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Replacing license plate light instructions

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37K views 25 replies 22 participants last post by  abossladyatwork  
#1 ·
If anyone is interested, I upgraded my license plate lights to Philips leds. Looks nice and was relatively easy to do. I was bored so here's how to do it in excessive detail.


1. I used Philips 194's. Came in a 2 pack for $12.19 on Amazon.


2. Remove the 4 clips across the bottom edge of the hatch trim panel. You can see these when the hatch is open and you look at the bottom edge where the plastic panel wraps underneath. These clips are the best. Just slip a small flat screwdriver in the small slot on the side and the center post will pull right out about 3/8". Once that post is sticking out, grab the post and pull the whole clip right out of the hole.


3. Still looking at the bottom edge, on the right side is the recessed pull down handle. This is held in place by ridges built into the handle itself along the long dimension of the handle. Pretty easy to pull out without any tools.


4. Don't try to remove the hatch activation switch. It's in the panel rather securely and you'll bugger up the panel for sure if you try to remove it. Just leave it in place.


5. Now the only thing holding the panel in place is a bunch of hidden friction clips throughout the panel.


6. Start at the bottom corner and you should be able to pop off the clip near that corner and the one that's going up the side towards the top panel. Do the same thing on the other bottom corner.


7. Now, with a flashlight, you should be able to pull down the bottom edge and see inside the panel. From the corner nearest the activation switch, look inside and you'll see the switch housing. There is a green plug that goes into the back of the switch. The release tab is on the underside of the green plug towards the ground. Release that plug and then the switch will be free to come off with the panel.


8. Now by pulling on the bottom edge gently, the rest of the clips should easily release. Try not to angle the panel too much as that will increase the chances of deforming the clips.


9. I had 2 of my clips get messed up while doing this. I checked 3 Nissan dealers near me and none had them in stock. One ordered 4 for me and they came in the next day. I would recommend ordering a couple of these in advance so that you have the if you need them. They were about $3.50 each. Nissan part number 01553-0162U. "Clip-Trim".


10. Once the panel is off, you can see the bulb sockets from inside the hatch. No need to remove the outer strip over the plate that houses the lights. The bulb sockets simply do a quarter twist and then come right out. If the bulbs don't light, pull them out and reverse them. Neither of mine lit up until I flipped them around. When pulling the leds out of the socket be careful. When I did this, one of the frosted dome lenses on the led came off. I had to super glue it back on and then it was fine. Be sure to grab and pull by the base.


11. Once you know the lights are working fine, time to button things up. If you can get an extra set of hands for the next step it's helpful but not required. You'll need to hold the panel in position while you reconnect the plug for the activation switch. A little awkward.


12. Once that's done, try to get the panel in the correct position. You can see in from the side to get the corner and side clips aligned with their respective holes. Do each corner. Once those pop in, the rest fell right into place.


13. Lastly, replace the 4 post clips along the bottom edge. Make sure the posts are out while you insert the base back into the holes then just push the posts in. Re-install the pull down handle making sure you have it going the correct direction as it's angled a certain way for pulling downward.


14. That's it. Your done.


SAFETY NOTE: While working on the hatch, I had pulled it down to about eye level. When I put the bulbs in, I went around to the front and turned on my lights. I went back to see if they worked before putting everything back together and when I rounded the back corner of the car, the edge of the hatch caught me right in the middle of the forehead. Blood was dripping off my nose in seconds. Not fun. I dropped like PK Subban when somebody skates past him;). No stitches required but it took about 30 minutes to get it to stop leaking. Don't make the same stupid mistake I did.
 
#4 ·
Thank you for your detailed instruction - I will be following these very soon. I've got a 2015 SV AWD and love it.
Did you find the bright LEDS bother your backup cam?

I also want to replace my backup lights but have no idea how to access them - Do you?

Thanks, Brian (Ottawa, Ontario Canada)
 
#6 ·
Can you take notes and maybe photos of the process for trunk light? I want to replace mine but don't want to damage anything.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
Once again thanks for the write up. Really helped. Getting those first few friction clips to release got me a bit nervous since I was worried of breaking something.
But overall, talk about a pain... I think doing the headlights was easier than getting the hatch cover off. And then what's even more difficult is putting it back on. Make sure to have a buddy around to help you with allignment and popping back in the friction clips.
 
#15 ·
SAFETY NOTE: While working on the hatch, I had pulled it down to about eye level. When I put the bulbs in, I went around to the front and turned on my lights. I went back to see if they worked before putting everything back together and when I rounded the back corner of the car, the edge of the hatch caught me right in the middle of the forehead. Blood was dripping off my nose in seconds. Not fun. I dropped like PK Subban when somebody skates past him;). No stitches required but it took about 30 minutes to get it to stop leaking. Don't make the same stupid mistake I did.
Excellent instructions! Thanks (although.... I am not planning to do this one). While changing out the cargo lights however, I had reason (forget why) to leave the hatch partially down - and did the same thing you did!

For future reference: "http://www.how-to-stitch-those-nasty-cuts-yourself.com"

:jester:
 
#22 ·
Thanks to BlackMax and the other contributors of this thread.


The instructions here were a big help swapping out the halogens for LED bulbs. There are few small suggestions I would add to make things a bit easier. The first is getting a second set of hands to help hold the removed panel. This avoids the need to disconnect the power hatch button and keep the connection intact. Once the panel is removed the bulb swap takes a minute or so before you re-install.


The second suggestion (and this is key) start removing the panel in the center at the rear wiper. You can quite easily get your finger tips inside the panel ridge and make the first friction pin disconnection. One you free the first friction pin the rest come out very easily. Make your way clockwise around the panel; you should have it fully released in no time. By starting at the rear wiper you essentially eliminate the risk of bending any friction pins.

Based on the BlackMax's instructions here were my tweaks:

1. I used Philips 194's. Came in a 2 pack over the counter at Canadian Tire (for us Canadians).

2. Remove the 4 clips across the bottom edge of the hatch trim panel. You can see these when the hatch is open and you look at the bottom edge where the plastic panel wraps underneath. These clips are the best. Just slip a small flat screwdriver in the small slot on the side and the center post will pull right out about 3/8". Once that post is sticking out, grab the post and pull the whole clip right out of the hole.

3. Still looking at the bottom edge, on the right side is the recessed pull down handle. This is held in place by ridges built into the handle itself along the long dimension of the handle. - Mine was in pretty tight. I used a non-marring trim pry tool - avaialable from any Auto store or amazon. You could also use a small flathead screwdriver here.

4. Don't try to remove the hatch activation switch. It's in the panel rather securely and you'll bugger up the panel for sure if you try to remove it. Just leave it in place.

5. Now the only thing holding the panel in place is a bunch of hidden friction clips throughout the panel.

6. Start removing the panel in the center at the rear wiper. You can quite easily get your finger tips inside the panel ridge and make the first friction pin disconnection. One you free the first friction pin the rest come out very easily. Make your way clockwise around the panel; you should have it fully released in no time.

7. Have someone hold the release panel and take the weight off the still connected rear hatch button connection.

8. Once the panel is off, you can see the bulb sockets from inside the hatch. No need to remove the outer strip over the plate that houses the lights. The bulb sockets simply do a quarter twist and then come right out. If the bulbs don't light, pull them out and reverse them. Neither of mine lit up until I flipped them around. When pulling the leds out of the socket be careful. When I did this, one of the frosted dome lenses on the led came off. I had to super glue it back on and then it was fine. Be sure to grab and pull by the base.

9. Once you know the lights are working fine, time to button things up. Try to get the panel in the correct position. You can see in from the side to get the corner and side clips aligned with their respective holes. Do each corner. Once those pop in, the rest fell right into place.

10. Lastly, replace the 4 post clips along the bottom edge. Make sure the posts are out while you insert the base back into the holes then just push the posts in. Re-install the pull down handle making sure you have it going the correct direction as it's angled a certain way for pulling downward.

11. That's it. Your done.
 

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#24 ·
Just did the bulb replacement, thanks for the updated version with pictures it helped alot. Since I have the S version and do not have the rear hatch button I was able to remove the panel by myself. The hardest part was to get my finger in the center near the wipers but once you get the 1st friction pin it was easy to remove the rest clock wise. :D
 
#25 ·
Sorry to bump an old thread but thanks to @Liamoc for the great how to and photos. Picked my 2017.5 (!) up two weeks ago (company vehicle) and had a couple of leftover 194 clears from upgrading interior lighting on my 4Runner. That car just unscrewed the lenses and I was baffled how to drop them down.

With the confidence of the photos, I was literally able to replace and reinstall the panel in about 8 minutes total including the bulbs. What a fast simple subtle mod. I'll try to snap a pic oof the change tonight if anyone interested. Thanks again all!

TM