[ekaxel]

Joe:
That is correct. Diodes a much cleaner solution. How you get into the IPDM is another story. Nor hard, just a little challenging. All the diodes have to do is pull the low beam relays when the high beams are selected.
Disconnect the battery!.....

 

[njjoe]

The njjoe MO is now an OEM HID-equipped vehicle, thanks in no small part to the excellent, well-documented procedure contained in this thread. Before I pat myself on the back, however, I need to install the diodes in the IPDM to activate the high-beam shutters. That will be tomorrow's project.

Two of the four bolts securing the lamp housing are easy to remove, but the two others must be accessed through the wheel well. It is no big deal, just a little bit inconvenient. The lamp housings did not easily come out once unbolted, so I removed the curved support beams that run from the radiator to the fender. Five bolts on each side and the beams came right out, and so did the lamp housings. I also took out the air filter box but in the end found it was not necessary.

Once powered up the driver side HID was dead. I pulled the entire assembly out, replaced the lamp ($100 @ Advance Auto Parts), and all is now fine.

I pulled the driver side HVAC vent out, found the leveler harness, connected it an OEM leveler switch and facade, and buttoned it back up. I can not tell if the leveler works, as I can not hear any motors or solenoids when I rotate the wheel. I will wait until dark and test it then.

Tomorrow I will install the diodes in the IPDM.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this excellent thread. :claphead: _ :claphead: _ :claphead:

-njjoe

 

[zebelkhan]

...the relays, fuse holders, and associated wiring and connectors are not needed. Apparently all that is needed are two simple diodes installed in the IPDM. Is that really the case? Has anyone gone that route?

I wish I could help you Joe but I can't. Wait....I can. Stay away from IPDM!

Maybe that is doable , and I am sure it is, but if I were you I would take the less hazardous relay approach. You cannot harm anything that way.

 

[njjoe]

I wish I could help you Joe but I can't. Wait....I can. Stay away from IPDM!

Maybe that is doable , and I am sure it is, but if I were you I would take the less hazardous relay approach. You cannot harm anything that way.

Z-

I appreciate the advice, however the diode approach appears to be relatively straight forward. A single diode connects the low-beam relay to the high-beam relay. That's it.

Ideally, I wish I had a good relationship with a local Nissan tech because I suspect the Consult-II may be able to make the conversion within the program.

-njjoe

 

[njjoe]

I am 95% there. The diode was soldered-in, and now the high beams work just like OEM. I used the diode pictured in Kris's posting. It is a rectifier diode (IN4005) from Radio Shack (p/n 276-1104).

I had to remove the driver-side lamp housing again. The first time was to replace a burnt-out lamp, and now it was to fix the height adjustment screw. The ball on the end of the adjustment screw did not properly seat into the socket so I was unable to adjust the beam height last night. Now it works just fine.

My only problem is with the remote (in-dash) leveler. It does not appear to be working. The service manual offers little help. I can live without it for now.

-njjoe

 

[zebelkhan]

Great job. Congratulations!

 

[jkoot]

Ok, so I too am going to undertake this, have one headlight (LH) ordered, and waiting on details on a second (RH) before I to purchase that one.

I am alittle confused after reading the thread now...does the relay method not allow the headlight Hi/low to work as OEM or does the diode method only allow that to work?

And if I work on the drivers side headlight, do any modifications need to be done to the passenger side at all? or do they work in series?

Hope I make sence and that you guys can help me out!

Thanks,

J

 

[njjoe]

JK-

Both methods enable the High beams to function properly. If you do nothing then when you switch to your high beams the new HIDs will turn OFF.

At first I opted to use the relays to activate the high beams but then went with the diode because it offered the cleanest approach as far as wiring was concerned.

-njjoe

 

[jkoot]

njjoe-

So I can opt to do the diode method later on down the road even after I do the initial install with the realys?
If you dont mind me asking, what is the approximat cost (not including the headlights) of chosing one method over the other?
And only modifying the one headlight will allow both Hi's to operate?

Thanks,

J

 

[njjoe]

njjoe-

So I can opt to do the diode method later on down the road even after I do the initial install with the relays?

I think you misunderstood my post. Initially I had considered using the relays, but after reading the entire thread several times I decided to not use the relays and installed the diode instead. Although I purchased the relays I never used them.

If you install the HIDs using the relay approach, there is really no reason to go back and undo it. The relays will work just fine.

The diode cost 99 cents for a pack of two from Radio Shack, but only one is needed. The only other items required are shrink tubing, solder and soldering iron. That's it.

-njjoe

 

[jkoot]

Thanks njjoe,
Both headlights are in transit, cannot wait to get them installed!!

A question for anyone who feels like answering...
Has any put in a higher kalvin rated D2S bulb in there new lights instead of the stock 4300K? I was thinking of 6000K myself, very nice colour; your thoughts?

 

[jkoot]

Just recieved one of the headlights!!

I noticed that this one has a metal bracket on the bottom; when I looked at the pictures of the other Xenon headlight I ordered the brackets were not on it.

I checked a nissan factory diagram of the lighting units from courtesy nissan (courtesyparts.com) and the halogen units dont have this bracket either...

Is this metal bracket a requirement? All the tabs are in good shape, so is this for extra security?

JK

 

[njjoe]

Just recieved one of the headlights!!

I noticed that this one has a metal bracket on the bottom; when I looked at the pictures of the other Xenon headlight I ordered the brackets were not on it.

JK-

Both of mine also had the thin metal bracket. I left the bracket in place and did not use it.

-njjoe

 

[jkoot]

JK-

Both of mine also had the thin metal bracket. I left the bracket in place and did not use it.

-njjoe

Thanks njjoe!

Definetley do not need to spend more money than I have too! Wife is watching my every spendature on this project, haha.


On another note, whats everyones views on higher kalvin rated bulbs? I ordered 6000K D2S bulbs.

And did anyone buy an extra ballast for their lights? i"m going to drive down to the states at the end of the month 1000km both ways (GTA, Ontario to Ocean City Maryland), worried that I may blow a ballast and will be stuck with only one light.

 

[njjoe]

On another note, whats everyones views on higher kalvin rated bulbs? I ordered 6000K D2S bulbs.

And did anyone buy an extra ballast for their lights? i"m going to drive down to the states at the end of the month 1000km both ways (GTA, Ontario to Ocean City Maryland), worried that I may blow a ballast and will be stuck with only one light.

Why would you mess with the HIDs before seeing what the stock bulbs are capable of?? The stock bulbs were chosen for their ability to produce the maximum amount of usable light. Compared to the halogens the stock HIDs are nothing short of astounding. :4:

You're contemplating taking along an extra ballast? I think that's an excellent idea. You could but in the trailer alongside the extra CVT, water pump, fuel pump, belts, radiator, CV-joints, bearings, cats, manifolds,.... because in the unlikely event that the highly-reliable ballast fails it would be nearly impossible to find a replacement anywhere along the highly populated I-95 corridor.

Don't forget to check out M.R. Ducks while in OC. :29:

-njjoe

 

[jkoot]

hahahahaha!

Well, I got the set of 6000K (two pairs for $50) only becase one the headlights didnt come with one of the stock bulbs, and I love the colour output.

Yea its sad that im contemplating bring an extra ballast just in case, just worried about how the units were treated (or recovered from a Mo that met its untimely demise in an accident). Just dont want to avoid the glare from the wife when were driving down and a headlight fails.

Looked it up on google maps, gonna be a 10 hour drive so we are leaving at 2-3am so I would hate to get half way through the drive and a light flickers out....would make you wish you were driving a QX56 so the wife couldnt reach you from the passenger seat for a backhand and an "I told you so". haha

Hopefully I don't need to bring an extra CVT.....its already been replaced.....along with the wheel bearing, oil pan gasket and a whole new AWD system....
Because of what I just mentioned above, and the Mo now has 142000 on her, I'm going to be changing the spark plugs, coolant, oil change and belts before we go. Nissan offers this in the "144km Service Plan" but my dealer said that would cost me $570+13%tax (parts extra, belts included).
Also included in the service is a "look" at the CVT and replacing the transfer case oil, along with replacing an air filter or two and greasing the hinges.... Well I figured since the CVT and AWD system only have 50000km on them; my brother in law is a mechanic, we'll do it all ourselves when the grill and bumper is off for the headlight install.

Soooo......as you can see, I got ****ty luck with cars, which is dissapointing since I love them so much, just better safe than sorry, and at least if I had one on hand I wouldnt have to wait nor pay dealer prices.

I found an OEM unit on ebay for $60 including shipping. Might not just be a bad thing to have in the hidden trunk compartment beside my mini-tool kit and "travel kit" of polishing supplies. haha

On another note, what's M.R. Ducks??

 

[njjoe]

On another note, what's M.R. Ducks??

M.R. Ducks is a nice little outdoor bar under a gazebo on Talbot Street. When I lived in Bawlmer (Baltimore) and went "to the ocean" we always seemed to gravitate to M.R. Ducks. It is the least-touristy tourist bar in OC. :29:

Have a great vacation!

-njjoe

 

[jkoot]

Thanks njjoe!

Leaving in 3 weeks, will definetley need to check it out!

When I do the installation, I'll be posting some pics!

 

[Dondi]

Either of you upgrading a 2nd gen MO? I found a set of '10 HID assemblies and plan on attempting to upgrade my '09. Any new information on if this will work with a 2nd gen?

 

[jkoot]

Either of you upgrading a 2nd gen MO? I found a set of '10 HID assemblies and plan on attempting to upgrade my '09. Any new information on if this will work with a 2nd gen?

Dondi-

I believe that this modification has not yet been tried on the second generation Mo. The instructions created by MoInTO are specifically for the first gen and may not work for the second.

-jkoot