Approximately how much $?

 

Do a bit search in ebay...

They dont cost that much because not many people are interested in them

 

Reply for matt

I paid 65.XXus(w/o the bulb) for one and the other 200us(w bulb)... not bad .. and of course the ampifier.. i would recommend the retrofit to anyone.. looks awesome.. I upgraded my bulbs to 8500K HID, super blue..
SugarRushMurano and myself are trying to get the High beams to work so We should figure things out in a few days..

For the Headlights,, Well on e-bay these days, the price hovers around 200.00 each usuallly in very good condition and complet with bulds and so one (plug and play type of thing)..

JAck

 

HID

I have a driver's side available at $175US shipped (within the US).
Complete, tested, with new D2S bulb (OEM 4300K)

 

I installed the "cheap blue bulbs" (fake HID lights)...I had removed them from my '01 Durango....surprised they used same bulbs(9007) ...easy to install topside...removed top half air cleaner box for driver's side....coolant overflow tank for passenger side...the more little projects I do, the more impressed I am with MO quality for little things..eg coolant overflow tank...in previous vehicles this would be installed with cheap self tapping phillips screws into plastic or cheap metal clips....Mo's tank held by 2 fine threaded 10mm bolts ; one into the top of the motor mount assembly; the other into a strong bracket with machined threads....quality...

 

senza... just be careful on those cheap blue bulbs.

I installed them on my other 2 cars, burnt the wiring/relays/switch of the car. And since the damage is caused by aftermarket part, then it is not covered under warranty. So be careful.
Those bulb draws too much constant current to achieve its white-bluish output. And since they use filament, and you are burning it at higher temp, the life of the bulb will be shorter then regular 9007 halogen bulb.

Of course, if you installed the Sylvania Sylverstar or Philip Blue Vision, then they are supposed to be ok. Aside from the fact that they are not cheap around $50 a pair, their 'current-draw' properties have been tested againts oem wiring. <Can anyone can confirm this?>

Why dont go HID? $400ish is what you will spend (from ebay) and it looks way cool.
You can even sell the halogen headlight housing to a junkyard for around $100 a pair, this will help you cover a portion of the $400 cost. Just my accounting here

 

SugarRush - Being electrically "challenged", wouldn't a fuse blow before wiring/switches,etc melt because the "cheap blue bulbs" draw too much current?...they have lasted 3 years in previous vehicle...cost approx. $75CAN...don't really improve lighting at all..just a whiter light...

 

senza.. answers ...

SugarRush - Being electrically "challenged", wouldn't a fuse blow before wiring/switches,etc melt because the "cheap blue bulbs" draw too much current?...

It depends on the current draw of the bulb and the design of the vehicle wiring/relays/switch ampere tolerance.

FORMULA : Power = voltage * current (P= V * I)

Fact1:
Let say your fuse is a 10amp fuse. This means that if the current is more than 10 amp, the fuse will open circuit (disconnect) right?

Fact2:
Let say regular 9007 halogen bulb needs 4 amp.
Hence the regular 9007 bulb will need power = 4*12volt = 48watt. The factory lighting system (switch/relays) is designed to withstand that much current draw (plus minus a small tolerance) let say up to 6 amp.

Fact3:
You buy a blue bulb that is 110 watt, so that it burns brighter. Fine. How much current this will draw? Using the above formula, it will burn 110 watt /12 volt = 9.1 amp. Sure it is still below the 10amp right? Your fuse will not blow out, and you are ok.

But a constant current draw of 9.1amp which is awfully close to the 10 amp limit, will cause the wiring/relay become hot, and overtime it will burnt out.
This is what happen to me, twice.

There are ppl who beefed up the wiring on their vehicle, replacing the switches and relays and wirings so that they can handle higher wattage bulb. This is, believe to be, the safest solution for the 'white-blue-bulb' current draw.

Hope this is helpful.

 

SugarRush - thanks for the in depth info...I still have the container the "blue bulbs" came in...I'll check the specs to see if there could be a problem...

 

Blue bulbs :thumbsdown:

Look, everyone else by now can tell that they're not HID. They don't provide the same light output of HID, in fact they give worse overall output than clear bulbs of the same wattage. So, at this point (say 3-4 years after the ricers started pimping these things) it's safe to say that blue bulbs are not the way to go in your headlights.

 

This is a question for ekaxel.. (of for those who knows)

Remember the external relay solution that you provided under this same thread to get the hi-beam in my oem hid retrofit project?

I am just wondering where can i pull the batery power connection (with 15 amp fuse) into the external relays per your diagram.
The wiring inside the IPDM for the hot-cable (positive) is very thick and hence i dont think splicing it is a good idea.

Hence, after analysing the wiring and pinouts diagram from murano service manual, page PG-43, i come to the consluison that i can use pin #19 or 34. They are unused and what i need to do is to replace fuse #89 or #90 with 15amp.

Am i correct? Thanks.

Pic attached

 

picture of my OEM HID retrofit result is posted here in my galerry...

for thse who are interested, you can find it here:

My Gallery

 

Was there ever a relatively easy resolution to getting the high beams to work in an OEM swapout from halogen to Xenon? Do you know if I also need a "computerized high voltage headlight control module" as is listed in an ebay auction?

 

Was there ever a relatively easy resolution to getting the high beams to work in an OEM swapout from halogen to Xenon? Do you know if I also need a "computerized high voltage headlight control module" as is listed in an ebay auction?

Yes. Unfortunately off of the top of my head I do not remember who the member was who did it and provided "how to install" pictures of it. I do remember SugarRush e-mailed them to me and I still have them at home. I will try to look them up for you and even post them in the gallery (with proper credits of course). Please PM me if I forget to do it...

Edit: the high beam works with wiring a couple of relays. No need for the e-bay stuff.

 

Yup simple relays mod...

I formatted my pcs and hence i requested zebelkhan to resend it to me. All i have are hard copies and if i scan them, it will look sligh blurry.

Again: The hi beam *will* work with simple relay mod.

 

SugarRush,

E-mailed the pics to you. please let me know if you don't get them. Also, I went ahead and posted the pics in my gallery but I can't give proper credit to the owner of the pictures because unfortunately I still do not remember If you remember who the original person was that did this mod and provided these pictures please let me know so I can give him the credit.

 

This update is really appreciated. Thanks for the super-quick input!

 

HID aiming question

Ok, so amongst my excessive Ebay bids and buys, I now have three OEM HID housings, and three complete wiring harnesses, one set to be sold off at a later date. Two questions I have, before I tackle the upgrade, are:

1. Has anyone installed the interior control I have read about that comes in an SE for aiming the headlights? I notice there is a coil attached to the projectors that appears to have the ability to move the assembly left and right, while the height level is manually adjusted from what I can tell and read in other posts using the small white plastic screw on the housings. Is it necessary to install an interior control as well?

2. Does the fact that I have Canadian daytime running lights affect the headlight relay wiring needed? Canadian DTRL's are the lower bumper driving lamps, so I suspect not, but want to make sure.

Stay tuned for pics of my aftermarket Katzkin complete leather interior just installed today in their 'Autumn' color, very close to OEM for 2003, plus my black chrome SE rims on their way up from California soon. :2:

 

I don't know how much of the wiring is in there, but if you pull off the panel on the left side, below the vent, you'll see the connectors for the switches, taped up inside the dash.

I've not pursued it, but I've often wondered, if that's there, what about the rest of the HID wiring?

 

I will try to answer...

MO in TO:
Has anyone installed the interior control I have read about that comes in an SE for aiming the headlights? I notice there is a coil attached to the projectors that appears to have the ability to move the assembly left and right, while the height level is manually adjusted from what I can tell and read in other posts using the small white plastic screw on the housings. Is it necessary to install an interior control as well?

Jaak:
I've not pursued it, but I've often wondered, if that's there, what about the rest of the HID wiring?

Jaak, the interior aiming leveler wiring for a murano that has no HID *is not* there. Even the IPDM control modules are different.
So far there are 3 version of IPDM: one for base murano, one for medium loaded murano (with VDC and HID) and one for fully loaded murano (VDC HID NAV). Retrofitting the auto leveler inside the cabin on a base murano will be very challenging as the wiring and the electronic control module must be retrofited as well.

Yet, for "MO-inTO", dont worry! This should not discourage you to retrofit that oem HID headlights. IMHO you dont really need the autoleveler. I have several vehicles before murano that have HID but no leveler feature in the cabin. There is a small plastic screw behidn the headlight to adjust the aiming of the HID beam. I used that one to aim my HID properly after retrofit. So far, no one flash their headlight!

The purpose of the in cabin leveler is not to substitute the small white screws' function. Anyway, only a small vertical angle of the HID cut off beam is changed if you use the in cabin leveler for adjusting headlight.

Example 1:
Let say you go to The Homedepot and get 90lbs of concrete and haul it home, it will lowered your murano right? So you can raise the headlight beam by using the leveler instead of opening the engine bay and use the plastic screw. Then you can raise it back up once you unload all those loads fromk the murano, again using the leveler.

Example 2:
Imagine if you are driving on a hilly roads, at night. Sometimes by raising the headlight further (higher) will provide better plane of view behind that roadbend at the back of that steep downhill.
Instead of you having to stop in the middle of nowhere, adjust the beam using the screw in the engine bay, you use the leveler to raise your beam.

 

Hmmm.... I'll have to take a picture of what I'm talking about, as it really does look like it's there on mine. It's quite possible that they have different harnesses in different Muranos.. Could be 'cause mine's an '03 or Canadian, or first build, or a mistake, or whatever.

I'll take the pic, then cross reference it to the service manual as it's got diagrams of all the harnesses. I've never actually checked it out before. But there's two unused connectors right behind there, but taped up onto part of the dash.

 

If you pull the cover off on the left side (it just pulls straight off) and look inside and up, you may find two cables taped up to the inside of the dash. Pull off the tape and here's what you get (at least on my 2003 SL):

 

One of them's four conductors... Hmmm.. Looks familiar...

 

Looking at the harness, it appears I have wiring for VDC as well.

 

Just checked my 04 SL. I have the wires too....