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The Window Rattle

6.4M views 512 replies 111 participants last post by  06murano  
#1 ·
Okay, I've dealt with this problem ever since I took ownership. I figured it might go away as the vehicle 'settled' and all the materials weathered, but noooo...

My driver and passenger windows (and very rarely the rear pass/driver) rattle. Or, more accurately, something is rattling against them and it resonates across the entire window surface. This sounds like a tapping or a creaking (but with a more rapid report, like a *tap!*) and happens in two situations:

Driver's side will tap when hitting a bump on the passenger side. Usually these are creases between sections of paved road. Sudden, quick, snappy bumps.

Passenger side will tap when hitting a similar bump on the driver side.

Both sides will tap if whatever causes the bump hits both sides of the car.

Also, occasionally tapping when the vehicle's weight shifts, like going around curves.

These only happen when the windows are fully up. These also happen MUCH more frequently if it is cold outside, often to the point where -any- bump will result in tap-tap-tap.

Given the topics on "the other Murano forum", people have had a variety of solutions for this. A variety of problems, I imagine. One dude took his door apart and tweaked something where the window rests. Frankly, I don't know what to do.

My MO is going in for 7500 service soon, and I will mention it to the techs. Again. The first time, they heard it on my initial drive, but then couldn't reproduce it (that old line) on subsequent test drives. They must've driven it around their nicely paved, smooth parking lot, because on any normal road, it'll do it. Often.

Mrf. :/
 
#378 ·
OK, I had an inspiration. Looking around this thread, I saw Newjack post Jan-04, I think it was page 16 of this thread. Here, he outlines in a photo the problem area. I tried the business card trick that some of you inserted in that groove. The sound changed from a tic to a groan. I did not much care for that so I figured the problem is friction. I took a spray can of white lithium grease and first shot it on a business card to lubricate the offending area. After sliding the card in the groove, I was not convinced that the card had enough grease to do the trick. I then just got the spray nozzle really close and shot the lithium into the groove.I sprayed not just the top at the corner but down the groove about 15 inches. I wiped off the excess and that's all I did.
Drove the car today and heard nothing. I am not ready to call this low-tech application a fix. Will it last, I don't know. What about the January heat wave of almost 70 degrees to hit this area? Many think it is weather realated, so I will wait for the weather to chill down before I report any fix. For now, at least today, the sound is gone.
Bob1
 
#379 ·
bob1,

how about posting some pics of the area you applied the grease to?

I think that what we hear is actually two pieces of materials "rubbing". It most likely is due to temperature related expansions/contractions. So the grease might be a solution. Keep the fingers crossed!
 
#380 ·
Kris, the area I shot with lithium is the area in newjack's photo on this thread on page 16. I think his is the 11th post on page 16.
Back up the thread and take a look-see. There at the top of the photo you will see the business card he inserted. I started at the top were the card is shown on page 16 and worked down about 12-15 inches. Sorry, at this time don't have a digital camera to snap this but I could not have outlined it any better than newjack.
Bob1
 
#381 ·
Thanks Bob, will check it out...
 
#382 ·
THANKS BOB1!!!

Bob - did what you described and the passenger door tic - tic -tic is GONE!! I didn't have white lithium grease on hand (need to buy a refill), but used some Honda All Purpose Lube that I had. Using the straw attachment to the nozzle, I sprayed all up and down the door between the liner and the metal. I wiped up the excess and left it alone. The next morning when I went to work the noise was gone - whew! Your theory made sense in that the tic definitely sounded like plastic rubbing or hitting something. I had previously fixed the driver's door using the felt method outlined on page 16 (?). That simply didn't work for the passenger side - but your fix did it - thanks!!

Of course, after that tic was gone, I heard some rattles in the back seat. Couldn't pin it down until this morning when I noticed the two rear seat belt buckles (rear right and center) were lying right next to each other with the center buckle out of its storage slot. I separated those two and lo and behold, that rattle was gone! Vibrations from the car must have been causing the buckles to hit each other. So for the first time in over six months, I had a rattle/tic free commute to work. I'm hoping these fixes last, but have a feeling that they should hold up.

Whoo HOO!
 
#384 ·
Re: THANKS BOB1!!!

Could you post a link to the fix?
There are too many entries here to find it.

Thanks


Jim C said:
Bob - did what you described and the passenger door tic - tic -tic is GONE!! I didn't have white lithium grease on hand (need to buy a refill), but used some Honda All Purpose Lube that I had. Using the straw attachment to the nozzle, I sprayed all up and down the door between the liner and the metal. I wiped up the excess and left it alone. The next morning when I went to work the noise was gone - whew! Your theory made sense in that the tic definitely sounded like plastic rubbing or hitting something. I had previously fixed the driver's door using the felt method outlined on page 16 (?). That simply didn't work for the passenger side - but your fix did it - thanks!!

Of course, after that tic was gone, I heard some rattles in the back seat. Couldn't pin it down until this morning when I noticed the two rear seat belt buckles (rear right and center) were lying right next to each other with the center buckle out of its storage slot. I separated those two and lo and behold, that rattle was gone! Vibrations from the car must have been causing the buckles to hit each other. So for the first time in over six months, I had a rattle/tic free commute to work. I'm hoping these fixes last, but have a feeling that they should hold up.

Whoo HOO!
 
#385 ·
Look UP on this page...;)
 
#387 ·
AH SHUCKS, thanks guys.

I can't believe this 15 second squirt of lithium grease was a fix. Now before we declare victory, lets see if it lasts.
I only developed the tic about a month ago while you guys had to live with it for months....or longer. It made me crazy but now its gone. I gotta get some credit to newjack and his photos on page 16. You fellow posters of 26 pages gave me the clues and I just had this wacky idea.

Bob1
 
#391 ·
Just to update. Has now been about a week and still reporting NO tic noise, just silence. I'm only posting to give this thread a bump and alert tic-plagued MO drivers to see my low tech solution of spraying some white lithium grease to area mentioned above in this thread. How about the rest of you? Jim C, is it still working for you? Anyone else care to report?
Bob1
:2:
 
#392 ·
What is "white lithium grease"?

Where can I get it? IN a spray can? Jelly like tube? Solid ? diluted?
Thanks

Just to update. Has now been about a week and still reporting NO tic noise, just silence. I'm only posting to give this thread a bump and alert tic-plagued MO drivers to see my low tech solution of spraying some white lithium grease to area mentioned above in this thread. How about the rest of you? Jim C, is it still working for you? Anyone else care to report?
Bob1
 
#393 ·
SugarRush, this stuff is yes in a spray can like WD-40. It should be at any auto supply store. If I am correct it's the same type that is used on the hood, trunk and door latch hinges. Anyway any auto store should have it. Just ask them. It's just a couple of bucks for a can.
Bob1
 
#394 ·
bob1 said:
SugarRush, this stuff is yes in a spray can like WD-40. It should be at any auto supply store. If I am correct it's the same type that is used on the hood, trunk and door latch hinges. Anyway any auto store should have it. Just ask them. It's just a couple of bucks for a can.
Bob1
Do you know if white lithium grease will harm any plastic over time? Is graphite lube any better/worse/same?
 
#395 ·
So what's the official solution???


And with the "business card" trick??? Do you have to remove the "B-pillar" (the one just to the left of your head? I can't make out the photos to see where the "business card" actually gets placed.


Anyone got a clear, detailed writeup. I just read this entire thread and I'm still lost. :eek:
 
#396 ·
Bob1 - my copy of your fix is still working. Its been several days and no return of the front passenger door tick. This weekend, I picked up a new can of white lithium grease and redid the shoot over the Honda All-Purpose Lube. Of course, now that the door tick is gone, and the rear seat belt rattles are address, I'm getting the A-pillar tick - AARRGGHH!! I'll tackle that one later this week - probably using the "loop" side of a piece of velcro mounted near the windshield where another lister noted the dash plastic hitting the windshield.

As for the other listers asking, white lithium grease is the stuff used on door latches, hood and trunk latches, etc. I've been using the stuff for years on my vehicles (car AND motorcycles). No problems with exposure to plastic that I have seen.

In order to apply it, I use the straw-like tube that comes with the spray can. I then use my hands to pull at the plastic trim along the door where it meets the metal and squirt in the WLG there with the straw. Start at the top where the business card gets inserted and spray down along the trim. In fact, you may want to insert a business card folded several times into that position as a wedge to allow you to spray more efficiently. Again, this is the trim on the door only. No need to address the B-Pillar, unless that's where your problems are located.

Good luck all and thanks again to Bob1.
 
#397 ·
Scrib said:
So what's the official solution???


And with the "business card" trick??? Do you have to remove the "B-pillar" (the one just to the left of your head? I can't make out the photos to see where the "business card" actually gets placed.


Anyone got a clear, detailed writeup. I just read this entire thread and I'm still lost. :eek:

And to mention, I'm having the popping problems coming from the door/B-pillar area...
 
#398 ·
Jim C said:
I'll tackle that one later this week - probably using the "loop" side of a piece of velcro mounted near the windshield where another lister noted the dash plastic hitting the windshield.

That was me and thus far its been quiet. I used a over sized piece of foam and pushed it in with my credit card. I would have use something like you suggested but I was affraid that it would prematurally stick prior to my desired insertion point. (OK no funny jokes about that one please....) :rolleyes:
 
#399 ·
Gonzo You are testing me. ;)
 
#400 ·
OK, here is the newjack photo reprint from page 16.
Check out the area with the white business card.
I started to spray the grease at the top where the card is shown in the photo below. I continued spraying the grease and went down the door about 15 inches. I did not remove any parts. I first coated a business card with the grease and slid it up and down but figured it was not enough. I then, like JimC just shot the stuff into the groove and wiped the excess. The whole thing took 2 minutes. Scrib, does this post help?
Bob1
 

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#401 ·
bob1 said:
OK, here is the newjack photo reprint from page 16.
Check out the area with the white business card.
I started to spray the grease at the top where the card is shown in the photo below. I continued spraying the grease and went down the door about 15 inches. I did not remove any parts. I first coated a business card with the grease and slid it up and down but figured it was not enough. I then, like JimC just shot the stuff into the groove and wiped the excess. The whole thing took 2 minutes. Scrib, does this post help?
Bob1
OK, cool. I see what you did. It was a CRAZY day at work. Wasn't thinking things through. I clearly see what's going on.

Do you think there's a way to hide the card; i.e. is it necessary to have that much exposed? I wonder if by separating things but HIDING the card or whatver.... It'd look better, but still function the same.

Unfortunately, I still have about 3 hours of work to complete this evening. I'll tackle this tomorrow or Wednesday.

Thanks!