[EricB]

I wish I had your nice gear oil pump, would've made my life so much better.
Stocking my tool chest one job at a time, so I'll probably have one eventually. Right now I have just about everything else, even was able to replace the front two wheel bearings!

 

[touring-jay]

I wish I had your nice gear oil pump, would've made my life so much better.
Stocking my tool chest one job at a time, so I'll probably have one eventually. Right now I have just about everything else, even was able to replace the front two wheel bearings!

That little pump is only $10 at the local auto parts; it has served me very well with other vehicles too.

 

[KJAM2009]

getting set to rear diff first, and for first time on this. Dumb question, for the loosening direction , do we pull up towards the underside of the vehicle? or go the other way.
I plan to get a stubby hex + a cheater bar. Can I expect this to be a tough nut to break? Thanks.

 

[KJAM2009]

rear diff pics

Completed job. First time at this type of maintenance. Thanks to the forum members. Here is my contribution. 62000 miles

Had an incline on the parking area so a couple of 2x10"s under the rear tires gave me some extra space for photos.

10mm stubby was just perfect for space. Needed a few hammer taps to get them to budge. Always seem to muck up the direction when lying down - thus the earlier comment. Direction - up and out.

500 ml came out - I let it drip for a good 30 mins. It was pretty black, fair amount of gunk on the magnet. Washer is not a crush type, just flipped it over. Both where in perfect condition. Pump kit is very slick, took about 25 pumps to fill. Oil in the line drains right back into the bottle when fill was complete.

Next up the transfer case and then based on the the CVT sticky maybe time to inspect that for first time also.

 

[Pilgrim]

Nicely done. There was indeed quite a bit of material captured by that magnet!

 

[peterzulu]

Changed Tcase oil myself. Thanks all members for the good write-ups.
As per advice from Tigger57 I removed an extra bolt which made a job slightly easier (original post and pictures here ).

Picture: Tigger57

 

[Innaman Joubert]

Hi all, I replaced a front diff. driveshaft output seal 2 months ago at 213700km.The ****ty dealership reported it to the owner at 175000km which declined a replacement 'cause of an already expensive service bill.At 190000km service the same dealer didn't remind/notify the owner of the leak neither did they top-up the diff. oil as preventative measure.With a borescope confirmed no damage to heliciodal gears and flushed with parrafin and removed brass Timken bearing cage shavings from excess heat.Used Liqui-Moly G4+/G5+ and Gear Protector.A new whine is confirmed as Transfer case(front diff.) pinion bearing runout/wear(3-5mm on propshaft flange).The 3,5l V6 absolutely bakes everything around it including the front diff. and breather pipe explaining some oil loss out of the transfer case and resultant wear besides propshaft oil seal leak.I am going to pull the Transfer Case and have it repaired with new bearings.Thank you Turbizzy for the shortcut way of pulling the TC(diff).Going to replace CVT oil seal and TC oil seal as the Mo has been sweating a while now.I am adding heat shields around the V6 rear bank exhaust manifold and bottom braided exhaust coupling to improve heat protection to the diff.I fashioned a diff. filter as the front plugs are not magnetic and won't help capturing brass shavings.Also replaced brake discs.Happy motoring fellow Mo-fo's!

 

[kevintomb]

How hard were the Rear Diff plugs to get out?

I tried mine but couldnt get enough leverage, laying on driveway on my back, like I need more room

 

[Tia86]

Well; I did the fluid change on my Rear Differential and my Transfercase.

The job took about 1/2 hour for the rear and about 1 hour for the Transfercase. The only reason it took that long for the Transfercase is that the filler plug is Very hard to get at.

I used Castrol's Syntec 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil($12.50/946mL) and needed only 1 bottle for both.

The Rear Diff took about 500 to 520 mL of oil and the Transfercase about 300 to 320 mL of oil.

Tool/Parts you need:
A- Drain Pan
B- Rags or Paper Towels
C- Gear Oil
D- 2 Aluminum Crush washer for the Rear Diff Plugs
E- Liquid Gasket for Transfer Case Plugs
F- 10 mm Allen Key-type wrench for the Rear Dill Plugs and for
the Drain Plug on the Transfer Case
G- 12 mm Boxed end wrench for the Filler Plug on the
Transfercase. You should have 2(an 8" or so long one to
loosen + a short one about 5" or less to work after loosening)
H- Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil
I- 1/4" Inside Diameter Tubing about 12" long(To pump the oil in)
J- Cardboard (it gets messy)

How To:

1)-Park on level ground. I used 2 2x4's stacked so the whole car sat up an extra 3" off the ground for clearance.

2)-Spray some Liquid Wrench on Filler and Drain Plugs and let sit for a few minutes to soak.

3)-IMPORTANT....Remove the Filler Plug FIRST*. If you cant undo the filler plug; STOP and have it done in a shop. No need to go any further if you can't fill
There may be some oil that comes out of the Filler Plug so have your drain pan under it.

4)-Remove Drain Plug and let oil completely drain. The drain plug on the Rear Dill has a built in Magnet. Wipe it clean. After the oil is drained; install the new crush washer and install the drain plug.

5)-Attach the 1/4" Tubing to the Oil bottle. Insert the Tubing into the Filler hole. Squeeze the Oil bottle and fill until the oil over-flows out of the filler hole.

6)-Install new crush washer on filler plug and tighten. Wipe area clean or use degreaser afterwards.

The proceedure is the same for both Rear Diff and Transfer Case with the execption of the crush washer on the Rear Dill and Liquid Gasket for the Transfer Case.

Be carefull about dripping oil onto the exhaust pipe when doing the Transfer Case. Stuff rags or paper towels up in the "drip zone".

Here are some photos.

Seriously- you are the best! Thanks for this!