EricL

It was very good of you to take the time to make the pictures and all the posts, Excellent service to the forum.

Few Questions.

1. Will you make it a sticky?
2. How is the braking now that time has been passed and things are settled down.
3. Do you have any Squealing?
4. Would you do it again.
5. Harder or easier braking?
6. Cost vs Going to quality brake shop. ( I konw they would still not be as good as your job)
7. Time required to do the complete job without pictures.

 

Re: EricL

Answers to the Grip's questions!


1. Will you make it a sticky? it already is
2. How is the braking now that time has been passed and things are settled down. after bedding in the pads initially, braking is fantastic - good bite when cold, practically impossible to fade when hot
3. Do you have any Squealing? no
4. Would you do it again.yes
5. Harder or easier braking? depends what you mean by harder or easier - with the flush over to ATE super blue, the pedal is firmer and braking is more direct and immediate - however a firmer pedal also requires more force to step on to get the same braking effect, but I wouldn't say its much more - if anything, brake feel is far superior and I've even stopped embarassingly short of the crosswalk lines before I got used to the new setup - its hard to describe the difference in feel of a semirace pad like the Porterfield R4S vs normal street pads
6. Cost vs Going to quality brake shop. ( I konw they would still not be as good as your job) i did what any good shop would do, so I think the results would be the same whether you did it yourself or had a professional work on it - its hard to mess up brake pads - the main thing I notice is that most shops do not bother to use the anti-squeal goo, and you'll end up with noisy brakes 1000 miles into the new pads
7. Time required to do the complete job without pictures. [/B][/QUOTE] for the novice home wrencher, I would say give 1-2 hours per axle, if they've never worked on brakes before; if you do this enough, you can probably do all four corners in half the time

 

It took me 2 hours to do all four as well as adjust the parking brakes on both sides. Add to that, 20 minutes to open the service manual and review Nissan's instructions to ensure I didn't overlook anything and if you really want to be picky, add to that, the time to go get the pads, etc.

I didn't bleed the brakes, as there was no need for it on mine. If you're not sure, doesn't hurt to do it. It's a judgement based on the vehicle's age, mileage and useage.

 

Eric

I am not sure if it was mentioned in any of the subsequent posts, but as a safety measure, whenever you are doing any work on the brakes, it is a good idea to wear a mask (paper mask should be good enough) to keep brake dust from being inhaled.

 

Eric

I am not sure if it was mentioned in any of the subsequent posts, but as a safety measure, whenever you are doing any work on the brakes, it is a good idea to wear a mask (paper mask should be good enough) to keep brake dust from being inhaled.

Yes. Thats why I also used plenty of brake parts cleaner. By soaking the brake components, it prevents the dust from getting airborne. There wasn't much dust to begin with, since the stock pads hardly dust at all.

 

42.5K miles so I decided to check my brake pads:
Front - appr 5 mm left.
Rear - appr 4 mm left.

Nissan recommends replacement at <2.5 mm. So I guess I have at least 20k miles left. maybe less for rear.

 

one more thought

Folks,

I'm not sure if it would still apply with the Mo, but after doing disc brakes.. pump the pedal until all the calipers are refilled. If they were compressed a bunch they need to refill before they push on the pads.

A long time ago.. in about '77 a friend and I did a lot of mechanical and body work to put ourselves through college. We were doing brakes on a stunning '76 Riviera, 455 engine, bi-centenial paint, boattail trunk and all. We each took a side and did the front and rear brakes in good time. It was cold and we were working in his heated garage. Now its time to open the door, get the car out and the next one in before we loose all our heat. I hop in, fire it up. The door opens and I throw it in reverse... only to see another car about 20 feet away. I hit the brakes... they go to the floor. I pump again... to the floor. Pump, pump, pump, pump, pump ...pedal finally, whew. I stopped about 3 feet from the other car.

Pump up your brakes. Great post Eric!

Chuck

 

Oh yes by all means, its a good idea to pump the brakes after you finish the brake job, and make sure the new brakes stop the car!

However the key word is finish. If you step on the brakes while the caliper is swung open, you'll shoot that piston out of the assembly and then it will be a real disaster.

 

One more important point:

Read the instruction Eric L provided before attempting to work on brakes. And I do mean read, from the beginning to the end...

 

Eric
Outstanding procedure and with pictures, there are still things that we can repair on these new cars.:29: :29:

 

Eric,
I'm new to your org. I've been doing basic maintenance for quite some time. Thanks for the detailed post. I'm going to try replacing the rear brake pads very soon. Question though, what is the opinion on turning the rotors? Most shops will recommend that service. When you did your bakes, did you have the rotors turned? If not, did the squeal afterwards or not?
Thanks and the pictures were great!

 

Eric,
I'm new to your org. I've been doing basic maintenance for quite some time. Thanks for the detailed post. I'm going to try replacing the rear brake pads very soon. Question though, what is the opinion on turning the rotors? Most shops will recommend that service. When you did your bakes, did you have the rotors turned? If not, did the squeal afterwards or not?
Thanks and the pictures were great!

If you are getting a vibration when braking, then its a good idea to have rotors turned. Otherwise, it is probably not necessary. I did not turn my rotors.

No squealing afterwards (use the red goo, guaranteed no squealing!).

 

Pinspector,
I did my rear brakes at 50k, now I have 64K. I did not turn the rotors. No problems so far.

I also did the FX at 30k - both front and rear. Now it has 40k. No problems with brakes whatsoever...

 

My rule of thumb is to forgo turning the rotors as long as the pads have not worn through. If the pads are gone and you are experiencing metal-to-metal contact then you must turn the rotors.

-njjoe

 

It would be very unusual for me to turn rotors these days.
MOST brake shops do NOT turn rotors any more as long as they show only normal wear. At least the two shops that I do business with are that way.

A few ridge lines are normal. In point of fact, once pads have seated, ridged rotors are better than ultra smooth rotors.

Now if there are severe ridges............you might want to consider replacing the rotors as turning Rotors too much can end up with warped rotors. I think the Murano Rotors are especially susceptible to this.

Homer

 

New Brakes not needed

Eric,

I saw your post and decided to go ahead and do the rear brakes on my 04 MO. So I bought Akebono OEM Ceramic pads, got the anti-squeal goop and was ready to do. To cut to the chase, I pulled the wheels, then pulled the pin and the caliper hinged down. I pulled the outside pad gently off and frowned deeply. I then picked up the new pad and held them next to each other and there was hardly any difference. So, I gently put everything back together (old pad) and test drove the car. Same braking as before. I thought for sure I was ready for new pads on the back, but apparently not!
Now, in all fairness, I have 42,000 miles. This includes 4 R/T to Florida (2600 mi R/T) and at least 10 trips to North Carolina (1200 mi R/T). My OEM Goodyears still have 8/32 of tread.
I plan to hold on to the Akebono's since I know I will use them at some time...just not sure when!

Thanks!
Pinspector

 

Thanks for the post and pics OP, very useful.
I replaced my rear brakes about a year ago at about 55K kms. I now have 88K on the fronts, time to do them( I drive lots in the city, stop and go). I used ceramic on the back and will do the same on the front, no noise, no noticeable dust and stops just fine.
My rule of thumb, gained over 30 years as an amateur and pro mechanic - is to turn rotors always, unless they are obviously warped or appear discoloured from heat, then they should be replaced. The cost is minimal, and I have absolutely no desire to diassemble again, do the work I should have done the first time, and likely put yet another set of brake pads on the freshly turned rotors.
Just my $.02.

 

BRAKES

Just thought i would add a few tips-

I had noticed some metal to metal noise comming from my front wheels so I tore it down and noticed my inside pad wear indicator was making contact with the rotor-funny thing was the outside pad had 1/4 of material left-
closer inspection revealed the inside pad had frozen up in the holder bracket and caused the uneven wear.

to prevent this from occuring it may be nessasary to file the ears of the brake pad so it sits in the holder with slight friction .
also use grease on the ears so they move freely in the caliper chassis.

I only had to file the inside pads ears on both ft. brake assembles.
The outside pads fit perfect.
Good luck!

 

.

 

Eric, great post. Did my first brake job today. Got brave after seeing your post. Changed the rear pads (fronts were covered under warranty due to warped rotors) and did the full brake fluid flush (in order per the SM). I took my time and everything went well. Used lots of brake cleaner and a mask for good measure. Burnished the ceramic pads per manufacturer instructions. Went el cheapo on the brake fluid. Got 4 12 Oz bottles of DOT3 fluid on sale from Checker Auto for $0.89 each. Using clear vinyl tubing, I could see when the fresh fluid was coming through because it went from a light golden color to clear. (And then I pushed more through for insurance...) Did it the old fashioned way with the brake pedal. I put a mirror on a box and set it in the engine bay so I could watch the fluid level drop and stop before I introduced air into the line. All-in-all, one of the most satistifying DIY jobs I've ever done. Thanks again! :6:

 

Eric, great post. Did my first brake job today. Got brave after seeing your post. Changed the rear pads (fronts were covered under warranty due to warped rotors) and did the full brake fluid flush (in order per the SM). I took my time and everything went well. Used lots of brake cleaner and a mask for good measure. Burnished the ceramic pads per manufacturer instructions. Went el cheapo on the brake fluid. Got 4 12 Oz bottles of DOT3 fluid on sale from Checker Auto for $0.89 each. Using clear vinyl tubing, I could see when the fresh fluid was coming through because it went from a light golden color to clear. (And then I pushed more through for insurance...) Did it the old fashioned way with the brake pedal. I put a mirror on a box and set it in the engine bay so I could watch the fluid level drop and stop before I introduced air into the line. All-in-all, one of the most satistifying DIY jobs I've ever done. Thanks again! :6:

No need to thank me - I am just happy people can save a few bones doing their own vehicle maintenance. You really learn to appreciate your car a lot more when you do all the work yourself.

 

No need to thank me - I am just happy people can save a few bones doing their own vehicle maintenance. You really learn to appreciate your car a lot more when you do all the work yourself.

Absolutely. As you can see by my other posts in the maintenance forum, besides brakes, I've changed the CVT fluid and did the coolant flush/fill in the last week. Also did cabin air filter and engine air filter. (Proper engine oil and filter changes being done as well of course...) Got the transfer case oil change next on my list. Through Nissanmurano.org and its members, I think we're all collectively showing that we can still work on our vehicles (and save some serious money to boot).

 

Thank you Eric for the clear instructions.

Try to do the brakes just want to know how to check whether the piston on the caliper is working fine, and the rubber boots.

 

I apologize if I missed the information, but what are the torque specs on the caliper bolts?

I'm new here, mostly seeking good advice and DIYs on maintenance.
Murano belongs to the wife, and I was shocked to receive a 60k mile service quote of 599.99 (+90.00 for CVT).

I do a great deal of work on my car, VW 2003 W8, mostly to save money on labor but also as a hobby.

CVT fluid change real soon, followed by brakes, etc.

Very happy to have found this forum!

Stewart

 

I apologize if I missed the information, but what are the torque specs on the caliper bolts?

I'm new here, mostly seeking good advice and DIYs on maintenance.
Murano belongs to the wife, and I was shocked to receive a 60k mile service quote of 599.99 (+90.00 for CVT).

I do a great deal of work on my car, VW 2003 W8, mostly to save money on labor but also as a hobby.

CVT fluid change real soon, followed by brakes, etc.

Very happy to have found this forum!

Stewart

Hi Stewart welcome to the forum.

The specs are 17-21 lb/ft.