[Cryogenix1]

If the picture in your above post is of your engine, your hoses are wrong. Watch the end of my video to see how they connect. The power valve hose should go to the center connection on the vacuum tank. Yours is going to the outer connection on that tank. The inside solenoid connection hose should go to the outside connection of the vacuum tank, etc. Check your configuration against mine...

 

[sistermoon2500]

If the picture in your above post is of your engine, your hoses are wrong. Watch the end of my video to see how they connect. The power valve hose should go to the center connection on the vacuum tank. Yours is going to the outer connection on that tank. The inside solenoid connection hose should go to the outside connection of the vacuum tank, etc. Check your configuration against mine...

I just noticed it... but i also saw another variation in this video u posted before too!

in that vid the hose from manifold goes directly to the vacuum tank
Imma go test both
Thanks again wil come back with updates

 

[Cryogenix1]

But I think in that video the guy was trroubleshooting and showing how things work and don't work. I think he may have achieved that by moving around hoses. Either that, or my 2003 config has been wrong all these years. Or, maybe models after mine had a vacuum tank or solenoid that worked differently. Strange. I don't see anywhere in this video where he changes anything around to match my configuration. Interesting...

EDIT: Very strange. In Googling pics of other NIssan VIAS systems, I don't see any with my hose configuration, but most engine views don't show all the connections clearly or at all. I know I've never switched the hoses, and always marked them before taking them off. And my car always had great power and nice idling and great gas mileage. I'm at a loss...

EDIT #2: It looks like mine is wrong. Perhaps my configuration has been "static" all these years. The engine was last taken out (partially disassembled) in 2010 after a major accident to replace the CVT and other parts . The car ran awesomely afterwards and ever since. Perhaps the config got hooked up wrong in a way that neither helped nor hurt the way the engine performed. Crazy... That is, unless the mechanic who last worked on my car in 2020 to replace the fuel pump fooled around with those hoses and changed things...and broke that retaining clip at the same time. I did start to have more issues after that fuel pumped was replaced, but the car still seemed to run very well overall.

 

[sistermoon2500]

But I think in that video the guy was trroubleshooting and showing how things work and don't work. I think he may have achieved that by moving around hoses. Either that, or my 2003 config has been wrong all these years. Or, maybe models after mine had a vacuum tank or solenoid that worked differently. Strange. I don't see anywhere in this video where he changes anything around to match my configuration. Interesting...

EDIT: Very strange. In Googling pics of other NIssan VIAS systems, I don't see any with my hose configuration, but most engine views don't show all the connections clearly or at all. I know I've never switched the hoses, and always marked them before taking them off. And my car always had great power and nice idling and great gas mileage. I'm at a loss...

EDIT #2: It looks like mine is wrong. Perhaps my configuration has been "static" all these years. The engine was last taken out (disassembled after a major accident to replace the CVT and other parts) in 2010. The car ran awesomely afterwards and ever since. Perhaps the config got hooked up wrong in a way that neither helped nor hurt the way the engine performed. Crazy... Unless the mechanic who last worked on my car in 2020 to replace the fuel pump fooled around with those hoses and changed things. I did start to have more issues after that happened, but the car still seemed to run very well overall.

I guess stay with your configuration.

Fixed!!!
And yes yours was wrong too
For this guy's video was the correct way.
This should be the way...
From manifold ---> vacuum tank in----> vacuum tank out ----> Solonoid VIAS B ----> Solonoind VIAS A------> Power valve actuator
So one little mistake makes all these hassles. I replaced Power valve for nothing. but it was worth the experience and learning!
Thanks everyone for inputs

 

[I need coffee]

Butterfly valves are typically held in a resting position by a spring and then some force (vacuum, electric motor, etc) overcomes the spring tension to position the valve plate in the desired position and then when the force is removed the spring should return it back to the resting position. If the valve does actuate, but gets stuck in the retracted position does it return to the normal position if the vacuum line to the valve is disconnected?

BTW, here's an exploded diagram of the intake plenum from an OEM supplier.

EDIT: Posted the same time as when you reported the fix. Sounds like the lines being connected wrong didn't allow for vacuum to be released when the solenoid was turned off. Good job with figuring it out!

 

[Cryogenix1]

Glad you were able to figure it out. Since the part you bought isn't electrical you probably could return it, or at least see if you can get a credit towards something else you might need.

 

[ladkii]

I think he's trying to determine what position the butterfly is at in his photo. I assumed the butterfly was always closed until a vacuum or pressure was created to puill/push the arm to make the butterfly open as the engine produced more horsepower upon demand. But I've never really looked into it.
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attwifimanager

 

[sistermoon2500]

@vovexe
something i noticed wanted to share with you to see if its normal or can be adjusted with CVTz50 app..
On manual says the butterfly valve closes when engine RPM goes about 3500. I noticed mine closes at 2000. ( tested when idle )
Could this be a malfunction or could it be reset or maybe modified with the app?
Thank you

 

[vovexe]

On manual says the butterfly valve closes when engine RPM goes about 3500. I noticed mine closes at 2000. ( tested when idle )
Could this be a malfunction or could it be reset or maybe modified with the app?

No, ECU does not have any adjustments here.

FSM says valve position also depends on other factors like overall engine load - so likely closure RPM designed to be different in different scenarios like idling, cruising, climbing.