have them check the idle rpm and if low (probably) bump it up 25 to 50 rpm and you should be good to go.

 

You have to watch messing with the idle on this car. The idle set by the ECU never changes. What changes the idle on mine is the CVT. I’m not sure what it’s doing but sometimes it’s higher and sometimes lower.

Try putting the parking brake on in gear and watch what happens. It’s the CVT, not the engine.

 

You have to watch messing with the idle on this car. The idle set by the ECU never changes. What changes the idle on mine is the CVT.

Nissan dealerships change the idle all the time with their consult devices and some aftermarket programs can do it also ... it's easy-peasy no issue at all. and once re-set higher, it stays that way.

 

Hey all, I've been dealing with a vibration at idle for quite some time now. With warmer weather it's better but not 100% gone.

Can you let me know if you feel a very light vibration on your centre console and steering wheel when stopped and idling? .

There are a few threads in this forum dealing with vibration at idle/in drive with the brakes on and various combinations of these conditions. Look at 'Need your expert opinion-clarification' and 'General Questions'.

 

Oops! Sorry Vortex. I see that you posted on both of those threads I mentioned

 

Thanks for the reply guys.

The previous threads I had participated in was regarding my idle RPM dropping to about 550 and then an vibration throughout the whole car appearing.

I've resolved that matter by replacing my positive battery terminal as it was an issue with the voltage in the car.

This threat is just in general asking if you feel a vibration on those two spots as mentioned? Like I said it's minor but I want to know if I have an issue with a mount of some sort on my car or if this is normal?

Thanks for the input though.

 

Reviving this thread.

Thought I would share how I've resolved my idle vibration issue.

Essentially I was having a low idle rpm vibration coming into the cabin through the steering wheel, seats and centre console. At times it was so bad that my passengers were able to feel it.

I ended up switching out my battery since I thought it was problematic from the beginning. It was corroding the terminals like I've never seen before.

Changed the battery to a Costco Kirkland battery and for the last 2 months noticed a massive drop in idle vibrations. RPM idles at a steady 700 and not the 500ish I was getting. No more RPM drop below 500 when moving wheel left and right during idle.

Seems like I had an electrical issue that was caused by a faulty battery.

Just a thought for others experiencing the idle vibrations.

 

Thanks for reviving this thread and sharing your experience. Have noticed the vibration while stopped in line at drive through recently. 70k miles. Popped the hood and sure enough the battery terminal corrosion is the worst I've ever seen in twenty years of car ownership. OEM so I suppose it owes me nothing at this point? New battery and new terminal connectors sounds will be my next call I guess.

Reviving this thread.

Thought I would share how I've resolved my idle vibration issue.

Essentially I was having a low idle rpm vibration coming into the cabin through the steering wheel, seats and centre console. At times it was so bad that my passengers were able to feel it.

I ended up switching out my battery since I thought it was problematic from the beginning. It was corroding the terminals like I've never seen before.

Changed the battery to a Costco Kirkland battery and for the last 2 months noticed a massive drop in idle vibrations. RPM idles at a steady 700 and not the 500ish I was getting. No more RPM drop below 500 when moving wheel left and right during idle.

Seems like I had an electrical issue that was caused by a faulty battery.

Just a thought for others experiencing the idle vibrations.

 

Wow...we all know these cars are strongly influenced by variations in voltage or battery behavior. This is a new level of strangeness. Thanks for letting us know.

 

I wonder if it was due to the severe OEM battery terminal corrosion causing the connection to be so marginal the alternator was working overtime to overcome the resistance and keep the battery charged. This in turn would leave little extra current to keep the idle normal/steady, especially when turning the wheel which would further reduce the alternator's output due to the increased load to drive the power steering pump...

Keep those battery terminals corrosion free!

I haven't had a battery that had battery terminal corrosion in decades. From what I have learned/read, battery terminal corrosion is due to a marginal/defective seal around the battery terminal post...

 

Just don't get Vaseline or other petroleum-based product in between the post and the terminal clamp. That stuff does not conduct electricity. (And BTW, neither does dielectric grease, but it's silicone-based, not petroleum-based.)