work?

 

[I need coffee]

If I wanted a truck , I might consider a ford for sure as they are the leading manufacturer and have put most of their efforts in them.

I wouldn't go near a Ford these days. In recent years, they've generally been on the lower rung of dependability ratings (JD Power) and if you watch some of the videos on the fordtechmakuloco YouTube channel you'll shudder at the stuff he finds on relatively newer Ford vehicles (...you'll hear him comment something like "this is another common problem"). As an auto manufacturer, I wonder if Ford is impressed or embarrassed that there is a special purpose tool kit made specifically for extracting broken spark plugs out of their Triton engines. 🤮

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

I wouldn't go near a Ford these days. In recent years, they've generally been on the lower rung of dependability ratings (JD Power) and if you watch some of the videos on the fordtechmakuloco YouTube channel you'll shudder at the stuff he finds on relatively newer Ford vehicles (...you'll hear him comment something like "this is another common problem"). As an auto manufacturer, I wonder if Ford is impressed or embarrassed that there is a special purpose tool kit made specifically for extracting broken spark plugs out of their Triton engines. 🤮

Word...
I had no idea honestly. To be perfectly honest I would consider a tundra first and foremost. Or even a Tacoma. I have checked out some of fordtechs stuff. Fordboss is also a great channel. Guy gives it to you like it is. And yes I have seen the horror of those engines with the frozen spark plugs. They still put fear in mechanics hearts lol. I watched the bs SMA went through on one and he was a seasoned vet at it. At the end of the day I think my heart is with the tundra, but thats several years down the road I hope!

 

[Mak]

Your CVT fluid temperatures are directly affected by the engine coolant temperatures since the transmission cooler is inside the radiator. You need to address whatever cooling system issues you're having as those coolant temperatures are way too high. When the car is moving at highway speeds there should be enough air moving through the radiator to keep coolant temperature within normal operating range, even while climbing a hill. You seem to have done a bunch of work on the cooling system so are you absolutely certain that you properly bled the system of air after doing that work?

I will get my spill proof funnel and put it on the radiator and see if there is any air bubbles still in the system

 

[Mak]

Your CVT fluid temperatures are directly affected by the engine coolant temperatures since the transmission cooler is inside the radiator. You need to address whatever cooling system issues you're having as those coolant temperatures are way too high. When the car is moving at highway speeds there should be enough air moving through the radiator to keep coolant temperature within normal operating range, even while climbing a hill. You seem to have done a bunch of work on the cooling system so are you absolutely certain that you properly bled the system of air after doing that work?

I will screen recorde the app right before I go on the hill tomorrow. This is one example I took

 

[I need coffee]

I will screen recorde the app right before I go on the hill tomorrow. This is one example I took

That CVTz50 snapshot was taken at a stop (0 mph). The cooling fans should be keeping temperatures from getting that high so make sure your cooling fans can be commanded on by running the IPDM Auto Active Test in the PDF attachment. Normally, the fans should turn on at 208F and turn off when the coolant temperature drops to 199F. Cooling fans running at low speed should be enough to lower coolant temperatures.

 

[Mak]

That CVTz50 snapshot was taken at a stop (0 mph). The cooling fans should be keeping temperatures from getting that high so make sure your cooling fans can be commanded on by running the IPDM Auto Active Test in the PDF attachment. Normally, the fans should turn on at 208F and turn off when the coolant temperature drops to 199F. Cooling fans running at low speed should be enough to lower coolant temperatures.

I've never heard my fan turn off and back on after it's warmed up it just goes into the lowest mode I can hear it still on that's been happening for some years now should I look into that