Now stand way back and show us where it is on the car?
Some of these type of pictures are like putting a flea on a big dog and asking it what kind of animal are you on. All the flea sees is hair and skin it see's no dog.

 

Sorry i thought the seconf pic was uploaded...
Its attached to left side of manifold ( passenger side ) theres an arm which goes back and forward. this arm goes into a piece of metal hole to move it like an inch. in the pic i uploaded the arm is pulled in. ( i can pull the arm out )

PICs

 

Hi. due to my research it will allow more air into manifold. but i am not sure if its still functioning or not. someone told me it will be opened on high speed for more air. id be interested to find more info about it.
i also want to know which way is open. is it open in the pic or closed?
Thx
Here is teh pic... View attachment 55790
View attachment 55790
here is the secong pic with longer shot...

photo-2022-10-04-22-28-33 hosted at ImgBB

Image photo-2022-10-04-22-28-33 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Another request for more context: are you experiencing an issue that leads you to suspect this may be the cause? If so, what is the issue you are trying to correct?

 

Hi Muransl2003. Thanks again for replying. You've been always helpful
well when i got the car it didnt have that piece of plastic which connects the arm to the metal which closes or opens.. but my mechanic added one. after which i felt like engine makes sounds but it has no air or power like before.. but i released the arm the other day and put the metal plate ( sorry i dont know its name ) in other way ( as in arm is fully pulled out ) and i see much stronger torque and power from the car. so my suspect is the arm doesnt move at all. so its always closed.
So my suspect is the Valve power or vacuum tank was broken. and this is why they released it from the manifold.
so my question is if i hold the metal piece open ( where when connected to arm the arm is fully out ) would that be a problem?
i add a pic of the position where i feel more torque and power after i released it again.

so 2 questions if i want to summarize :
1: i studied Engine system control manual from HERE it explains what does teh power valve do, but doesnt say which way is open or closed. so id want to know which way allows more air int manifold. ( arm fully out or arm fully in )
2: lets say my power valve is broken and the arm doesnt move atall. is it ok and safe for me to tie that metal part with a short metal wire so its always in that position ( position in the picture) ? I say tie it because its not really tight without being connected to the arm. it moves during driving.
Thanks alot

 

It's the power valve actuator. I'm really not sure what position the butterfly is in when at rest (or when the arm is all the way forward or back). I would assume it's closed until demand for power increases to the point that stronger vacuum via the hose draws the piston arm to move which opens the butterfly. That's just a guess. Except for a broken retainer or a cracked hose, I've never had to troubleshoot one as the cause of a problem.

Max forum....

Power valve actuator - Maxima Forums

3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) - Power valve actuator - 1990 Max My power valve actuator is leaking. Dealer no longer has it. Anyone modify something else to work?????

maxima.org

Part...

OEM NEW Nissan Intake Manifold Power Valve 03-07 Murano Maxima Quest 14510-8J11A • $247.29

OEM NEW NISSAN Intake Manifold Power Valve 03-07 Murano Maxima Quest 14510-8J11A - $247.29. FOR SALE! 2007 Murano. 2004-2005 Maxima. 2004-2005 Quest. BRAND NEW OEM AND NISSAN GENUINE Power Valve Is A Direct Fit For The Following: 2003-2004 Nissan Altima 3.5 2004-2005 Maxima 2007 Murano 2004-2005...

picclick.com

Noisy/sluggish/pinging and tailpipe smoke on...

Over the past five days, something happened where I had poor acceleration and unusal smoke from the tailpipes. I had again thrown P0011 for bank 1, and had ordered new a VVT replacement kit (with gaskets) via Partsgeek for $87. Nissan wanted $10 per gasket (and I didn't even bother asking...

www.nissanmurano.org

 

thank everyone for the answers and added links. i read them all
But i still cant figure out when the power valve is open and when is it closed. would be interesting to find out... In case someone else searched power valve in here they get the answer all in one place... As it's the first and only power valve only discussion in this forum and all over the world

 

It's a butterfly valve. When it's horizontal to the air flow it's open, and when it's perpendicular to the airflow it's closed.

 

I think he's trying to determine what position the butterfly is at in his photo. I assumed the butterfly was always closed until a vacuum or pressure was created to puill/push the arm to make the butterfly open as the engine produced more horsepower upon demand. But I've never really looked into it.

Have you looked at this video? It might be able to help you determine what's going on. I think if you move the arm back and forth and listen carefully, you should be able to tell when the butterfly is slapping closed. From that video, it seems that the butterfly is opened by default and then closes.

 

Great vid!!!!
Thank you so much. So yeah my power valve acuator was closed. ( rod pulled it )
no wonder i felt like engine doesnt take enough air when over 3600 rpm. because my acuator is broken and doesnt close or open the butterfly valve.
i tied the butterfly valve with a piece of wire so it stays open always. now i can really feel the power and engine can really breath .
Thanks again for this best answer

 

 

Thank you for taking time and finding this, But iv read this already before @Cryogenix1 posts the video. Problem with this manual is its not saying on/off signal closes or opens the airflow. so i wanted to make sure. therefor now we can say when ECM sends ON signal, power valve will close the butter fly, so no more air. im not sure which one is the default. but my guess is default should be on signal ( airflow closed) . because when you start the car or go slow RPM is not above 3600.

 

I recorded a Video where i released the rod from the butterfly valve and put it in open position manually ( airflow open ) and as suggested in service manual to inspect if the power valve works....
I started recording then went sat in car and pushed the gas pedal to get the RPM quickly above 3600...
According to manual when RPM goes above 3600 the rod must move. ( mine doesnt )
But it shows the butterfly valve is kinda loose. so if u leave it on open it can close by itself because of the air... You can see in video...

video

 

I recorded a Video where i released the rod from the butterfly valve and put it in open position manually ( airflow open ) and as suggested in service manual to inspect if the power valve works....
I started recording then went sat in car and pushed the gas pedal to get the RPM quickly above 3600...
According to manual when RPM goes above 3600 the rod must move. ( mine doesnt )
But it shows the butterfly valve is kinda loose. so if u leave it on open it can close by itself because of the air... You can see in video...

video

My interpretation is the valve is open from 1800-3600 RPMs. It's closed below 1800 and above 3600. You should see the rod move to the open position at speeds above 1800 and up 3600 if I am correct... You need to be sure the car is warmed up before testing.

 

I could be wrong, but from your video is seems the plunger arm is not in the correct hole on that retaining plate, so the power valve's butterfly isn't really moving. That arm should be inserted offset to the center pivoting hole. I took a look at the photo at the power valve in my old thread, and attached the photo here. In your case, the plunger arm should be in the other hole. I think your mechanic may have accidentally thought the arm was supposed to go into the center hole, when it's actually supposed to go in the other one. The center hole is where the butterfly shaft rotates on its shaft. The outer hole on the plate is where the plunger arm should go in order to manipulate that shaft. Having the arm in the center hole will do nothing to control the butterfly.

Look at the previously posted video around time 2.37. The arm isn't inserted into the center hole. I've attached a pic of that video... You need to change the positon of the plunger arm on your engine. I've attached a photo of your arm for comparison. It doesn't appear to be correct.

 

yep i know what you're saying. The rod ( arm ) should go into center hole. but if youve read my previous posts... It was in the hole first. But problem is the rod doesnt move at all. so it keeps the butterfly valve in closed position ( rod pulled in so no air flow )
What i did was i pulled out the rod from the butterfly valve hole. since its doesnt function. in the vid the rod is released. my point was just to show the rod doesnt move at all. and 2: if you want to manually put butterfly valve in open position for more air, u need to tie it somewhere. becaase as u can see in the video.air flows can move the butterfly and close it.
so if i want so summarize...
1: My power valve actuator and its vacuum is broke, or clogged up or some has issue. which forced it in closed position. therefor when i need extra torque or speed and power. if the rod is connected to the butterfly valve. it wont open it and engine doesnt have enough air to breath.
2: what i did was to release the rod from butterfly valve hole so the tied to to a souranding wire so it keeps open always.
I'd suggest everyone who has a Mo first geenration please check if your power valve works. If not its better to release it from butterfly. Because the performance is really noticeable .
I will add more pics in next post to show what i did

 

I'm not sure how delicate that power valve's internal parts are but I wouldn't run the engine with the arm essentially frozen where it is since it could damage something such as a membrane.

it's also possible that retaining plate is pressed onto the butterfly shaft and has let go where the plate will just rattle around without actually being able to spin the shaft to move the butterfly. I'd disconnect the arm and try to move that plate by hand to feel and hear if the butterfly is actually moving. if it's not, you'll need to fix it.

With the arm disconnected start the engine and watch if the power valve moves the arm just to make sure that aspect works. You may have to have someone work the gas pedal to get the RPMs to the desired range as you watch it. Or just have something recording the valve as youre working the pedal then play it back.

 

I'm not sure how delicate that power valve's internal parts are but I wouldn't run the engine with the arm essentially frozen where it is since it could damage something such as a membrane.

it's also possible that retaining plate is pressed onto the butterfly shaft and has let go where the plate will just rattle around without actually being able to spin the shaft to move the butterfly. I'd disconnect the arm and try to move that plate by hand to feel and hear if the butterfly is actually moving. if it's not, you'll need to fix it.

With the arm disconnected start the engine and watch if the power valve moves the arm just to make sure that aspect works. You may have to have someone work the gas pedal to get the RPMs to the desired range as you watch it. Or just have something recording the valve as youre working the pedal then play it back.

Hi.
Yes ive done this test before. But since i was alone i did put my phone there to record what happens when i go high rpm.. shown in Video...
The power valve doesnt move at all and its stuck in closed position ( arm pulled in ) so i released it totally from the btterfly. and yes butterfly valve works, because when i open or close it with hand i can hear engine sounds change... More obviouslly when i drive with butterfly open, the performance is really noticiable, i can hear the engine roars and pushes out all that power and i can feel it in accelration... so i manually opened the butterfly and tied it like this... so it wont get closed again.

This position also matches with the video you sent and also matches with what i feel.
Moral of story is ive been driving for a year with butterfly valve closed all the time. no wonder i felt like the vehicle had no power.
these small things which dont even pull out an error code can make big differences in car performance
i encourage everyone with a Mo check this thing out. because if its broken it wont throw an error code.
its really worth the effort.

 

To diagnose if it's working properly, remove the rubber hose and place your finger over the end of the hose while having someone stepping on the gas, you should feel the vacuum suction changing.

If you feel the vacuum changing, then the valve needs to be replaced. If there's no change in vacuum, then you'll need to be looking at the part that controls the vacuum to the valve.

When replaced, there should be instructions on the proper placement of the rod.

Not for nothing, but to me, from the last photo it seems like the far hole looks to be clean, like that's where the rod originally was. Also, your very first picture shows the rod in the far hole. Your posts are a little confusing about how the rod was fitted, or even replaced in the beginning?

Anyway, a simple test for vacuum will tell you if you need to replace that unit, or if the problem is further up the line.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

Thanks for the reply...
Just to add.. Theres only one hole in butterfly valve and its in its center. the other 2 are more like hooks. so theres only one hole for the rod to go in and when rod move forward the butterfly opens and when it goes inside buttefly closed.
In my first pics the rod was in its hole. but since the vaccum is not functioning it was always closed.
what i did was released the rod from it's home and let the butterfly free.
I need to say this again. Theres only one hole for the rod to go in... The 2 other are hooks that determines the level of closed/open state. there's no way to connect the rod to anything else except the center hole.
so i will put a before and after pic

Before.

and here is after ( rod with yellow plastic is free. its not connected to anything. its just touchign the surface of butterfly)

 

sistermoon2500 in your last post the picture looks different from other pics. I'm currently viewing using my phone so I can't clearly tell but it seems that the forward hole may be clogged with the remnants of the broken clip and tip of the arm. or maybe your mechanic modified that plate or flange in order to try to get things working correctly.

I guess the bottom line is if you're happy with what you have then leave it alone. it's possible one of the support components isn't working correctly such as the vacuum tank or the vias solenoid. I think the only issue youll encounter is slightly worse gas mileage.

 

thank you again for taking time to check all the pics..
Let me make it simple.
The rod has been released a year ago and had no plastic attached to it. The rod alone is metal which the hole in the butterfly is to loose for it. so it needs a plastic part which attaches to the rod and makes teh rod thicker so it will get in the butterfly hole, therefor it sticks to it and wont come out by itself.
my mechanic saw it doesnt have that plastic part so he thought its missing by accident. so he added one himself. and stuck the rod in butterfly hole. Turns out the previous owner knew the power valve doesnt work so they released it from the butter fly.
what i did wasi just released it again. the rod is not attached to anywhere. i just didnt want to break the plasctic or i could have pulled it out too.
all i wanted to know was which way the butterfly valves allows more air. which your video shown it perfectly.
But again @I need coffee coffee uploaded another video which confused me...
his video says when butterfly is closed, since theres less air resistant the engine output increases...
But it doesnt make sense with what manual says and what i experienced. usually when you want to pass or go uphills Engine RPm goes up right? So the passage A and B should be open for more air. ( butterfly open)
Also manual has some paradox too.
Im all confused... lol
You're right i gotta stick to what works for me...
But its still very intersting to learn

 

This is what's confusing me. The "before" picture shows that plate without a hole, but the next pic with the ziptie shows a hole. Did you somehow remove that plate and spin it around so that hole is now on the lower-right and hidden by the yellow clip?

Yes, that retaining clip is absolutely essential in order for that arm to work correctly. The plunger arm doesn't actually seat inside of that center-shaft portion, it sits in that forward plate hole and snaps into the plastic clip.

EDIT: Actually, in looking more closely at things, it seems that either you're using pics from two different vehicles, or that the end plate housing was changed (the big round piece that mates to the intake). I say this because a recessed circle appears to be missing on the ziptied pic. Just down and to the left of where the two screws fasten the power valve to that big round plate, I see a small circle on the before pic that's missing in the later pic (perhaps just a lighting issue). And unless it's simply another lighting anamoly, the petina of those plates looks a bit different. Plus, there's a small, rectangular stampe just left of the butterfly shaft area (firewall side) that looks different in both pics. But maybe you cleaned everything up which merely exposed it more. However, even that stamped circle at the 11 O'Clock position (to the left of the butterfly shaft area) seems different.

 

This is what's confusing me. The "before" picture shows that plate without a hole, but the next pic with the ziptie shows a hole. Did you somehow remove that plate and spin it around so that hole is now on the lower-right and hidden by the yellow clip?

Yes, that retaining clip is absolutely essential in order for that arm to work correctly. The plunger arm doesn't actually seat inside of that center-shaft portion, it sits in that forward plate hole and snaps into the plastic clip.

EDIT: Actually, in looking more closely at things, it seems that either you're using pics from two different vehicles, or that the end plate housing was changed (the big round piece that mates to the intake). I say this because a recessed circle appears to be missing on the ziptied pic. Just down and to the left of where the two screws fasten the power valve to that big round plate, I see a small circle on the before pic that's missing in the later pic (perhaps just a lighting issue). And unless it's simply another lighting anamoly, the petina of those plates looks a bit different. Plus, there's a small, rectangular stampe just left of the butterfly shaft area (firewall side) that looks different in both pics. But maybe you cleaned everything up which merely exposed it more. However, even that stamped circle at the 11 O'Clock position (to the left of the butterfly shaft area) seems different.

View attachment 55806
View attachment 55805

In the first picture, the notch (where the zip tie is holding the plate in the second picture) is down over a pin sticking out of the bottom. I presume this is the closed position. The pin/notch is to keep the valve from rotating the other direction and stopping closed. First picture, valve is closed. Second, it's held open by the zip tie. Also, in the first picture, it looks like the rod is in the correct hole (which is on top, while the valve is closed). When the solenoid actuates, it pushes the rod out (back) which turns the valve to the open position.

EDIT: Nevermind, I'm blind. We can't really see how many notches there are. It would make sense if there were two notches facing inwards on opposing corners of a triangle, with the pin in the middle. Preventing the valve from swinging too far either way past 90 deg or whatever angle they're using for the valve open position.

Also, looks like there is no center "hole". It looks like the flattened end of the valve's center rod or a pin to hold the plate.

 

Sorry everyone for confusion...
I could have guessed the first pic is not showing the edges very clear. I highlighted the butterfly shape in these 2 pics.
the first one is before i release the rod from it which is in closed position...
Second pic is after i released the rod and put the butterfly in open position.. ANd i used a ziptie so it doesnt move.

And second pic after i pulled out the rod out of the butterfly hole. ( butterfly has only one hole for the rod )

 

This system is designed to give you the most power when the car needs it at all ranges of RPMs.
When you tie this valve in a fixed position you’re sacrificing power elsewhere. Usually wit this type of system you’re either sacrificing low speed power or top end power.
I recommend you repair the system correctly so it operates as designed.

 

This system is designed to give you the most power when the car needs it at all ranges of RPMs.
When you tie this valve in a fixed position you’re sacrificing power elsewhere. Usually wit this type of system you’re either sacrificing low speed power or top end power.
I recommend you repair the system correctly so it operates as designed.

Thank you for the info. A mechanic in this forum told me "this increases fuel economy, if you like u can tie it so it will be always open and powerful" guess he was wrong?
My experience sofar Fuel economy got much better after i tied it open.
2: speed below 100kmph is great but i have a feeling at higher speed its not effective anymore. so what you're saying makes sense.
Could you please dig more into how does this valve work in different speed/rpms so we get a better and clearer picture of whats going on ?
Thank you

 

^^^^ Absolutely agree.

That cable tie should be used only long enough to get the correct part and install it so the system works as designed.

 

I'm the orignal owner and the mileage is correct. But if you read some of my older posts, you'll see that I burned through seven CVTs...

 

I think maybe they’re asking if their odometer was rolled back. Not yours.

 

Have you checked the small hoses in case some were accidentally switched around? Perhaps that could explain the reversed (or one-way) behavior.

 

Have you tried reversing the two small hoses in case they were accidentally reversed? Perhaps that could explain the reversed behavior of the power valve. I seem to recall one hose being longer than the other, but perhaps it they were replaced at some point both are now long enough to be switched around.

i think only way that vacuum exists in hose going to power valve is the only set up possible. swapping hoses will stop the vacuum existence in the hose going to power valve...
According to MANUAL ( page 658 ) it says if vacuum exists in the hose when theres voltage ( i use cvtz50 app VIAS active test instead of consult 2) change or replace power valve actuator. in mine vacuum exists when i turn VIAS active teston. and when i turn it off vacuume stops. but when it stops the vacuum the power valve wont go back to its place. or maybe we dont know whats is teh delay for the actuator to close/open again when theres no more vacuum existence! ?
COuld u please read a few pages in the manual i linked to see maybe you understand better?
Id appreciate this. thx

i will try to record a video of it. to give a better picture of my issue

 

By definition, a vacuum tank holds vacuum so that vacuum can be used to carry out certain operations. Usually it's used to run HVAC doors for heating and cooling.

The tank is connected to a source of vacuum, and there's a one-way valve in the line to prevent the tank losing its reservoir of vacuum.

 

So when theres no vacuume existence in the hose the powervalve actuator must go forward... right? mine pulls it backward when theres vacuume but when vacuum stops, it wont let the power valve go forward

 

If the picture in your above post is of your engine, your hoses are wrong. Watch the end of my video to see how they connect. The power valve hose should go to the center connection on the vacuum tank. Yours is going to the outer connection on that tank. The inside solenoid connection hose should go to the outside connection of the vacuum tank, etc. Check your configuration against mine...

 

I just noticed it... but i also saw another variation in this video u posted before too!

in that vid the hose from manifold goes directly to the vacuum tank
Imma go test both
Thanks again wil come back with updates

 

But I think in that video the guy was trroubleshooting and showing how things work and don't work. I think he may have achieved that by moving around hoses. Either that, or my 2003 config has been wrong all these years. Or, maybe models after mine had a vacuum tank or solenoid that worked differently. Strange. I don't see anywhere in this video where he changes anything around to match my configuration. Interesting...

EDIT: Very strange. In Googling pics of other NIssan VIAS systems, I don't see any with my hose configuration, but most engine views don't show all the connections clearly or at all. I know I've never switched the hoses, and always marked them before taking them off. And my car always had great power and nice idling and great gas mileage. I'm at a loss...

EDIT #2: It looks like mine is wrong. Perhaps my configuration has been "static" all these years. The engine was last taken out (partially disassembled) in 2010 after a major accident to replace the CVT and other parts . The car ran awesomely afterwards and ever since. Perhaps the config got hooked up wrong in a way that neither helped nor hurt the way the engine performed. Crazy... That is, unless the mechanic who last worked on my car in 2020 to replace the fuel pump fooled around with those hoses and changed things...and broke that retaining clip at the same time. I did start to have more issues after that fuel pumped was replaced, but the car still seemed to run very well overall.

 

But I think in that video the guy was trroubleshooting and showing how things work and don't work. I think he may have achieved that by moving around hoses. Either that, or my 2003 config has been wrong all these years. Or, maybe models after mine had a vacuum tank or solenoid that worked differently. Strange. I don't see anywhere in this video where he changes anything around to match my configuration. Interesting...

EDIT: Very strange. In Googling pics of other NIssan VIAS systems, I don't see any with my hose configuration, but most engine views don't show all the connections clearly or at all. I know I've never switched the hoses, and always marked them before taking them off. And my car always had great power and nice idling and great gas mileage. I'm at a loss...

EDIT #2: It looks like mine is wrong. Perhaps my configuration has been "static" all these years. The engine was last taken out (disassembled after a major accident to replace the CVT and other parts) in 2010. The car ran awesomely afterwards and ever since. Perhaps the config got hooked up wrong in a way that neither helped nor hurt the way the engine performed. Crazy... Unless the mechanic who last worked on my car in 2020 to replace the fuel pump fooled around with those hoses and changed things. I did start to have more issues after that happened, but the car still seemed to run very well overall.

I guess stay with your configuration.

Fixed!!!
And yes yours was wrong too
For this guy's video was the correct way.
This should be the way...
From manifold ---> vacuum tank in----> vacuum tank out ----> Solonoid VIAS B ----> Solonoind VIAS A------> Power valve actuator
So one little mistake makes all these hassles. I replaced Power valve for nothing. but it was worth the experience and learning!
Thanks everyone for inputs

 

Butterfly valves are typically held in a resting position by a spring and then some force (vacuum, electric motor, etc) overcomes the spring tension to position the valve plate in the desired position and then when the force is removed the spring should return it back to the resting position. If the valve does actuate, but gets stuck in the retracted position does it return to the normal position if the vacuum line to the valve is disconnected?

BTW, here's an exploded diagram of the intake plenum from an OEM supplier.

EDIT: Posted the same time as when you reported the fix. Sounds like the lines being connected wrong didn't allow for vacuum to be released when the solenoid was turned off. Good job with figuring it out!

 

Glad you were able to figure it out. Since the part you bought isn't electrical you probably could return it, or at least see if you can get a credit towards something else you might need.

 

I think he's trying to determine what position the butterfly is at in his photo. I assumed the butterfly was always closed until a vacuum or pressure was created to puill/push the arm to make the butterfly open as the engine produced more horsepower upon demand. But I've never really looked into it.
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attwifimanager

 

@vovexe
something i noticed wanted to share with you to see if its normal or can be adjusted with CVTz50 app..
On manual says the butterfly valve closes when engine RPM goes about 3500. I noticed mine closes at 2000. ( tested when idle )
Could this be a malfunction or could it be reset or maybe modified with the app?
Thank you

 

On manual says the butterfly valve closes when engine RPM goes about 3500. I noticed mine closes at 2000. ( tested when idle )
Could this be a malfunction or could it be reset or maybe modified with the app?

No, ECU does not have any adjustments here.

FSM says valve position also depends on other factors like overall engine load - so likely closure RPM designed to be different in different scenarios like idling, cruising, climbing.