[I need coffee]

Locate the OBDII connector under the dash and check the following with ignition OFF:

Terminal #16: battery voltage
Terminal #4: Continuity test to ground. There should be continuity.
Terminal #5: Continuity test to ground. There should be continuity.
Terminal #6 and #14: check resistance between these two terminals. It should be between 55 - 65 Ohms.

 

[I need coffee]

And just as a side note--based on the experience of many posters on this site, there is wide variability among parts stores as far as capability of pulling codes. They don't always use the most capable scan tools available to them so one store may be able to pull ABS codes while another down the street won't. I think the only thing one can count on is that if there is a generic engine code causing the MIL to come on then most stores can probably pull them. If it's an ABS or SRS fault, maybe/maybe not. I doubt any use a scan tool capable of reading body codes. However, whatever they use should at least be able to connect to the ECM.

What I would suggest if you don't have a scan tool available to you is call the store and ask them what tool they use to do scans and then you can look up the specs yourself on the manufacturer's website to see if it's worth taking the trip to the store.

 

[I need coffee]

If Terminal #16 of the DLC port doesn't have power, check the fuse under the dash labeled "ELEC PARTS (BAT)".

 

[Scottrodds]

No voltage on the other pin in the relay housing when test light hooked to pin and battery positive. All the pins in the one connector check out. If I unplug e11 there is no voltage on the harness side of #46 in park or drive. There is on the pin in the ipdm in park. I did the ohm test on my old ipdm and got 316 ohms. Guess I’m gonna try to get to the BCM

 

[Scottrodds]

Ok so much to my surprise all the terminals you had me check at the BCU are correct

 

[I need coffee]

Ok so much to my surprise all the terminals you had me check at the BCU are correct

Did you also test Terminal #52 while trying to start the engine to see if battery voltage gets pulled down to 0 volts?

 

[I need coffee]

Also, you stated in a previous post when doing testing on the starter control relay socket that you could hear clicking inside the IPDM next to it in the area of where the starter relay is when attempting to start the engine, correct?

 

[Scottrodds]

I did check 52, batter voltage remains the same. I can hear a click , like a relay click coming from that area.

 

[Scottrodds]

Also I just realized I did all the BCM testing with the relay out of the IPDM. Will that make a difference?

 

[I need coffee]

Also I just realized I did all the BCM testing with the relay out of the IPDM. Will that make a difference?

The starter control relay that you took out is not connected to the BCM so it doesn't matter. We've been trying to determine if the BCM is grounding the starter relay inside the IPDM, but it appears not as the voltage on the control wire isn't dropping nor is there battery power at the starter control relay when trying to start the engine (...the IPDM is apparently not grounding that either). The question now is why? Is the fault with the BCM or is there something else we're missing? It's detecting the P/N switch signal from the TCM, it's getting the stop lamp switch signal, it seems to be getting the push button start signal, and it can see the key fob is in the car because that "Push Brake Pedal" notification comes on.

One thing that's curious is that the parts store clerks said they couldn't connect their scan tools to the ECM. I believe you verified that the DLC connector is measuring the correct voltage and resistance measurements, correct? One other thing to check with that is for continuity of the K line since that's the serial communication link between the scan tool and ECM. You would want to verify continuity between Terminal #7 of the DLC port and Terminal #88 of the ECM. The ECM has three connectors and Terminal #88 is on the 3rd (bottom) connector and has an orange wire. Getting to that connector will require unplugging the others (they all use a lever release system) and I recall having to loosen the ECM mounting bolts because the TCM connector is in the way.

 

[I need coffee]

Before checking the K line, the Check Engine Light is illuminated when the ignition is ON? If the ECM has power then that light should come on with ignition on. Also, disconnect the battery negative before disconnecting the ECM connectors.

 

[jbarnett250]

Just for the hell of it I took a video recording of the IPDM when cycling through the power modes. I took this with my foot off the brake so the car just cycles through the modes (off -> acc -> on -> off). You can hear the rapid click I described in a previous post. I thought that was only present when the car tried to crank but I found its actually there just going to ON. I have no idea what that rapid click is but wanted to clarify that I was wrong earlier when I speculated that car must be trying to crank because of the presence of that rapid click. It makes that noise when you transition from acc to on whether the car is cranking or not. You just don't hear it if the car is able to start because it's fast and the car starts immediately and masks the IPDM sounds. You can't really even hear these sounds from inside the cabin with the door and hood closed.

There are a lot of relay sounds in this video and a weird screeching when the car goes from on to off. Sometimes having a video of a normally working car can help somebody debug their malfunctioning car by comparing the sounds a good one makes to theirs. I suspect some of these clicks must be missing from @Scottrodds IPDM when going through these power modes. Not saying there's any logical troubleshooting to do based on this but just another piece of info.

The audio is bad because the phone is in the engine bay and I'm in the car trying to describe when I'm pushing the start button and what state the car is in. I seem to have forgotten how I added text to my previous video a month or two ago. I have no recollection about what editor I used to do it. This is why I don't publish videos.

 

[Scottrodds]

Stupid question, but is there something I could jump with a wire or bypass something just to try to get it to start? Just temporarily to see which part is actually bad. I also have the old IPDM that I could rig up to see if the other IPDM is bad

 

[I need coffee]

Stupid question, but is there something I could jump with a wire or bypass something just to try to get it to start? Just temporarily to see which part is actually bad. I also have the old IPDM that I could rig up to see if the other IPDM is bad

It's not a stupid question at all. In fact, if the starter relay was working I was going to suggest putting a jumper wire in between the two load-side terminals of the starter control relay and see if the engine starts. But, it seems the starter relay isn't working because the BCM isn't grounding its solenoid so the starter control relay won't get any power to flow through the jumpers. I suppose you can try inserting a jumper wire into Terminal #46 and have someone try to start the engine at the same time you connect the other end of the jumper to ground and see if it starts, but I believe you also tested the control-side of the starter control relay (the terminal the IPDM grounds) with your test light to power and got nothing so it would seem the IPDM isn't grounding the starter control relay either.

One other thing you can try to just confirm the BCM isn't grounding the starter relay is to unplug connector E11 and probe Terminal #46 with your test light to battery power while someone tries to start the engine. If it doesn't light up then it's pretty much confirmed that the BCM isn't trying to ground that part of the circuit. My main concerns at this point are the BCM not grounding the starter relay and, possibly, not sending the start request to the IPDM (...perhaps explaining why you didn't see the starter control relay solenoid terminal ground with your test light).

And sorry to respond with a stupid question, but you've been keeping the battery fully charged through all this, correct? It doesn't take much battery discharge to cause the relays to not function correctly or control modules to stop working.

BTW, you asked earlier about a scan tool suggestion. Another poster (I believe @PaulDay, but maybe someone else) recommended OBDLink Mx+. I set up a price watch if it dropped in price on Amazon and got an e-mail a couple of days ago (...it's currently $112 as a Black Friday deal) so I bought it. I haven't had much time to play around with it much, but I can confirm that it has options for enhanced OEM live data and was actually able to see specific PIDs detailed in the service manual for the BCM and IPDM. For example, I graphed the starter relay request PID for my car and started the engine and below is what I saw. Anyway, not super cheap, but any tool that can read live data from the BCM and IPDM at this price range is an absolute steal IMO. You would just need to download the software to your phone (Apple or Android). Plus, it's not Nissan-specific so you can use it for your other cars. However, I would note that the documentation is rather lacking and interface not as intuitive as some others, but again I haven't had time to use it much. You can also see if the parts store clerks had a real problem connecting with the ECM or if they just need more "training." If you get it I would suggest doing the initial setup on another car that runs fine just in case.

 

[jbarnett250]

How about ignition on and just put battery voltage on pin 80? This bypasses all the interlocks that prevent the car from cranking and you just crank it yourself. We used to do this with a remote start button to bump the engine from the engine compartment in a car you could access the starter solenoid easily (old MG). If the Murano starter were easier to access you could just jump B to S terminal. I have no idea if whatever is keeping your car from starting will prohibit it from running but this should turn the starter. You have the starter control relay out. You could put battery voltage right at that contact to the starter S terminal which will bypass all the BCM and IPDM interlocks to crank the starter.

I haven't tried this myself so play at your own risk....

 

[PaulDay]

BTW, you asked earlier about a scan tool suggestion. Another poster (I believe @PaulDay, but maybe someone else) recommended OBDLink Mx+.

Best scan tool that I bought for the money. The module has had it's firmware updated 3 times since I've bought it over two years ago, along with numerous other software updates. Manufacturer automotive modules seem to be updated also, with more PIDs being added over time. They also have a good forum:

ScanTool.net Forum - Index

For the best monitoring setup, download ODBWiz from ODBLink's website for windows. You can setup some very nice monitoring screens for live data while you're driving, while saving the data for later review.

I do a 10-minute run in my cars about twice a year, monitoring emissions, along with a few other readings with the ODBWiz program running on my laptop. It's alerted me to several potential issues that could affect my milage, like a dirty MAF sensor.

Have a good day.

 

[Scottrodds]

So I figured I would update you guys. We took it to the shop and the ECM was bad. Finally got it back today. Before I could make it home the ( I guess traction lights) came on the dash and the brakes started locking up on it. It has a brake code C 1142 on it now. So I have to figure that out now

 

[I need coffee]

So I figured I would update you guys. We took it to the shop and the ECM was bad. Finally got it back today. Before I could make it home the ( I guess traction lights) came on the dash and the brakes started locking up on it. It has a brake code C 1142 on it now. So I have to figure that out now

First, thank you for coming back and updating the resolution for your no crank, no start problem. The issue with the scan tools being unable to communicate with the ECM definitely pointed to some problem there, but I'm surprised that was the root cause of the engine not even cranking. As far as I can tell, the ECM is not involved in the starter circuit except to tell the BCM the engine is running so it turns off the starter relay. Interesting...

Start a new thread with this new problem with the ABS system and I'll try to do some research. The code itself relates to the brake fluid pressure sensor, which is integrated into the ABS Control Unit.

 

[ScottH]

You would want to check what's going on with the transmission range switch circuit although that would be a secondary concern relative to the current no-start problem since power is being sent to the starter relays.

Seeing your reply here I’m hoping you can help me. My 2011 Murano just shut off. Would not crank to start. After doing checks fuse 50 in Ipdm was blown. Replaced fuse and car started right up and ran for 1 second then stalled again and fuse 50 was blown again. So far replaced all 6 coils and plugs and both cam sensors. I also know it isn’t the mass airflow sensor. Fuse still blows and it stalls. Any thoughts?