Is it possible to replace ONLY the ball joint without having to buy complete lower control arm? I see some for sale for only the lower B.J. for around 50. I understnad it may need to be pressed in, and thats fine we have a small machine shop where I work that can do that no problem. Im trying to keep this repair as cheap costing as possible as the cars gotta last 3 weeks til trade in. thanks in advance guys.
Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
tammiesmurano03
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:2: :2: Just make you post the "good" pictures. Good luck.jsmart said:
to quote the great Ricky Bobby..."that just happened!"
it took about 30 mins. and I used a press to get the old ball joint out. Nothing to fancy but here goes...any questions please ask and send me any money you have been able to save by doing this yourself to my offshore Swiss bank account. It should be about $225 per reader. Thanks!
took the wheel off...of course
here's what I'm working with
used the air wrench to remove the nut
it took about 30 mins. and I used a press to get the old ball joint out. Nothing to fancy but here goes...any questions please ask and send me any money you have been able to save by doing this yourself to my offshore Swiss bank account. It should be about $225 per reader. Thanks!
took the wheel off...of course
here's what I'm working with
used the air wrench to remove the nut
used a punch to press out the bolt...it was in there good
used a seperator to get the ball joint out...took a little muscle and I found this little pry technique helped quite a bit
got it to pop out
to make it a bit easier I went ahead and removed the tie rod
wiped out the hole and kept going...here is the part I used and I got it for $27 at Auto Zone
the set-up to press the new one back in
and the complete job
used this cool tool to put the new ring on
and there it is complete
now we just go backwards...load the new ball joint back in the hole
put the bolt back through and tighten it down
dont forget to reattach the tie rod
a job well done...send all checks to me!
the set-up to press the new one back in
and the complete job
used this cool tool to put the new ring on
and there it is complete
now we just go backwards...load the new ball joint back in the hole
put the bolt back through and tighten it down
dont forget to reattach the tie rod
a job well done...send all checks to me!
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1,202 Posts
:claphead: :claphead: :claphead:
I am soooo full. I just ate some words; my own
Great job jsmart! Well documented and I would like to be the first to nominate this as a sticky!
I don't think the Canadian models are manufactured differently but I don't remember seeing a retainer ring.
However, I am humbled
I am soooo full. I just ate some words; my own
Great job jsmart! Well documented and I would like to be the first to nominate this as a sticky!
I don't think the Canadian models are manufactured differently but I don't remember seeing a retainer ring.
However, I am humbled
Thanks John!BikerJohn said::claphead: :claphead: :claphead:
I am soooo full. I just ate some words; my own
Great job jsmart! Well documented and I would like to be the first to nominate this as a sticky!
I don't think the Canadian models are manufactured differently but I don't remember seeing a retainer ring.
However, I am humbled
I'm glad it worked also that is a huge $$$$$ saver! Just a quick FYI I was not able to find a single store in the Lousiville area that actually stocked the ball joint, but I was able to get it the next day. Also it has made a huge difference in my handling and I'm not dreading the day the other side goes out.
Now to complete my audio upgrade with the money I saved!
:2:
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:6: :6: :6: Now that's what I call ADVENTUROUS! You did an amazing job and kuddos to you. Plus you kept your words by posting the ''good'' pictures. This summer for sure I'll be doing the exact same thing and I'm glad to know that I won't have to buy the whole assembly. Again thanks for sharing!! You rock man! :18:
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191 Posts
Good write-up! When I replaced the lower balljoints on my brother's Ranger, they went in the same way. I would have gone with MOOG ball joints, few bucks more for a name-brand part. But apparently they might not make one for the Murano yet.jsmart said:
I would recommend that if your Murano has a lot of miles, it'd be better to replace the complete arm, that way you get new bushings also, or just get new bushings pressed into the old arm. I took a look at the rear bushings and not sure if that one can be pressed, or its one-piece with the rear arm support.
EDIT: from the courtesyparts.com parts list, doesnt look like the bushings are sold separately.
jsmart said:
I too appreciate the step by step pix you posted.
I have a question for you though. Did you bother to check the condition of the rear bushing of your control arm? I know you were not having any issues there but... I was just curious since you were in there already that you may have given it a glance if its repairable like you did with the ball joint.
Just saw my left control arm bushing leaking some fluid today thats why I asked. Will search for a part later on.
Hey! Thanks again for the Great Post!
I'm actually sitting at a Nissan dealership right now for a transmission leak (axle seal covered by warranty) and the sales manager comes out with $1100 in other stuff that "needs" to be done.
One of the items was a ball joint replacement and he tells me the cost is $528 because the ball joint cannot be replaced independently of the A-arm so they would have to replace the whole A arm.
Looks like it can be done in the garage with hand tools for under $50. Gotta LOVE the dealership!
They also wanted $85 to change the cabin air filter. $50 for a serpentine belt, $50 to cut off a rattling heat shield, $180 for a CVT fluid change, and other stuff I said no to instantly.
TOTAL BS
Brian
One of the items was a ball joint replacement and he tells me the cost is $528 because the ball joint cannot be replaced independently of the A-arm so they would have to replace the whole A arm.
Looks like it can be done in the garage with hand tools for under $50. Gotta LOVE the dealership!
They also wanted $85 to change the cabin air filter. $50 for a serpentine belt, $50 to cut off a rattling heat shield, $180 for a CVT fluid change, and other stuff I said no to instantly.
TOTAL BS
Brian
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600 Posts
Monty2003 said:
$85 to change the cabin air filter!!!!??? $50 to cut off a rattling heat shield!!!???? These are basically DIY things. Wow keep an eye on the leak since they are the ones doing the warranty replacment. $180 for CVT fluid change seems about right though.
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