Nissan Murano Forum banner

61 - 80 of 95 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thanks "jsmart" for the great photos. I just purchased 2 new control arms because I didn't know that the ball joint itself could be pressed out. Now I will return the control arms and look at replacing the ball joint itself, saving myself about $140 even after I purchase the new ball joint and joint removal tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,088 Posts
Done

I ended up paying the local trusted garage $273 to install, which included new front brake pads and rotors. He didn't charge me for the labor on the brakes, since they had to be removed to replace the ball joints anyway.

Overall saving....insanity!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Just changed ball joint

I just changed the ball joint. Followed the instructions on this forum and everything went very well. Took about 2 hours to do one side. The nut broke off, maybe a good thing since there was some wear and tear on the bolt. So I strongly suggest replacing both the bolt and nut.:29:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I just had my right front ball joint replaced (the entire arm) at the shop ($180 part) just curious how much it ended up costing you when you get to it done... I am at 86,000 miles on my milage, but our city streets here are terrible is why I am guessing mine went bad. I couldn't stand the clunking noise anymore!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,905 Posts
I just had my right front ball joint replaced. I am at 86,000 miles on my milage, but our city streets here are terrible is why I am guessing mine went bad.
Bad roads (TY republicans) could certainly affect your suspension. Though NE roads aren't known for being real modern, my 04 SE (bought new 10/04 and now with 94K) still has a super tight suspension system and hasn't needed a single realignment. But then, neither had my 95 Maxima that went to 192K on the entire original suspension. At that time, when I finally broke down and had the struts replaced, the Max was 14 years old and was riding a tad rough. That was also the only realignment I ever had done on that car. I'm not sure it was even needed then, based on how the car drove after getting the struts done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
documentation is awesome, great job. this is pretty much the same procedure like lower ball joints on a Mustang (86-up).

when you buy your ball joints at AutoZone you can also get the ball joint press at no charge under their tool loaner program. you pay the price of the tool as a deposit, probably $100... you get it back when you return the tool(s).
:29:
 

·
Shift|Live
Joined
·
194 Posts
great job.. i too had 2 ball joints go out on my 06.. replaced them w/ the duralast brand from autozone as well. except today, they are $45/ea! :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
if anyone wants...

I bought the ball joint, but discovered I needed the whole thing. If someone wants a good deal on a ball joint, let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
Has anyone here just replaced the LCA Bushings and not the entire LCA?
I think the bushings for the LCA just recently been available either this year or last year. Unless you have a press in your tool box, it maybe just cost the same to replace the entire LCA with new bushings and ball joint. Don't think AZ rents out the press. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Good to know you can just change the ball joints. Just did this repair today, completely put in new control arms from amazon. The back bushing was hooped on mine as well and the ball joint.

Man this car is getting to be a lemon. It has 160 kilometers. I've done wheel bearing, power steering hose, rear exhaust manifold, the 6.66 dollar o ring cooler seal, control arms, oh and a new tranny luckily 1 month before the 10 year warranty was up :) there's probably more I'm forgetting

I love the car tho
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,280 Posts
...Man this car is getting to be a lemon. It has 160 kilometers. I've done wheel bearing, power steering hose, rear exhaust manifold, the 6.66 dollar o ring cooler seal, control arms, oh and a new tranny luckily 1 month before the 10 year warranty was up :) there's probably more I'm forgetting...
Look at the bright side. You don't have anything left to break... ;)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,619 Posts
That's actually likely to be true. When you've sunk that much money and work into a car, you sometimes just drive it and hope that you have caught up with it. BTW, nice thread on the rear manifold replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Been there and done that replacing just the ball joint... Only to have the bushings make noise with play a short time later. There are two bushings and the ball joint that mount the control arm, so doing the ball joint is only 1/3 new. Plus, it takes time/effort and special press or tools to remove and replace the ball joint so it's not an easy do it yourself project. Replacing the whole control arm is... I purchased and installed a new control arm for $100 from Advance auto with a $25 coupon they put out weekly. Did the CV 1/2 shaft while I had it all apart, as I had a crack in my inner CV boot dripping spoog. Now that is a job getting the new old 1/2 shaft to snap apart from the drive shaft and also getting the new 1/2 shaft driven back on to the drive shaft. I repeat, if your a do it yourself mechanic, save the time and hastle replacing the ball joint for $50 and bolt in a new control arm for $100. Don't touch your steering arm adjustment and you will NOT need an alignment. Mine drives straight true, and the two sets of bushings are new as well. Just 3 bolts and the bushing side of the control arm is ready to remove. Remove the sway bar link top bolt only and your steering ball joint and the ball joint and you've got it whipped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Thanks "jsmart" for the great photos. I just purchased 2 new control arms because I didn't know that the ball joint itself could be pressed out. Now I will return the control arms and look at replacing the ball joint itself, saving myself about $140 even after I purchase the new ball joint and joint removal tool.


The ball joint removal tool (pickle fork) is for getting the ball joint off the hub, not removing the ball joint from the control arm. You need a press to do that, and a press to put the new ball joint in the control arm. Many make shift presses just damage the new ball joint when installed into the old control arm. It's simple do it yourself and saves so much time to just replace the control arm for $100 and get new bushings/ball joint in the process. Slam dunk 3 for 1 play and clunk protection. Look at the recent post about guy that did ball joints last year only to need bushing / new control arms this year. HA! Now he's back to square one because he skimped. It's only money. Just my advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Good to know you can just change the ball joints. Just did this repair today, completely put in new control arms from amazon. The back bushing was hooped on mine as well and the ball joint.

Man this car is getting to be a lemon. It has 160 kilometers. I've done wheel bearing, power steering hose, rear exhaust manifold, the 6.66 dollar o ring cooler seal, control arms, oh and a new tranny luckily 1 month before the 10 year warranty was up :) there's probably more I'm forgetting

I love the car tho






Hi, I am having to replace both of the control arms on my 2007 Nissan murano, but I don't know if it is needed or if to replace only the bushings and ball joint on the arms I curremntly have. I saw the amazon control arms and called to be told they were made by Dorman. Not sure how good they would be. Not sure if I should go ahead and but the complete control arms or just replace the bushings. let me know what you guys think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
The ball joint removal tool (pickle fork) is for getting the ball joint off the hub, not removing the ball joint from the control arm. You need a press to do that, and a press to put the new ball joint in the control arm. Many make shift presses just damage the new ball joint when installed into the old control arm. It's simple do it yourself and saves so much time to just replace the control arm for $100 and get new bushings/ball joint in the process. Slam dunk 3 for 1 play and clunk protection. Look at the recent post about guy that did ball joints last year only to need bushing / new control arms this year. HA! Now he's back to square one because he skimped. It's only money. Just my advice.
I have to replace the same. So better to change up the complete control arms than just the bushing and ball joint? Do you know if Dorman control arms are any good? Found a complete set with the Dorman control arms and Moog Tie Rod End for $160 on amazon. Too good to be true or should I go for it?
 
61 - 80 of 95 Posts
About this Discussion
94 Replies
41 Participants
Rube76
Nissan Murano Forum
We’re a community dedicated to Nissan Murano owners and enthusiasts. Discuss specs, safety rating, towing capacity and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top