On my end I know not as much as you do. I purchased it used used Nov 2012. It had 87k on it at the time which told me a lot of highway miles. I'm currently at 109k. I did some digging around and found out some service that had been done to it at another dealer and it involved some transmission work to the tune of $1700 at around 70k miles. This told me that I would need to be looking to get the tranny flushed again at around 100k+. I'm not looking for a Consult analysis. As we know there is no fluid known to man that will never break down and deteriorate. Heat and friction causes any fluid to break down with time.

 

you answered my question. You know your car was either driven hard (or possibly abused) by a previous owner, and needed transmission work at only 70K. And since that same owner drove it for another 17K, it's quite likely the fluid indeed DOES need to be changed. Still, the deterioration date analysis would reveal the condition of the CVT fluid.

That said, preventive maintenance like early fluid changes are never a bad thing - other than to your wallet and providing the proper replacement fluids are used!

 

Hi guys.. new here..
I too have a 2006 Murano with 102K.. I have never done changed the tranny fluid. I am thinking of doing it myself as I don't really trust any mechanic shop or dealer with regards to this.

I know that the best thing to do is a complete flush which includes flushing the radiator side... but, can I get by only drain and fill?
Thanks.

 

102K miles sounds too early to me to do a CVT fluid change (unless you are tracking or autocrossing your MO, towing with it, or the dealers CVT fluid deterioration date number came out very high). I'm at 113K miles on my 04 SE, and not even thinking about a CVT fluid change.

 

oh wow really?
the manual says to change at 30K and so does the dealer... so if the manual is wrong, then how often am I supposed to change the CVT fluid?

 

How funny - I just saw Pilgrim's post after submitting my last one. Sure looks like we're on the same page!

 

If you have a Gen 1 Murano, those dealers are giving you bad info. Then again, it's only money (yours going unnecessarily to a dealer!). So if it makes you sleep better, knock yourself out. Personally, I'd trust the FSM over on-line advice.

 

The way I read that manual (the little, abbreviated one you posted - still not as comprehensive as the FSM), Pg. 10 STILL says to change the CVT fluid at 60K only if subjecting your car to severe conditions. Then again, it IS a little vague so you know some dealers (and obviously the two, unfortunately, you have checked with) are going to manipulate that info to get as much of your $$ as they can.

Not all dealers are like that. Hard as it may be to believe, some actually care about their customers.

 

Yup, to sort out the info in the manual linked, you have to review multiple pages and look up not only the mileage listing, but the explanations of Service 1 and Service 2, and then look up the explanation of scheduled maintenance for the CVT...what a pain. Here's the language from page 10:

Transmission Fluid/Oil, Differential Oil, Transfer Case Oil

Visually inspect for signs of leakage at specified intervals. If towing a trailer, using a camper or car–top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, replace the fluid/oil every 30,000 miles or 24 months (60,000 miles or 48 months for Murano CVT fluid).


The way I read it, this does recommend a fluid change at 60K/48 month intervals for a Murano towing a trailer or doing other acts which would tend to impose heavier load on the transmission. I think it might be helpful to see the wording in the Factory Service Manual.

I can also see how many dealerships would read the service intervals incorrectly. Nissan made it difficult and time-consuming to understand the actual recommendation.

 

I think it might be helpful to see the wording in the Factory Service Manual.

Here it is, from Pg. MA-8 in the maintenance section of Vol. 4 of my 2004 FSM:

If towing a trailer, using a camper or car top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, inspect CVT fluid deterioration with CONSULT-II every 60,000 miles (96,000 km), then change CVT fluid NS-2 if necessary. (refer to CVT-69, "Check CVT fluid deterioration date".) And if CONSULT-II is not available, change (not just inspect) CVT fluid NS-2 every 60,000 miles (96,000 km).

See, no mention of a 30K mile CVT fluid change, even for cars exposed to severe service. Any dealer suggesting that (or, worse yet, encouraging it) is scamming its customers.

 

That's great detail! Since dealers never seem to know about this instruction, it does seem like there may be a case for changing CVT fluid at 60K mile intervals as preventive maintenance.

 

Big thanks to Eric L. and Matt G.!! After 11 years and 110,500 miles, it was time. During the summers, I towed fairly often (3,000 lb bass boat package) and in the winter had a top box for skis that added to the drag. Given that I never changed the CVT fluid, figured it was overdue. I did notice that the CVT would lag at higher RPMs than previously. More anecdotal based on memory vs. objective data. Regardless, you all gave me the confidence to do it myself.

I used the Valvoline CVT fluid (specifically listed as NS2 compatible). Purchased 11 quarts and after draining and refilling the CVT pan, I used the start-stop-one-quart-at-a-time method that Matt recommended. My CVT drain plug (2004 Murano SE AWD) was the 10mm allen head socket. I used a 3/8" socket with adapter to 1/2" breaker bar. Took some penetrating lube and some pressure, but it cracked open with a loud CRACK noise! No copper crush washer underneath, but a rubber o-ring instead. After draining and refilling the pan per Eric's instructions, I went with Matt's on pumping out the transmission through the cooler line. Like Matt noted, it was about the third or fourth quart when I noticed clean fluid coming through. Took about 11 quarts total. Used fluid was very dark in the bottle, but fortunately, no metal particles or burned smell at all.

After changing out the fluid and flush, I took it for a test drive and it seemed more responsive. Again, seat of the pants feeling - not objective, but the transmission seemed happy enough. I did buy 12 quarts total, just in case. I ended up flushing a bit more just to clean it out more. There was also a Castrol version at the local auto parts store, but I got suspicious when the label said NS1, NS2 and NS3 compatible. I thought I had read that NS1 and NS2 were incompatible generally. The Valvoline, on the other hand, notes NS2 compatible only (along with several other manufacturers CVT fluid).

Some tips for others - Matt notes that the drain tube should be 1/4". Truth be told, that was a bit snug. 5/16" would have been better. Also, the hose clamp that was on the return line was pretty rusted. The tabs broke off and I ended up spending quite a bit of time prying off what was left to get the hose off. Swapped out for a screw based hose clamp (stainless).

Hoping I'm good for a while. Thanks again to the members here for all the tips and instructions!

 

What is the start-stop-one quart thing exactly?

You unscrew the drain plug, let the fluid drain, disconnect the cooler hose from the driver's side, let the fluid drain... but then what exactly are you doing?

Do you screw the drain plug back in, but keep the cooler hose disconnected so the fluid drains as you fill 1 quart at a time?

At what point do you start the vehicle and then stop it, and add more fluid?

 

Just did mine an 06. After humming and hawing I went for the simpler option and just drain and refill. Why, simply cause the flush could damage the tranny if it ran even for a bit dry since adding fluid is too slow compared to the draining and also, the cheaper of the two options.

1st. I don't get the obsession of letting it drip n drip ie 15mins or more. We're only draining 5+ litres of 11+ litres. A few drops is not going to do anything. Once it stops pouring out and just a trickle you are good.

2nd. Getting ns2 fluid at dealer is simple, no need to risk using non ns2 fluid from other sources. The saving like 50 dollars vs thousands for a new tranny is odd to me. Buy 7 and take 1 back if you don't spill any just make sure not to open the 7th bottle.

No need to lift the mo. Very very easy to reach it on your back. After engine nice and warm then drain.

3rd. 10mm Allen on a racket with a short extension and a pipe cracks it easy. Drain is just under 6 litres. I added some penetrating oil (pb blaster) 39mins before but longer would be better.

4th. The 10mm bolt has an oring that the dealers don't commonly stock so if you want to change it makes sure to pre order it. Mechanics at dealers never change it unless ripped.

5th. Snug bolt back on and top up with 5.5 litres using a narrow neck funnel.

6th. Start car and run the gear shift around gears a few times. While car running check level and add 200mls at a time till between lines.

7th. Look for a leak and if not. All good.

Recycle oil and check level a couple days later while engine running and warm.

I noticed a dramatic improvement in shifts, no longer a weird hesitation between what seems like 1st to 2nd gear just smoothness now.

Ill probably change it out again in 10months, another 50% change will yield 75% newish fluid for what is a long life oil so very confident in it and not needing to do the full flush.

That said, I was missing some clips on the front bumper so when I started to add them after my fluid drop I noticed at the rad a "green leak" on the bottom of the rad on the driver side with green fluid at a hose! At 1st thought it was coolant but in looking at the diagram it may be cvt fluid from line going to the rad! Bugger.

Thanks for everyone who posts here, gave me the confidence to do it and learn along the way.

 

I saw this on youtube, posted dec 18 2015. Looks like a even simpler DIY method to do a complete flush of the old CVT fluid. It looks like he was able to do a complete change of ~11 quarts.

The video showed him pumping in new genuine NS2 fluid from the CVT fluid cooler hose (inlet side) using a relatively cheap oil pump. The old fluid coming out from the radiator but he had a hose connecting down to 5 gallon container. He ran through 10 quarts and after measuring the level after a test drive, put in another 1 quarts through the charging pipe.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIuraMjpt0k

When it gets warmer here in the midwest, will give it a try.

 

filter

the cvt trans does not have a filter, but you can take off the pan. want do any good just waste of time. a friend of mine at the dealership said he doesn't know of any way to completely flush trans, most dealerships in my area say the best way to do it is to , drain the pan, fill it up, drive for 20 minutes and do it all over.

 

Starting to give the CVT some attention - 63K miles - no tow, 5 min wife commuter, no leaks or issues. First have to figure out the trick to get the lock off the dip stick. Perfectly designed to snap plastic it seems.
Called the dealer to investigate the fluids etc. They wouldn't be concerned until 100K+. Their routine is no flush, just drain and replace with same temp fluid to avoid displacement variable.
They want some of the old fluid to remain. $25 per quart/litre here for Nissan brand. I expect it will be $400 bill for dealer service.

 

Dealer should do a CVT Deterioration Date analysis prior to doing any work on the CVT fluid. That analysis will tell you the condition of the fluid. At only 63K miles, it should be fine - especially if you aren't subjecting your car to any severe driving conditions.

 

Oh yeah, going back through this thread, I realized that the dealer Consult analysis is indeed a CVT FLUID deterioration date analysis. It has been discussed here many times in recent years.

 

Changed the CVT fluid on my 2011 Murano SV with 51k miles over the weekend. Had the car since new and feels that it has lost some of its smooth and responsiveness after a few years. Wanted to see if replacing the CVT fluid would restore some of that new car feel! :laugh:

Had some trouble removing the locking CVT dipstick, but after re-examining photos posted, realized I was pressing on the wrong tab! Once it was removed, I checked the CVT fluid and it was quite low. After 10 minutes of driving and shift into all gears, the fluid was still a tad below the MIN mark! Damn, should’ve checked this sooner. The service manual said to only use lint-free paper to wipe the dipstick, so I did. On the paper it looks quite clear, with a hint of darkness around the edge of the mark.

Jacked up the car, took out my newly purchased 10mm HEX bit socket (always looking for excuse to buy new tools >), and carefully opened the drain bolt. The bolt was much larger in diameter than the oil pan bolt, and lots of dark fluid came gushing out. Although the fluid looked clear on paper, what came out looked pretty dark to me. About 4.3qt of fluid came out.

I filled with 4.5qt of Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid (clear water-like green color), the level is right around the low mark. With 5qt, it’s a tad below the hot mark after 10 minutes of driving, and I left it there.

Now we came to the most important part of the post. Did I notice a difference? Yes, ABSOLUTELY! The car feels quieter, lighter, and more responsive. On local stop/go traffic, the difference is not as obvious, but as soon as I started accelerating, the difference becomes quite clear. The car responds a lot faster, and accelerates a lot more effortlessly. Wow! While I can’t say it’s good as new, I feel I’ve definitely gotten back some of that new car feel!

So, is $110 (5 qt of CVT fluid) worth it? For me, that’s a definite yes. After all, I do these things not because I want to save money, but because I want the car to perform well. So if you are contemplating whether to replace your CVT fluid or not, and you can afford the cost, I’d say why not? You’ll prolong the life of the CVT, and likely gain some noticeable improvement in performance. Where else can you find such performance gain for $100 and simple work?

Anyway, here are some pictures:

CVT dipstick inserted 180 degree no locking:

10mm CVT drain bolt:

Almost done draining:

CVT drain plug (M??)

and oil pan drain plug (M12-1.25)

​

CVT rubber gasket, oil pan crush gasket:

Now, the real question is, should I do this again? After all, only 50% of the fluid is new. But at $100 a pop, I think I'll let the frugal side of me take over and ponder about this for a year or two.​

 

Changed the CVT fluid on my 2011 Murano SV with 51k miles over the weekend. Had the car since new and feels that it has lost some of its smooth and responsiveness after a few years. Wanted to see if replacing the CVT fluid would restore some of that new car feel! :laugh:

Had some trouble removing the locking CVT dipstick, but after re-examining photos posted, realized I was pressing on the wrong tab! Once it was removed, I checked the CVT fluid and it was quite low. After 10 minutes of driving and shift into all gears, the fluid was still a tad below the MIN mark! Damn, should’ve checked this sooner. The service manual said to only use lint-free paper to wipe the dipstick, so I did. On the paper it looks quite clear, with a hint of darkness around the edge of the mark.

Jacked up the car, took out my newly purchased 10mm HEX bit socket (always looking for excuse to buy new tools >), and carefully opened the drain bolt. The bolt was much larger in diameter than the oil pan bolt, and lots of dark fluid came gushing out. Although the fluid looked clear on paper, what came out looked pretty dark to me. About 4.3qt of fluid came out.

I filled with 4.5qt of Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid (clear water-like green color), the level is right around the low mark. With 5qt, it’s a tad below the hot mark after 10 minutes of driving, and I left it there.

Now we came to the most important part of the post. Did I notice a difference? Yes, ABSOLUTELY! The car feels quieter, lighter, and more responsive. On local stop/go traffic, the difference is not as obvious, but as soon as I started accelerating, the difference becomes quite clear. The car responds a lot faster, and accelerates a lot more effortlessly. Wow! While I can’t say it’s good as new, I feel I’ve definitely gotten back some of that new car feel!

So, is $110 (5 qt of CVT fluid) worth it? For me, that’s a definite yes. After all, I do these things not because I want to save money, but because I want the car to perform well. So if you are contemplating whether to replace your CVT fluid or not, and you can afford the cost, I’d say why not? You’ll prolong the life of the CVT, and likely gain some noticeable improvement in performance. Where else can you find such performance gain for $100 and simple work?

Anyway, here are some pictures:

CVT dipstick inserted 180 degree no locking:

10mm CVT drain bolt:

Almost done draining:

CVT drain plug (M??)
and oil pan drain plug (M12-1.25)

​

CVT rubber gasket, oil pan crush gasket:

Now, the real question is, should I do this again? After all, only 50% of the fluid is new. But at $100 a pop, I think I'll let the frugal side of me take over and ponder about this for a year or two.​

Did you replace the rubber o-ring on the plug? If so, do you recall the size of the o-ring? Thanks.

 

I have a 2009 Murano

There are 12 quarts of fluid in the CVT. A drain and fill is only 1/3 of that so I decided to do two about a week apart. That's about 50% new fluid. The old fluid was reddish brown.

After another year I did another drain and fill and replaced the external filter which is behind the drivers side fender liner.

I have now passed the 120,000 warranty period and have been advised by a Nissan tech, not dealership, to keep after the fluid changes. He also said the deterioration date analysis was not accurate.

Cheers, Kurt

 

So has anyone done this service on the third gen Murano using NS3 fluid? My car has 75k on it and I think a drain and fill would be good preventative maintenance

 

just did this today as per the pictures and instructions here.

bought 5qt (in Canada they sell them as Quarts too) from the dealer of Ns2 after debating about getting the Amsoil CVT. I only really had time. today and the dealer I went to yesterday gave me the bottles for $20/each.

got a new drain plug seal too.

So I warmed it up, leveled it out by jacking up the front slightly. bought a 10mm hex set (was on sale with like 20 pieces and sizes).

had to use a breaker bar to break the nut loose but once loose I could hand spin it off.

now here's the funny part, obviously there was some splash and spill while trying to catch it all but after draining pan into bottle and letting it drop until very slow drip (20min?) I reinstalled plug and washer.

it came out as exactly 5qt so I emptied every drop of the 5qts I bought in there.

fluid drained out red but when in back green. after finishing, lowered car, and started up. shifted gears up and down a few times then took it for a light then medium drive.

felt good, smoother. may look to do it again using the Amsoil later this summer and order the filter ahead of time as well.

I may have to top up a few drops but I'll ask dealer if they can give me an open bottle to top up with. otherwise letting it cool it measures weird. it's on the dots/etch lines but the word "hot" is way up the stick after the bends in the dip stick.

I assume it's good. I'll check it later tonight to see if it's too little and needs a top up.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

Let me get you to speculate here.

1- Do you think, like most "auto" transmissions, there is a filter located in the pan area?
2- Do you think it is even possible to
a- remove the pan with the transmission in the car?
b- buy a new pan gasket?
3- Do you think the dealer, or some other shop, has the necessary equipment to totally flush the CVT?

What do you think?

Good job on the DIY instructions.

 

Search results for query: "cvt filter"

www.nissanmurano.org

 

New to the group & looking forward to learning some. I bought an '07 AWD SE this summer & I'm not sure of the maintenance history. It seems to be a Canadian version? All of the info is French & English with metric only info in the driver's manual. It has 139k miles now & I think I'm going to tackle the CVT fluid drain & fill just to be on the safe side. It looks like many of you are saying it is quick & convenient to just go to Nissan to get the CVT fluid, right?

 

I bought it from Amazon and did not have any issues with it.

 

Make sure it's the correct fluid before purchasing. Your 1st gen Murano specifies NS2 (3rd gen uses NS3.)

Also, just to be extra safe, stick with Nissan NS2 CVT fluid, not one of the other brands that are somewhat less expensive.

There are also CVT internal filters that should probably be replaced considering how many miles your Murano has. It would involve dropping the pan to replace them, which may be a good idea anyway to see what things look like and to clean any gunk that has accumulated over the many years of operation...

 

Make sure it's the correct fluid before purchasing. Your 1st gen Murano specifies NS2 (3rd gen uses NS3.)

Also, just to be extra safe, stick with Nissan NS2 CVT fluid, not one of the other brands that are somewhat less expensive.

There are also CVT internal filters that should probably be replaced considering how many miles your Murano has. It would involve dropping the pan to replace them, which may be a good idea anyway to see what things look like and to clean any gunk that has accumulated over the many years of operation...

Some of the previous posts said the CVT has no filter inside of it. But then I look on the Nissan parts site & it shows an auto transmission filter for over $180.

 

It does