[DreamCar5683]

Thanks for the video.
Today i used the service functions on cvtz50 to inspect the issue...
In the engine menu there's a option to turn VIAS valve 1 and 2 on and off ( same thing when u put your foot on pedal to raise RPM up above 3600)
I discinnected the hose from power valve acuator and when i tried VIAS on/off the vaccume is working. Problem is acuator... The vacume can pull back the acuator to close the butterfyback... But when ECM sends OFF signal even though the theres no more air sucking in from the hose... But power valve acuator doesnt go back to its place.
i read the service manual it says "Repair or replace power valve actuator" ...
View attachment 55838

I looked onlike for the part...
its expensive around $200...
View attachment 55839

So i was wondering since the Service manual says "repair or.."
Is it repairable ?
thanks

I would try to get a used, but working, part. I think I have one (because I have a whole spare intake manifold and throttle body) if you can’t find one.

 

[Cryogenix1]

I would try to get a used, but working, part. I think I have one (because I have a whole spare intake manifold and throttle body) if you can’t find one.

Unfortunately, most auto salvage yards won't let you take anything from a working engine, or any support components from a primary part of a non-working engine. In this case, I highly doubt they'd allow you to grab the power valve and leave the manifold. I'm sure you could buy the vacuum tank or solenoid, though. But it never hurts to ask. Maybe just go there with tools, remove the power valve and then return to the front and ask "how much?" Doesn't hurt to try.

I'd offer up mine, but it's got 300,000+ miles and the retaining clip broke and epoxy is holding it on.

 

[sistermoon2500]

I would try to get a used, but working, part. I think I have one (because I have a whole spare intake manifold and throttle body) if you can’t find one.

Thx i will send u a DM if i couldnt find a used one locally...

 

[sistermoon2500]

Unfortunately, most auto salvage yards won't let you take anything from a working engine, or any support components from a non-working engine. In this case, I highly doubt they'd allow you to grab the power valve and leave the manifold. But it never hurts to ask. Maybe just go there with tools, remove the power valve and then return to the front and ask "how much?" Doesn't hurt to try.

I'd offer up mine, but it's got 300,000+ miles and the retaining clip broke and epoxy is holding it on.

Thanks for the tip and offer...
Speaking of which... You say you drove yur car for 300k miles...
Mine has only 100k on it...
Are there anyway maybe to check if the mileage was manipulated ( pulled back)?
@vovexe

 

[Cryogenix1]

I'm the orignal owner and the mileage is correct. But if you read some of my older posts, you'll see that I burned through seven CVTs...

 

[DreamCar5683]

I'm the orignal owner and the mileage is correct. But if you read some of my older posts, you'll see that I burned through seven CVTs...

I think maybe they’re asking if their odometer was rolled back. Not yours.

 

[sistermoon2500]

I think maybe they’re asking if their odometer was rolled back. Not yours. View attachment 55841

Yep i was curious to see if theres any app could tell if mileage was manipulated somehow. I know on BMWs its doable easily. with Carly

 

[Cryogenix1]

I think maybe they’re asking if their odometer was rolled back. Not yours.

I knew I was correct the second time I read it and then deleted my post and inserted "whoops"... Then I re-read it and again and thought he was hoping the mileage/wear on my power valve wasn't that much, and that perhaps someone had altered it during various resales. Now I see the "@vovexe" and it makes sense..

 

[vovexe]

Are there anyway maybe to check if the mileage was manipulated ( pulled back)?
@vovexe

Nissan doesn't care about recording mileage in control units, but there is one thing allowing very rough estimation. TCM has "Engine Run Hours" counter (visible in "CVT Information") which may help if you can know lifetime average speed (in Europe it is often somewhere around 15-30 km/h in case of mixed city-highway use). So each 1000h means 15000-30000km. If you see 9000h and odometer says 100000km then most likely something is wrong.

 

[sistermoon2500]

Nissan doesn't care about recording mileage in control units, but there is one thing allowing very rough estimation. TCM has "Engine Run Hours" counter (visible in "CVT Information") which may help if you can know lifetime average speed (in Europe it is often somewhere around 15-30 km/h in case of mixed city-highway use). So each 1000h means 15000-30000km. If you see 9000h and odometer says 100000km then most likely something is wrong.

Thanks for the great Tip!!
i checked mine. Says 10990 Hours... My odometers shows 222000 KM. ( 138000 miles)
Does it match? average speed here with this traffic lets say 50kmph or sometimes less.

 

[sistermoon2500]

I would try to get a used, but working, part. I think I have one (because I have a whole spare intake manifold and throttle body) if you can’t find one.

I was able to find a used one for $50 was clean. i took the car to a mechanic to install it....
Unfortunately same issue. so looks like mine was working already.
Here is my case. when i raise Engine RPM the vacuum pump starts sucking air in and therfor closes the power valve actuator, but when engine RPM goes back down the power valve actuator wont go back forward ( to open the butterfly valve ) It will only release it when i pull out the hose from power valve.
So the mechanic guy wasnt sure what was the issue, Either vacuum pump or the solenoid.
so Id appreciate some input about what could be the possible cause.
My main question is the vacuum pump supposed to push air out too? either into the power vlave or somewhere else so the butterfly valve could be released back into its place...
By cacuum tank i mean this one, is it supposed to let air go out too? if so where does it deflate the air?

@I need coffee @Cryogenix1 @MuranoSL2003 thanks all for the help

 

[Cryogenix1]

Have you checked the small hoses in case some were accidentally switched around? Perhaps that could explain the reversed (or one-way) behavior.

 

[sistermoon2500]

Have you tried reversing the two small hoses in case they were accidentally reversed? Perhaps that could explain the reversed behavior of the power valve. I seem to recall one hose being longer than the other, but perhaps it they were replaced at some point both are now long enough to be switched around.

i think only way that vacuum exists in hose going to power valve is the only set up possible. swapping hoses will stop the vacuum existence in the hose going to power valve...
According to MANUAL ( page 658 ) it says if vacuum exists in the hose when theres voltage ( i use cvtz50 app VIAS active test instead of consult 2) change or replace power valve actuator. in mine vacuum exists when i turn VIAS active teston. and when i turn it off vacuume stops. but when it stops the vacuum the power valve wont go back to its place. or maybe we dont know whats is teh delay for the actuator to close/open again when theres no more vacuum existence! ?
COuld u please read a few pages in the manual i linked to see maybe you understand better?
Id appreciate this. thx

i will try to record a video of it. to give a better picture of my issue

 

[Cryogenix1]

My main question is the vacuum pump supposed to push air out too? either into the power vlave or somewhere else so the butterfly valve could be released back into its place...
By power valve i mean this one

That's the vacuum tank. When the solenoid does its job, it allows the vacuum tank to PULL the power valve arm back. When the solenoid decides it's done, it prevents the tank from drawing the power valve arm back, and the arm releases forward to its home position.

 

[sistermoon2500]

Have you checked the small hoses in case some were accidentally switched around? Perhaps that could explain the reversed (or one-way) behavior.

I took a little video of my 2003 power valve and the hose configuration for the VIAS system. Mine was working correctly before I retired the car. I manipulated the power valve bracket a few times so you can get an idea if yours is moving in the same manner.

Wow thank you for the vid... did u just rcord it? I wih u could record it with u moving it with hand. like either doing it with cvtz50 app or just push the gas pedal to raise the rpm over 3000 to see after it opens would it go back to its previus state?
Thanks again.
and sorry i had a typo. By power valve i meant vacuume tank* is it supposed to blow air too somewhere? it cant keep sucking in

 

[Pilgrim]

By definition, a vacuum tank holds vacuum so that vacuum can be used to carry out certain operations. Usually it's used to run HVAC doors for heating and cooling.

The tank is connected to a source of vacuum, and there's a one-way valve in the line to prevent the tank losing its reservoir of vacuum.

 

[sistermoon2500]

By definition, a vacuum tank holds vacuum so that vacuum can be used to carry out certain operations. Usually it's used to run HVAC doors for heating and cooling.

The tank is connected to a source of vacuum, and there's a one-way valve in the line to prevent the tank losing its reservoir of vacuum.

So when theres no vacuume existence in the hose the powervalve actuator must go forward... right? mine pulls it backward when theres vacuume but when vacuum stops, it wont let the power valve go forward

 

[Cryogenix1]

So when theres no vacuume existence in the hose the powervalve actuator must go forward... right? mine pulls it backward when theres vacuume but when vacuum stops, it wont let the power valve go forward

You now have two poiwer valves that are behaving the same (wrong) way, and although both are used and it's possible they're both broken, let's assume the chances of that are slim. Since the arm is pulling back, that means you have vacuum, so the tank is fine. That would leave either a problem with the solenoid or the hoses. I think I need coffee said the solenoid is either on or off. Maybe the "on" part is working to allow the vacuum to occur, but the "off" part isn't blocking off the vacuum completely or quickly (or at all) which might suggest the solenoid is bad. Or, that a hose is clogged or pinched that's preventing the vacuum from releasing, so the arm is staying in the retracted position. I wonder if that large, black plastic cap on the solenoid is a relief valve to purge any trapped vacuum in the line to ensure the power valve returns to its forward home position quickly. I wonder if that cap is stuck or gunked up and can't allow that venting to happen (if that's what it's for)....

BTW, my battery is dead and the car is wildlife-proofed for the winter, so I can't help you with starting it and using the CVTz50 app.

 

[Pilgrim]

So when theres no vacuume existence in the hose the powervalve actuator must go forward... right? mine pulls it backward when theres vacuume but when vacuum stops, it wont let the power valve go forward

I can't tell you. What I can say is that the valve should operate as normal. If it's not, either the valve or the vacuum source is likely the problem.

 

[sistermoon2500]

You now have two poiwer valves that are behaving the same (wrong) way, and although both are used and it's possible they're both broken, let's assume the chances of that are slim. Since the arm is pulling back, that means you have vacuum, so the tank is fine. That would leave either a problem with the solenoid or the hoses. I think I need coffee said the solenoid is either on or off. Maybe the "on" part is working to allow the vacuum to occur, but the "off" part isn't blocking off the vacuum completely or quickly (or at all) which might suggest the solenoid is bad. Or, that a hose is clogged or pinched that's preventing the vacuum from releasing, so the arm is staying in the retracted position. I wonder if that large, black plastic cap on the solenoid is a relief valve to purge any trapped vacuum in the line to ensure the power valve returns to its forward home position quickly. I wonder if that cap is stuck or gunked up and can't allow that venting to happen (if that's what it's for)....

BTW, my battery is dead and the car is wildlife-proofed for the winter, so I can't help you with starting it and using the CVTz50 app.

Thanks
About that black plastic cover ... according to manual thats called passage C. when theres no vacuume existence in power valve hose. theres vacuum in passage C. i tested it. but its short lived... Like when the VIAS signal is on and you place your finger on passage c metal pipe and u turn off VIAS, it will suck in your finger. I wonder why is it capped with a cover?!
And here is a vid and pic

And teh video of the issue im facing...

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